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No offense taken Joe. I meant that in the context of how well it fit and required nothing but just bolt it in. And in the world of aftermarket parts that's kind of a rarity. I got some stuff off trucks in the junk yard like you kind of preach.. but I also like some nicer, upgraded parts in cars and trucks I build as well. So where some ppl would go search junk yard for their yr truck and get everything they can off of it for hopefully cheap prices I would rather get brand new parts if I have the option in some areas of my builds. Just an example of different ways to get the job done I guess.
This radiator is really well done for $300 btw! A lot of buddies have real high end radiators that cost upwards of $600 so I didn't have a problem paying 289 for mine and the caliber truck I'm building here I wouldn't do any less...
I appreciate your point of view and the tutorial kind of comments you contribute on this forum! I have used your instructions and suggestions on some areas of my build for sure. Have good night everybody!
I've been considering a radiator upgrade and have been reading up on aluminum radiators. Most antifreeze makers advertise that their products are safe for aluminum, and I have read that distilled water is important for corrosion resistance.
The dissimilar metals (iron block, aluminum radiator) allows electrolysis, which some counteract with a sacrificial anode (in the cap, at the petcock, etc). Sounds reasonable to me, though I haven't got firsthand experience.
Steve, that's what I was getting at. It may be the latest and greatest coolants spec'd for OEM vehicles are a result of that, because aluminum has taken over in the last few decades. Maybe the type of inhibitors and/or the amount are different not sure on that.
Yes, the aluminum radiators are nice but definitely require extra attention! They are not forgiving of any shortcuts! First, make sure your block/heater core is completely flushed of rust or other debris. When you install the radiator, you must attach a ground wire from radiator to chassis to help prevent electrolosis. The green coolant is fine but only use distilled water for any additional filling!! You must also flush & change coolant yearly, if it lasts that long.
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