using wd40 rather than starting fluid
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New User
Joined: Sep 2014
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using wd40 rather than starting fluid
I have herd of using wd40 to help start these old trucks and i was wondering what your guys opinion was on that and if it is something you can do how much do you use and if anyone uses this.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 515
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You can use starting fluid, just don't use a lot (a LITTLE bit goes a long way) and be sure you disable your glow plugs... Better off just fixing your glow plugs though, it isn't a very expensive fix. What's wrong with yours?
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 435
Likes: 6
From: Kitimat British columbia
Any short of a spray lube does help I have done it on other diesel engines but not on an idi engine, always direct injections. But as starting fluid you can serverly damage the engine if done wrong, and its never recomended unless you absolutely have too.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2014
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Nothing i was just wondering about the spary lube
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,049
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From: Perry Georgia
I would highly recomend NOT using starter fluid. It cost me a starter years ago. I thought I knew better than all those that said DON"T but having to buy a starter changed my mind. I use HIGHLY FLAMABLE BRAKE CLEANER. There are non flamable but they don't work but I have also used choke and throttle cleaner if it was the only choice I had.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,164
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From: Tri-Cities, TN
The company my wife works for had an International box truck with the TE444 in it. It had glow plug issues that the hack mechanic they used couldn't get right despite the shovels full of cash they gave him. So they resorted to using starting fluid just about every day to fire it up in cold weather - even though it was always plugged in. Of course, they weren't bothering to remove the air cleaner. Raise your hand if you can see where this is going...
After applying a liberal dose of ether into the air cleaner inlet one sub-zero morning, the truck started and was left idling while the driver got his assignment for the day. Then someone notices all the smoke, oh and the flames coming from under the hood. A couple of discharged fire extinguishers later, and the hood, air cleaner assembly, heater hoses and most of the under hood wiring were literally toast. The ether had filled the bottom of the air cleaner assembly, dripped out of the bottom onto the right side exhaust manifold, and poof! No more truck.
Moral of the story? Ether bad. Stupidity worse.
After applying a liberal dose of ether into the air cleaner inlet one sub-zero morning, the truck started and was left idling while the driver got his assignment for the day. Then someone notices all the smoke, oh and the flames coming from under the hood. A couple of discharged fire extinguishers later, and the hood, air cleaner assembly, heater hoses and most of the under hood wiring were literally toast. The ether had filled the bottom of the air cleaner assembly, dripped out of the bottom onto the right side exhaust manifold, and poof! No more truck.
Moral of the story? Ether bad. Stupidity worse.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
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WD40 may have been used when the propellant was propane. I *think* they changed it over to co2 propellant which is completely inert. The penetrating oil then is left to collect grime in the intake.
First thing I would do with any starting problem with these trucks is get one of them fancy high performance starters. Then check fuel system and glow plugs. I would not use starting aids in any engine unless I really didn't like the engine or was in a true pinch. Pre-tdc knock can be ***catastrophic***.
If a DI engine won't fire and it's not 20 deg out, think fuel system. Air, engine oil pressure/hpop, vp actuator sleeves, cp3, lift pump etc. Unless it's a pony, then run the pony long enough to warm the block (that's what they are for). Anything over 16:1 DI will fire on the first cylinder that gets a shot of fuel, though it may need a few more to fire to get the flywheel up to speed.
First thing I would do with any starting problem with these trucks is get one of them fancy high performance starters. Then check fuel system and glow plugs. I would not use starting aids in any engine unless I really didn't like the engine or was in a true pinch. Pre-tdc knock can be ***catastrophic***.
If a DI engine won't fire and it's not 20 deg out, think fuel system. Air, engine oil pressure/hpop, vp actuator sleeves, cp3, lift pump etc. Unless it's a pony, then run the pony long enough to warm the block (that's what they are for). Anything over 16:1 DI will fire on the first cylinder that gets a shot of fuel, though it may need a few more to fire to get the flywheel up to speed.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
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WD40 does not work, i tried it when i was out of ether. I ether start both my trucks and never have had a problem. You have to be trying pretty hard to screw up something with ether, or be a total moron. Biggest thing you have to watch for is dont give it ether if you have a few working glowplugs, makes for a pretty good back fire (i havent tested the last part, but it sounds legit.) Any other nonsense you hear about ruining starters, ether addiction, etc. is just that, nonsense.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
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Honestly, when it's frigging cold and the GPs won't start it? Use a bit of ether. Better than running your batteries down. Do wait for a minute with the key on before squirting your ether, to let the GPs cool down.
And yes, I've seen the same thing with regards to 'ether addiction' - I went from a totally ether addicted engine when I bought it, cleaned it up, fixed the GP and injector issues, and it fired right up after that... at least above 20F. Below, it's iffy(not plugged in of course).
Oh, and that engine is currently getting rebuilt... and it was *damned* worn. Half the rings were stuck, .025 wear on the cyl walls, everything else worn and old, and yet it fired right up until I decided to take it out and have it rebuilt(due to not having a lot of power... imagine that?)
And yes, I've seen the same thing with regards to 'ether addiction' - I went from a totally ether addicted engine when I bought it, cleaned it up, fixed the GP and injector issues, and it fired right up after that... at least above 20F. Below, it's iffy(not plugged in of course).
Oh, and that engine is currently getting rebuilt... and it was *damned* worn. Half the rings were stuck, .025 wear on the cyl walls, everything else worn and old, and yet it fired right up until I decided to take it out and have it rebuilt(due to not having a lot of power... imagine that?)
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,049
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From: Perry Georgia
Phy. I was driving an Isuzu trooper and it was hard starting so I used starter fluid aka either. Gave it a shot to start it, climbed back in and when I hit the key it turned but took the starter out when it tried running backwards.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 186
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From: Dunbarton, NH
I used silicone spray. Works excellent and doesn't cause fires. A little shot and my truck would fire right up. But I replaced my gp's, batteries, and replaced the broken battery clamp and it fires right up without hesitation. Just saying.
Bob
Bob