So after driving Betty for the summer, I'm wanting to upgrade and add power steering. I'm ok with the drum brakes and manual trans. This upgrade is also so the wife will be able to drive her easily as well. I've read up on the conversion, and none of it seem cut and dried to me. Finding a donor truck around here is like finding hens teeth anymore. I did find this conversion kit FORD TRUCK POWER STEERING GEAR BOX and was wondering if anyone went this route. I contacted them and the kit is available for FE powered trucks, which I have.
So would there be anything else I need to factor in? I'm good with cutting the steering shaft to length to make this work.

 

The conversion your link shows appears to have most everything you would need, with the exception of a shorter steering column and steering column clamp.

Ford used two different PS boxes in the '66-'79 2 wheel drive trucks. The early box, from '66- late (?)'68 and then from late '68 through '79.
The early box is a Bendix unit and the later box is referred to as a Ford, or Saginaw, box.

The kit you show looks to use the later, Ford, box and that is the most common for these conversions.
The Bendix box is prone to leaks and generally not well regarded, in addition to being difficult to get parts for.

The Bendix box uses the same steering column as a manual steering box, though you will need a steering shaft about 3/4" shorter than the MS shaft.

The Ford PS box is about 2" longer than the stock MS box, so it requires a steering column assembly about 2" shorter than the stock column. Most swaps will use a column from a '70-'72 truck that has the same transmission as the project truck has. A bit of rework for the column to dash mount and a bit of wiring for the turn signals is all that is required. A PS firewall to column clamp is also required.

A tilt column from a '78-'79 is also the same length as the '70-'72 unit and will fit as well, though a bit more work is required to finish off the install since the later trucks had a larger diameter outer column trim.

It should be clear as to why a donor rig is always suggested. Lots of little parts and pieces to deal with.

I have done several of these conversions and have made most of the mistakes one could along the way. There are as many different ways to add PS to these trucks, but what I have listed is what I have found to be the easiest and cleanest,

Hope this helps clear up some confusion.

Good luck.

 

Also missing in the kit is the column to firewall mount that bolts to the firewall. The non PS version has a slight change in the angle of the column.

I heated and bent my non PS version enough to get it to work, but am not too happy with it and may change it once I find the proper PS version

 

Bendix P/S: 1966/68 F100/250 2WD - 1969 F100/250 2WD before serial number G30,001.

Ford/Saginaw P/S: 1969 F100/250 2WD & F350 from serial number G30,001 - 1970/79 F100/250 2WD & F350.

I don't see the accessory outer pulley in this kit. It bolts to the harmonic balancer for the P/S belt.

If the 1965 has a 352 FE engine, you need this pulley from a 1961 thru 1967 FE car, 1965/67 F100/350 352.

1968/76 FE engine harmonic balancer, outer pulleys are not the same.

 

So since I have a 4 speed on the floor can I not use the existing column and just shorten the shaft 2 inches and use a borgsen coupler to attach to the gearbox?

 

Ford/Saginaw P/S: 1969/70 steering shaft is 32 7/8" long. 1971/72 and 1973 before serial number S40,001 steering shaft is 33 3/8" long.

1973 from serial number S40,001, 1974/79 steering shaft is also 33 3/8" long, but the steering shaft is different as is the steering coupler.

1978/79 tilt column steering shaft is 32 5/16" long.

I've typed the length of the 1966/79 P/S steering shafts and their part numbers multiple times here on FTE, so I'm not going to do it again.

Type C6TZ-3524-M into the search box, then read thru the first three threads.

 

ND So for the crank pulley I'm looking for either the double or triple versions of these you listed elsewhere correct?

1960/67 352/390/410/428 Accessory Outer Pulleys-Use with C3AZ-6312-E Harmonic Balancer

C1AZ-6A312-B .. Single Sheave Outer Pulley / Obsolete / 14 available NOS

C1AZ-6A312-D .. Single Sheave Outer Pulley / Obsolete / 5 available NOS

COAZ-6A312-A .. Double Sheave Outer Pulley / Obsolete / 3 available NOS

C1AZ-6A312-C .. Double Sheave Outer Pulley / Obsolete / 1 available NOS

C4AZ-6A312-B .. Triple Sheave Outer Pulley / Obsolete / 1 available NOS

C4SZ-6A312-B .. Triple Sheave Outer Pulley / Obsolete / 8 available NOS

 

If everything measures out and you have enough room to do the work your method should work.

Be advised that the stock steering shaft is round, not splined, "D", or "double D" as most aftermarket shafts and components.

Regarding the crank pulley. As you can see there is are several to choose from. Without knowing which pump and pump bracket you will be using, it will be difficult to know which crank pulley is correct.

