I had found a few threads on steering wheel restoration and so decided to give it a whirl. Maters wheel had several small cracks and some large separations up to 1/8". There were some small pieces missing but no major sections. Typical cracked areas were at each spoke end.
I opened up the cracks and keyed them best I could. Tool of choice was a dremmel 1/8 straight carbide and a 3/16 round ball cutter.
I used PC-7, a sticky epoxy paste. Air pockets are not uncommon, hind sight being 20/20 it would have been best to layer it into the deep pockets. I think 1/8" groove is the minimum for this reason.
It can be forced dried in an oven, I started at 125 and ended at 200 for about one hour.
PC-7 is hard to smooth out, I trimmed the excess with an Exacto knife while it was still hot and soft.
Roughed the flat areas with a mill ******* file and round rat tail file.
Sanded with 220 using flat and round sanding blocks.
The sanding dust from the black rubber is messy so be prepared.
Changed my mind,will use a primer so I can take advantage of spot putty to finish the wheel before top coating with a rattle can finish.
Picture taken after last round with 220. Will use black primer so nicks won't show a light primer.

 

Looking good! I have done a couple of wheels in the past and used PC7. I did not use the oven which significantly increases the time, good idea. The last one that I did (this past winter)was for a 1948 boat. That wheel was made by the same people known in the past for ACE combs.

 

Final process was to sand with 220, prime with rustoleoum black auto primer, fill a few deep scratches, and color coat with 2-coats of rustoleoum semi-gloss black.
I purposefully left some of the dings cuz I didn't want a perfect wheel.
I used a fine scotch pad I between coats, but for a finer finish 400 would have been better. The rustoleoum semi-gloss when lightly buffed with the scotch pad looks like a weathered wheel.
Still need an original horn button!

 

Your truck is coming along nicely!

 

Trailered Mater down to "Mom's Muffler" in Paso Robles today for a set of new pipes. Went with 1 3/4" pipes straight back. Looking forward to a little free time next week to recheck all of my work then proceed with first start up and cam & ring break in.

 

Two steps forward and one step back......
Exhaust done, electrical checked, went over all systems again and then added fuel. The Carter WCFB carb was not functioning correctly. I decided to send it off and be professionally rebuilt rather than try to figure out a 60 year old carburetor. It had been rebuilt a long time ago but I could not get the accelerator pump to flow fuel. Probably best choice as it was redone before alcohol was added to our fuels and the pump seal would have failed eventually.
This fella I found has some good info to share on new fuels if you are interested.
Here is the website for The Old Carb Doctor:

http://www.oldcarbdoctor.com/ethanol.html

 

In my quest for an original taillight housing I bought this one. After bead blasting a ford logo was revealed. I thought I'd post a picture for future reference. Photo of inside is in my album. The attributes of the ford shell are different than others I've seen.

 

I ordered a tachometer last Saturday morning. Usually with UPS or USPS it takes 2 business days.
Summit shipped the tach on Saturday with On-track and it arrived Monday before noon.
Hard to beat that kind of mail order service.

(Update, the SW tachometer did not work out. The needle was bouncing all over at idle. I sent it back to Summit)

 

After six weeks wait my carb arrived from the Old Carb Doctor in Nebo, North Carolina. No complaints with the quality, a first class restoration.
Will install and get to break in Maters new engine later in the week.

 

Run in the cam today and begin de bugging my work. Runs well so far.
Cam + compression = muy loud.........may need a pair of Brockmans.

I ordered a pair of steel pack mufflers today from Mac at VanPelt Sales. Going with 18" so I don loose to much character.

 

The imbedded video link was slow to buffer. Will see if the YouTube link works better.

 

That one works. Sound great.

 

That has a nice sound!

 

I discovered today that the Offenhauser 4bbl intake has to much offset and causes the fan to hit the shroud I was installing. Bummer as the offy was a nice fit. Onward to find another original intake with the generator mount centered. Hope to find a Fenton......

 

Is it so far off that you can't modify the shroud?