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While Im waiting to get my transmission and engine block back im going to start to run brakes lines i have a disc/drum set up my plans are to by the various straight length's from my local auto parts house and cut and flair them where needed.Have a few questions for anyone who have done this already or are in the processes of doing this.
1. When making your runs and attaching the steel lines to the frame are you using the existing holes in the frame or drilling new ones where needed to secure the line to the frame.?
2.As far as clamps goes i have been looking at the insulated but am open to suggestions? and as far as attaching the clamp to the frame are you using self tapping screws or bolts with self locking nuts?
Thanks
Brian
1. unless you are using the OEM MC and brakes it's unlikely the original holes will be in the right place, so just drill new ones it's only a few.
I like the clamps that AX has the link to but, I just did mine and used cushioned stainless clamps and drilled hole as needed. Through bolted with stainless bolts.
I like the clamps that AX has the link to but, I just did mine and used cushioned stainless clamps and drilled hole as needed. Through bolted with stainless bolts.
Thanks Guys.Waiting on my flaring tool from Eastwood then i will be getting started.
Thanks Rimrock.Did you install any residual valves and a adjustable proportioning valve ?or did your power booster/master cylinder come with a combination valve?
Thanks Rimrock.Did you install any residual valves and a adjustable proportioning valve ?or did your power booster/master cylinder come with a combination valve?
The one I refer to above is a firewall mount and I used a combination valve only. The new one I am installing in the wife's 52 is under the floor and is a 8" single with combination valve only, also disk/drum. I have not used this system yet.
So i was out in the garage cleaning out the back of the truck taking inventory of the parts that came with the truck when i got it.I new i had another set of heads that came with the truck and they turn out to be GT40P heads.The heads that are on the engine that im currently rebuilding are E7TE heads from what i have been reading on the forums is that the GT40P heads are better or more sot after?.Any input or Knowledge would be appreciated.
Got my transmission back from the rebuilder and engine block back from being hot tanked and cam bearings installed.Got it painted yesterday and slowly starting to get it back together.Got a bunch of parts ordered and should be here next week.
your project looks like its going well, did you have the block board, or honed at the machine shop? make sure you put the cross hatch pattern back in the boars so the rings can seat,, you will need to check the rod and main clearance, also the ring gap, don't ever just assume the clearance is right, I have seen + and - bearings right from ford, which means the crank was a little small or large from the factory, I have had standard rings that I have had to file to get the proper clearance, check all clearances, another thing with a small block, make sure the dorman plugs in the oil galley are staked, if you blow one of these out its all over,,, good luck George.
your project looks like its going well, did you have the block board, or honed at the machine shop? make sure you put the cross hatch pattern back in the boars so the rings can seat,, you will need to check the rod and main clearance, also the ring gap, don't ever just assume the clearance is right, I have seen + and - bearings right from ford, which means the crank was a little small or large from the factory, I have had standard rings that I have had to file to get the proper clearance, check all clearances, another thing with a small block, make sure the dorman plugs in the oil galley are staked, if you blow one of these out its all over,,, good luck George.
Thanks George. Just had it honed.Plan on checking the ring gap etc..
Im i need of a new roller camshaft for for 87 302 HO with a ford aod and gt40p heads with upgraded springs. as i just dropped mine and now it has a flat spot on the jurnel. not sure what gears i am running or tire size yet.Does anyone know what a stock replacement cam would be in an edelbrock? or should i try there tech line maybe.Thanks
im running almost the same setup in my engine I built for my 54, im running a b303 cam from ford, its like one step up from from a stock mustang roller, it has .480 lift and 284 duration, im also running a aod trans, I plan on loosening up my convertor also , trick flow also has a nice cam around the same spec,s summit has them, George.
yes use the the P heads they are much better. You may need to use p specific headers due to the different spark plug angle. I am running a trick flow stage 1 cam. If you are using the converter and AOD I would not running anything hotter.
If you need help with the wiring being modified, I can help. I do them all the time, and have done a ton of them. I can make the engine harness a few wire hook up when done. I have pics and references of needed.
There is no "reflash" of the ECM, don't let anyone fool you. This is not a GM. The mass air computers (EEC-IV) are very good units
