I have a fire wrench and an impact screw driver. Can't seem to get in behind to get any PB blaster on the inside of the screws. Well I could shoot in the dark , but I can't really see the screws. What is the answer to this puzzel? Thanks to all that respond.

 

Some are worse than others. I've even seen some that have had a spot weld on the heads of the screws.
Whats worked best for me is to hit them with some PB Blaster or equivalent, even if you have to shoot in the dark. Then use and impact driver but make sure you have the correct sized Phillips bit and its in good shape. The better the bit fits the screws, the better your chances are


Bobby

 

drill and tap ... or just leave them alone and take the hinge pin out

 

My last experience with hinge pin removal has to be far worse than the screws. I have a new #3 bit, don't know if that is big enough or not. I'll try some blaster and maybe soak it even if I can't see it. I didn't think anyone had any easy answer but I thought I'd give it a try. Thanks for the help.
I might try a mirror and stand on my head with my tounge stuck out of the right side of my mouth.

 

I can't recall if its a #3 or a #4. Whichever one it is, again, make sure you have the correct one. It does make a difference.


I have had a drill a couple out. If you do have to drill them out, a left handed drill bit could help the situation a bit.


Bobby

 

I've probably removed at least a dozen set of doors, I've given up on trying to save the bolts. I heat them with a torch and turn them out with a good hardened tip Phillips screwdriver. After I'm done the screwdriver isn't usually too good. If they round off I'll drill them our and retap the backing plate. Remember, the threads are 5/16"-24. Finding original replacement Phillips flatheads are hard to find. I bought some many years ago from John's Funhundreds, I think out in California. Maybe now someone is reproducing them.

 

I've had pretty good luck using my air impact with the driver/adapter thingy. Turn the air way down and rattle em out. Sometimes they twist off though. Use the correct bit as said above....

 

I have done these by heating the bolt to expand it then throwing water on it to cool it down quickly. The heat on the bolt squeezes the rust as it expands then the water contracts it a little smaller than it was to come out.

 

As described above, heat and quench with water. I normally quench with PB blaster.

I also ran into the same issue on a door striker on my 1969 Mustang. I went out and bought a manual impact screwdriver tool.

It looks like a round cylinder with a bit holder. (Make sure you are using the correct bit) and squarely plant the bit in the screw head. Strike the tool with a hammer. In the tool there is a mechanism that rotates the bit when you hit the back end with a hammer. Its by far the best way to take screws out. Its better than the impact wrench because it s Very slow and controlled

 

One trick to get extra gription on phillips head screws, get the screwdriver bit wet and then dip it generously into some old school gritty Comet cleanser.

 

http://www.pensacolahardware.com/pro...0220_ICON.jpeg

 

I'm just about to let sleepings dogs lie and work on these doors with them on the truck. I do have an alignment issue on the bottom rear of the passenger side. The bottom rear hits the cab when shut, I only need mabey 1/8 inch to make it clear , so I'm working on that now. Thanks to all who responded.

 

I used a hammer activated impact and was able to get out half of the screws on mine. The other half all broke off. I took the backing plates out and drilled and tapped them. I found grade 8 allen head 5/16" x 24 flat head bolts that worked perfectly at Coastal Fasteners here in Houston.

 

Messing with the hinges might not be what you need. Jolly Roger Joe just posted the door adjustment instructions from the service manual in this thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html


Maybe you can find what you need there


Bobby

 

The door hinge screws extend past the nut plate in the door post. Over the years the exposed threads build up with a coating of rust. Trying to force the screws out you are forcing the thicker threads through the nut plate probably damaging the threads in the nut plate. I have done a ton of these and do it this way... Take a 3/8 drill bit and drill the heads off the screws. Once the heads are off take a punch and hit one of the outer screw stubs forcing the nut plate inward till all the screw stubs clear the hinge and you can remove the door. Continue to tap one of the outer screw stubs until you can reach in behind and remove the nut plate from the door post. A strap of sheetmetal holds the nut plate in place and is easily bent to remove the nut plate and bend back later. The nut plate is a triangle shaped piece. Now that the nut plate is out grind the remaining screw heads flush with the plate and using vise grips remove the screw from the back. If rusted stuck heat just the screw red hot wait till cool and should easily twist out. Hope this makes sense but this method saves a lot of effort and prevents damage to the nut plate.