As I said earlier, there are any number of ways to do this swap. Do what works best for you.

 

Depending on what month/year I typed this post, the quantities have likely changed.

But you don't need a double or triple sheave outer pulley if you're only going to add P/S.

You only need a single sheave outer pulley...if any are still available, a double if none can be found.

 

I did the conversion you are contemplating in my '66 FE, 4 speed. I used the triple pulley because I also added air conditioning. As you are in Michigan you perhaps could get by with a double. Since you have a 4 speed it will be relatively easy to leave the column length alone and just shorten the shaft. I had a little trouble finding a welder to cut a piece out and weld the end back on - worries about liability - but I eventually did. I went to a junkyard and got a core P/S pump and reservoir and all the necessary mounting bracketry for $45, a P/S pitman arm for $35. Then I went to AutoZone and bought a lifetime guaranteed P/S pump and reservoir (P/N 7007) for $40, Ford/Saginaw P/S gearbox (P/N 7505) for $137, pressure hose (P/N 70956) for $16, and return hose (P/N 70958) for $18. I also bought a new rag joint. As Number Dummy will point out, the AZ rebuilt stuff may leak, and the first gearbox I got from them did, but there is a lifetime guarantee and the second one has been in for 4 years with no trouble. I put in all new bushings and bearings in the column, and a new turn signal switch while I had it all apart. Caras makes a good point that I overlooked, that the angle needs to change slightly which is done by the engine bay side power steering specific fire wall mounted bracket. Since I don't have that particular bracket, my alignment problem was solved by two ⅜ inch spacers to lower the column installed at the instrument panel steering column mount bolts. That negatively impacts leg room slightly, but with P/S you can then fit a smaller diameter steering wheel if you want to. This method might be slightly cheaper than the kit you are contemplating buying. Good luck with whatever you do. Here's a picture of my pulley mounting system (including A/C).

 

May need minor refab at firewall by re-drilling holes for steering column collar, seem to recall the angle is slightly greater using the Ford P/S box as opposed to the manual box. Using a P/S collar may help?? In addition, depending upon engine family, may need driver's side engine perch which is slightly angled for the larger/longer Ford box; perhaps more knowledgeable member can advise?

Posting link to pic's of the collar, engine perch, and articles; however, use caution, these articles are in reference to 67-72 and the measurements and spec's possibly different. Make sure to research and measure!!

http://www.fordification.com/tech/im...ts02_small.jpg

http://www.fordification.com/tech/im...side_small.jpg

How to Install Power Steering in a 2WD F100/250/350 - FORDification.com

How to Shorten Your Manual-Steering Column - FORDification.com

 

Dave's right. Forgot about the driver side engine mount perch. You can either find the correct one, say, from a '70 or later FE truck, or do what I did which is to V notch my existing perch for clearancing at the appropriate place where it would otherwise hit. I didn't have to remove enough material to impact structural strength. Good luck.

 

Also have the 4spd, some 30 plus years ago made the P/S upgrade and just shortening the existing steering column shaft. Another option may be to go with a later model shaft that's possibly the correct length, this was during my infancy stage, and before becoming an FTE member that I learned by trail and error, particular in re: to alignment of column to steering box. Since swapped the 6cyl. for Ford small block I was able to take all the P/S components, brackets, pump, pulleys, etc. from passenger vehicle and swap over to the engine. May want to consider going w/ a 3 sheave pulley in event decide to go w/ A/C in the future. Finally, check to ensure damper, fan, and P/S pulley are matched to get the proper belt alignment which may not be an issue w/ the FE family??

 

Here is a photo of the manual steering box vs the Ford Saginaw unit. As you can see it is much bigger and heavier. I did away with the rag joint and used a U-Joint from Helix. I had found a shorter steering column from a 4 speed and had the machine shop mill flat spots and a notch for the double "D" and a spline on the other end for the Ford box. This way you don't have to worry about a slight misalignment as the U-Joint will take care of that.


Here is the correct bracket, notice how it angles forward to clear the bigger Ford box. You can use a perch from late 69 on up to about 76 or so. You can use a perch from a FE or an Inline 6. Perched from 302's won't work because they are not as tall and the engine will set to low.




here is the comparison of the manual box vs the big Ford box.




The rag joint was cut off and I had the end milled to accept the Double "D" U-Joint




U-Joint again showing notch for the tightening screw on the U-Joint.




Double "D" end of the U-Joint, the other end has splines to fit the Ford box.



Once you have all the parts and the U-Joint it all fits together. I found a 72 at the wrecking yard that I found all the parts from. I also purchased an entire running 360 from a 72 from a private party that was complete with all the accessories on the front including PS pump, MSD ignition system and Hedman headers and a flex plate with a C-6 converter.

Good luck.