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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

53 F100 GETTING STARTED

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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 05:59 PM
  #31  
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5.0 High Output -- The Ford V-8 Engine Workshop


Those numbers E7TE-AA match yours, check the casting marks on the heads to see if they are GT40 or GT40P heads


Anything/Everything GT40P - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 06:03 PM
  #32  
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What Cars Have 5.0 HO.And Swap Advice - Ford Mustang Forums


scroll down and you will see the list with which vehicles could have HO engines...
 
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 08:31 PM
  #33  
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From: Columbia River Gorge
Originally Posted by clintonvillian
5.0 High Output -- The Ford V-8 Engine Workshop


Those numbers E7TE-AA match yours, check the casting marks on the heads to see if they are GT40 or GT40P heads


Anything/Everything GT40P - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
I cannot find anything on the heads no GT, GT40 or GT40P. No raised ribs on the front of the heads either.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 05:13 PM
  #34  
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Trying to identify witch cam i have but cannot find and Pn just a stamp number BP/16 or BR/16.Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks
 
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 05:26 PM
  #35  
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Looking at it closer it looks like BR 16


 
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 11:36 PM
  #36  
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Hi neighbor. I don't know anything about a 302 but Welcome to the forum anyways. Will be watching your project with interest.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 10:35 PM
  #37  
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From: Columbia River Gorge
Originally Posted by AXracer
Don't know much about 302 internals, but the engine looks very clean inside (typical of EFI engines that were maintained. I wouldn't be in a hurry to rip it apart if it was mine. I'd be careful not to drop any junk into it, button it back up with some new garkets, check the compression and do a blow down test on it. You could save yourself a lot of time and money!
Like I said in another post, to me taking off the EFI and putting on a carb is like taking out your cell phone's touch screen and putting a rotary dial in it's place. How long did it take you to adapt to smart phone/computers? EFI is similar situation, a little different technology with a short learning curve, but much easier than setting up a smart phone! Carbs are a lot more complex to set up/tune properly, need regular maintenance/adjusting and waste gas and power.

There are a number of places that will clean down the wiring harness, reflash the ECU for less than the cost of a new intake and carb. After that it's just PnP.
Ax, Can you point me on the direction of a few place that will thin down the wiring harness and flash the ECU.Thanks
 
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 10:49 PM
  #38  
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You may try to PM Ryans88gt, who is a member on the board. I believe I remember him talking a bunch about the 5L mustang motors and I think he talked about reflashing the ECM's before. Here is a link to his thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1-project.html
 
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 10:55 PM
  #39  
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From: Columbia River Gorge
Originally Posted by dmack91
You may try to PM Ryans88gt, who is a member on the board. I believe I remember him talking a bunch about the 5L mustang motors and I think he talked about reflashing the ECM's before. Here is a link to his thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1-project.html
Thanks. I will look onto that.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 10:18 AM
  #40  
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Here's a quoted post from bjmayberry2:
Glad to hear you're on the down hill side of the wiring. I gave up and sent my stuff to a guy to lean it out for me. $250. Seemed like a deal. Haven't installed it yet but he even sent VERY detailed instructions.

If anyone's interested:
Chuck's Roadster Electronics
12438 Hillcrest Drive
Nevada City, CA 95959
530-447-7829

Great guy to work with and the harnesses 7 in total look Factory!
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 06:11 PM
  #41  
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From: Columbia River Gorge
Originally Posted by AXracer
Here's a quoted post from bjmayberry2:
Thanks Ax.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 06:17 PM
  #42  
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Sending my engine out this week to ket hot tanked then start putting it back together.Moving on to my transmission witch is an AOD.Just got a quote from the local transmission shop to re-bearing reseal he recommended putting a shift kit in it.Total cost was $1400.00 does that seem reasonable? What do you guys think who has had their AOD's rebuilt.

Thanks
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 10:46 PM
  #43  
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From: Austin
Hey Cruiser,
Nice truck! That sounds like a reasonable price for your AOD re-work.
They charge $400 just to crack open a trans. here. Do you know what version of AOD Overdrive Belt you have? You want the heavy duty 2 inch variety - "A" Servo. Some of the earlier car AOD's came with a smaller 1.5 in. "C" servo. There are a lot of other upgrades you can make to your AOD - depending on how much HP you plan to run.

Baumann's site has a lot of useful info. on AOD options. We went with a Kevlar Overdrive A size belt. Be careful on the shift kits - we went with an aggressive "racing" version - ugggghhh... Very hard jarring shifts - not what you want in town. It takes a lot of patience to get the cable pressure set right - really small adjustments in the cable have a large impact in how smooth it changes gears. (Lot's of adjusting). You need to get the pressure set right or it will just crater - expensive.

Baumann Electronic Controls

Good luck over there in Oregon!

Ben in Austin
1950 F1
 
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Old Nov 20, 2014 | 06:11 PM
  #44  
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Hilborn Fuel Injectors & AODE tranny controller

Originally Posted by CharlieLed
Somebody needs to produce an intake for the EFI engines that looks decent...I think that many more people would keep the EFI setup if it looked better.
I have no insight on performance of these...but they sure look cool for EFI and they have several configurations for Ford engines. Maybe they would be of interest to you.
Hilborn Fuel Injectors

Regarding transmission:
I'm looking to couple a AODE/4R70w so that we can control the shift points. Feedback that I have received from several tran builders is that the Compushift II controller is a great way to go - plus for about $40 you can attach an A/B switch (also referred to as a "Valet Switch") so that you could have two separate shift profiles (daily driver + performance) COMPUSHIFT II ? HGM Automotive Electronics

I don't know if any of this fits into your build plan, or budget.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 06:48 PM
  #45  
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While Im waiting to get my transmission and engine block back im going to start to run brakes lines i have a disc/drum set up my plans are to by the various straight length's from my local auto parts house and cut and flair them where needed.Have a few questions for anyone who have done this already or are in the processes of doing this.

1. When making your runs and attaching the steel lines to the frame are you using the existing holes in the frame or drilling new ones where needed to secure the line to the frame.?

2.As far as clamps goes i have been looking at the insulated but am open to suggestions? and as far as attaching the clamp to the frame are you using self tapping screws or bolts with self locking nuts?

Thanks

Brian
 
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