Hey 6.0 folks. My Ex kicks out a fair amount of smoke haze at idle when it's cold. It looks and sounds to me like it needs some more timing cranked in and fuel backed off. Is this a common issue for a stock engine? Can you even remember your stock days? (some of you!)
Would a SCT or similar tuner take care of this? Are there any options there that won't pop headgaskets on a stock engine? I don't need any more power, just like to get rid of the stink and get some MPG if possible.

 

You have any numbers for us?

 

well, i'm about six feet tall and....

Oh, that's not what you meant? What did you mean?

 

Is your EGR circuit intact, is exhaust include catalytic converter and muffler? Stock tune, any codes, any readings? I wonder how your FICM voltages are amd if you are experiencing stiction issues, we need mileage, last oil amd fuel filters, what mods, ect.

 

Josh

 

LOL that's funny Josh, FICM would be a great place to start, any Gauges to Monitor and not the Dash Gauge.

 

I'll go out on a limb and say the haze is cold air condensation unless it's 50 shades of grey or black.

Josh

 

Bullitt, that's a hoot!

No, no codes or anything. The engine is bone stock as is the exhaust. FICM was repaired an an "ECO" cal installed by ficmrepair.com several months ago. It did nothing for MPG btw, actually went down .5 mpg but drive ability is better. Apparently it's just a non-bad factory cal but I digress. Torque says the FICM is 47-48 V pretty steady. Oil and filter are changed every 5k miles, fuel filters every other oil change. Motorcraft filters only. Coming up on time for both actually and I'm going to try some 5w40 this time.

Only reason I'm really asking is that while it's always been there a friend of mine commented that he noticed a lot of 6.0's do that which got me thinking. Always dangerous. Being a diesel guy I know more timing and less fuel = less unburned fuel and thus haze. Nevermind the stink when it's in the garage!

 

-12 C here today, just field up yesterday, no additive left in my bin in the back of the truck.

 

Don't forget the Logic side and Vehicle side of your FICM
ficm lp=koeo-12.0 low-13.5 high-13.5
ficm vp= koeo-12.0 low-14.0 high-14.0
Having a Bad Alt will hurt the Battery's, Bad Battery's will kill the Ficm and put a hurtin on the Injectors. cold weather coming in most states so Battery Health is very Important. could have Stiction in 1 or more Injects , but make sure the Charging system is good

 

Yeah, we're all good on charging with the exception of that first fifteen seconds to minute where those glow plugs are pulling a few Kw! I had the factory alt tested when the ficm was out and it was fine. After driving awhile and with the input from the ficm guys gnawing on the back of my brain (and saving a few pennies) I wipped a larger alternator on this weekend. Went with the 140HD, the thing is a beast at idle, hot w everything running and it's still 13.5v at idle. You know, cause you just might need your high beams on while you're warming your buns and running the AC flat out all at the same time. Right? I'm going to add some redundant 4awg from the alternator to the battery, from one battery to the other, and from the alternator to frame, this alternator actually has an additional bolt just for that purpose.
My this thread is wandering.

http://alternatorparts.com/ford-7-3-...ke-diesel.html

eta: Batteries are Interstate Megatron Plus 65's, new in January. I'd add, the new alternator is charging the batteries a lot better, it cranks over noticeably faster the last couple of days.

eta2: just to reiterate, the question at hand is "cold" start up incomplete combustion. Can it be eliminated somehow? Do others see that with their 6.0's?