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'77 wont start the second time

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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 04:45 AM
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'77 wont start the second time

I have a '77 F150 w/351 M that has just been through a bit of restoration. She fires right up, even during cold weather, but if I drive her from the shop to the house (about 50 yds), she won't fire back up for 30 min to a couple of hours. Will crank, but that's it. I'm getting gas to carb and put in a clear fuel filter below carb to keep eye on it...and I'm getting spark at coil. Won't fire on ether I can let her run for 15 min parked in shop, turn her off, and she'll fire right up, but if I drive for even a short distance, she won't fire (might just be coincidence). I have checked the sending unit, I have a tank w/out emissions evap line, have gas cap that vents..at a loss for what to do next. In 50 degree daily temps, I didn't figure anything could get warm enough to give me trouble in that direction (vapor lock, hot fuel line, hot wire, etc). Distributor maybe? Magnetic pickup in distributor? HEEELLLPPPP!!!
 
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 06:50 AM
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During warm up while watching the choke open what does that look like ? Does it fully open ? Is the choke hooked up properly ?
What is the condition of the distributor cap ? If you have a spare known good distributor cap test put it in to test ? A cracked cap can have these symptoms ..
Take out the spark box and take it down to AutoZone and have it tested for free to eliminate that as possible issue ..
Is the EGR plate still on the vehicle ? If it is pull it and clean it and make sure the valve is functioning properly ..
How much vacuum does the motor pull at idle ? do you pull a constant reading or does the needle fluctuate ?
Post back with any questions or progress ..
 
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 02:17 PM
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Had a similar problem. Would run then shut off while driving. Wouldn't restart for a few minutes. I changed the points capacitor. Problem solved. Weird, may fix it may not but it's only $5 to try if your still running points.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 06:22 PM
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Thanks for the pointers! I'm about ready to head up to the shop and switch dist caps. Choke hooked up and operating correctly. Spark box test is good. If dist still doesn't fix it, I'll check pressure.
Thanks again for all the help! I'll keep y'all posted!
 
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 06:36 PM
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new cap on dist and new magnetic pickup. So far, so good. Old dist cap had a good bit of metalic dust inside, but no visible cracks. Rotor was thirsty for some lube. Busy week this week with lots of catering gigs. Will be able to test more this weekend.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 04:46 PM
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tested spark box 25 times at autozone, to build up heat so reading would be accurate, but box never became close to being warm..thought that was kind of strange, so I bought a new box and put it on. One large chunk Of info I didn't say earlier is that she runs waaaaay rich!! I smell like a fuel depo when I get out of my truck. Carb is aftermarket Holley 4bbl. Still haven't had much time to drive truck to test, but will tomorrow
 
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 11:01 PM
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Have you checked the floats in your Holley?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 04:52 AM
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I'll check float levels when I get home. Was talking to my friend who rebuilt and installed engine...he said timing was still off, but he couldn't get it to fire unless timing was a bit off....he hates holley carbs, so he replaced it with an old edelbrock and still had no luck. He put my holley back on and adjusted the timing a bit out so it will start. Could it have been that both carbs are out of whack? It runs great, but as I said it runs real, real rich and blows darker exhaust out of driver side exhaust pipe. I can start it a million times in my shop, get the engine warm, and it will still fire, but if I drive it just the shortest distance (50 yds even), I can't start it for 30min-1hr. When I do drive it out of shop, I go down a steep hill, don't know if that throws a wrench into anything or not.
Thanks again for all of your help!
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 07:13 AM
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I would look at the floats being too high and dumping fuel down the throttle bores and flooding the engine. Do you have any signs of fuel staining on the intake below the carb? Holley's are not good carbs for these trucks due to the floats being at either end of the carb. A carb with center hung floats are much better for a vehicle that bounces a lot.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 07:42 AM
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I will check and see for signs of staining when I get off work. Will I be able to see it looking down through carb or do i need to unbolt?
 
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 08:29 PM
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Did a quick cleaning of carb, and ran some seafoam through the gas. Seemed to help a good bit with the richness..and the problem has seemed to lessen a good bit, but I don't know if that's because I got lucky, or if its because its 20 degrees outside. Coil and fuel filter get hot to touch, but you can still get away touching them without a good burn. A good bit of vapor/smoke comes out of breather cap when it won't start and I'm trying to crank it. It will start no problem if I wait no more than 1 min between starts, but if I let it sit for 30 min, it gives trouble.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 10:22 AM
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The staining will be on the outside just below the throttle shafts. In a very high float condition fuel will leak out of the venturies and drip down onto the throttle shafts and will seep out the sides and leave staining on the intake below them.

I think you have either high float settings or an internal carb leak causing the engine to flood when its shut off. The having to wait a half hour or more to restart it is the time it takes to evaporate the extra fuel.

Also, you said the fuel filter is hot? Where do you have it routed? If you have an inline filter on a rubber line and its laying on the water pump or intake you could be boiling the fuel in the filter causing vapor lock.
 
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