Hi,

I have never changed rotors and Brake pads on a 4X4. I need to do this for the front of a 1996 Bronco (88K on the odom, generally excellent shape) with stock auto locking hubs. I understand:

- Tire and wheel comes off
- 3 torx screws hold the hub cap
- there is a snap ring to remove
- there are 2 more below that

I have watched a few youtube videos and I have a few questions

- How do the calipers come off? I am looking for bolts, but this has pins? what do these pins look like and do I push inside to out with a punch?

- There is no noise or other obvious issues in the hubs - is there anything I need to do? repack them? Replace anything?

- I drive out the lug studs with a hammer - right

Should I oil or grease the splines when pulling these back in?
My lug nuts are caped (can not reverse these) should I buy a bolt or other device to pull the lugs through?

I need to buy 2 rotors, and a set of pads - anything else?

Anything else you guys know that I am about to learn through the school of hard knocks?

Thanks

 

Hi,

I have the hub apart and am to the point where I don't see how to get the hub off. Is there another snap ring at this point? I do not see it - where is it? Is there another way? Also, it looks like I need some hub parts. This outer part looks worn (is it a part i can get?) also, one of the washers is split. It was not dry, but the grease was tired

What cha think????

 

Based on the last photo, I may be wrong here but it looks like you're gonna need a locking hub nut removal socket for a Ford to get the two locking nuts off of the wheel bearings so that the hub can come off.

The tool looks like this:

It can be picked up at any auto parts store in the tools section. They may even loan one but it's cheap so just buy it - for next time.

The outer nut locks the wheel bearings in place after adjustment. Under it is a ring with a series of evenly spaced holes around it that you use to lock the inner lock nut in place after the bearings are adjusted.

Someone can correct me but the adjustment is just to install the bearings and race if necessary and then the inner lock nut. Tighten the inner lock nut to remove any end play and make sure the hub rotates freely. It will probably be necessary to back off the inner lock nut slightly to allow the hole on the lock ring to line up with the pin on the inner lock nut. I don't remember the torque specs on this but they are probably available here on this site. The holey lock ring then slides in the slot on the hub and engages the pin on the inner lock nut to hold it in place. After the lock ring is in, you put the outer lock nut on and torque to 60-80 lb/ft I think. Then reassemble the rest of the hub.

Hope this helps.

 

I got it. It was removable with a pin. I got it apart, switched the rotors and pads and got it back together