"Mater"
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Valve seats
These turned out well. Will get the blocked cleaned this week, after all of the machine work it needs a good scrubbing. Should have a valve spring tester here in a couple of days and I can start with the valve train.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Fender Bead
I have been following AXracer's thread on sheet metal restoration. He has a great idea to form the fender bead using a 5/8 rod. Didn't want to buy 10' so I turned and formed an old piece of e-brake Rod from a Model A.
This will work well.......thanks AX
This will work well.......thanks AX
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Who-hoo!
Made some headway installing the fender patches. I'm pretty pleased with the out come. I was able to control the warping fairly well and will only need a light skim coat of filler. I used a Miller 185 MIG with .023 wire and it did well.
I will coat the inside of the fenders with POR-15 and prime the patches with red oxide. Not sure how I'm going to blend in the repairs, I will probally wait until the fenders are mounted.....
I posted a few more pictures in Maters album.
The rest of my parts for the engine arrived this week so it bounce back to the flathead.
I will coat the inside of the fenders with POR-15 and prime the patches with red oxide. Not sure how I'm going to blend in the repairs, I will probally wait until the fenders are mounted.....
I posted a few more pictures in Maters album.
The rest of my parts for the engine arrived this week so it bounce back to the flathead.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Bumper
I finished straightening the bumper and welding the missing section in where the hitch was welded onto it. The other bumper was stout, but had a tweaked corner. The replacement is from a 1965 F1 and looks more at home than the bumper that was on it (pictured below). I will leave the steel to rust so it may in time match the rest of the trucks "patina" .
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Valve Springs
I found this 40s vintage Sturtevant valve spring tester. While probally not accurate enough for a race engine it should do just fine for Maters flathead and Model A engine projects.
It uses a beam style torque wrench with a needle pointer to test the spring. I tested one of Maters Lincoln Zephyr springs at an engine shop and this tool gave the same reading as the modern tester, whada ya know the old stuff works!
Besides, I have a weak spot for cool old tools.......
It uses a beam style torque wrench with a needle pointer to test the spring. I tested one of Maters Lincoln Zephyr springs at an engine shop and this tool gave the same reading as the modern tester, whada ya know the old stuff works!
Besides, I have a weak spot for cool old tools.......
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Cleaned a few parts and milled the Offenhsuser to fit the Carter WCFB carburetor today. Not sure why they left the ports so small (1.125), but now the carb can bolt to the intake without an adapter. Woo hoo, I found a new Mallory electronic distributor that a fella had decided not to use on his flathead. I have not used a Petronics ignition yet....I'm looking forward to seeing how it performs.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
A little break in the weather so we planted flowers today after church. Mater will need to wait........I wonder if they make "hello kitty" mechanics gloves too?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Fenders
Had a warm day so I decided to apply the body filler and prime the exterior of the fenders where the patches were installed. Afterward I applied 2x costs of POR-15 to the inside of the fenders. I will let them cure for a couple of days and then fit the sheet metal. All body parts will be left loose until the engine is replaced them I can begin final assembly.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Mockup
Interesting to note as I have been sanding, Ford used a black primer on the fenders and a red primer on the bed, cab, and hood. The fenders were painted body color inside of the fender wells. Some of the small parts on the truck were dipped in paint but it appears the fenders were spray painted off of the vehicle. This would have left a gap for the insulating tape to be visable in between the body panels on the front end. It does not apear as though this tape is reproduced, the model A community has been using friction tape for years. I will use the same on Mater as well.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Making progress......
A trip to the east coast, re-sleeving a cylinder and other duties have distracted from any great strides of progress.
The engine came back with a sleeved cylinder. The block received a good bath and I have begun getting it ready for assembly. The Lincoln Zephyr valve springs are set up for 55# for my Potvin re grind L-100 cam, resurfaced lifters, Chevy valve, and hard seats. The 1940s valve spring tester in post #50 worked like a champ. The Pistons are .080 stock 4 ring, stock rods, and King bearings on the rods and crank. Clearance set at .002. Not sure why the previous owner set the crank at 2 thou, but I'm gonna run it rather than regrind it. Rotating assm. balanced, Pistons were way out but have them within a couple of tents/gram each.
In the picture I'm measuring the combustion chamber to piston clearance with clay. Using these measurements each head (52-53 EAB) will be milled to achieve appx. .050 clearance inbetween the piston and head. This will improve the compression ratio a bit (7.5:1 or so), but mainly give better low-mid range power.
The engine came back with a sleeved cylinder. The block received a good bath and I have begun getting it ready for assembly. The Lincoln Zephyr valve springs are set up for 55# for my Potvin re grind L-100 cam, resurfaced lifters, Chevy valve, and hard seats. The 1940s valve spring tester in post #50 worked like a champ. The Pistons are .080 stock 4 ring, stock rods, and King bearings on the rods and crank. Clearance set at .002. Not sure why the previous owner set the crank at 2 thou, but I'm gonna run it rather than regrind it. Rotating assm. balanced, Pistons were way out but have them within a couple of tents/gram each.
In the picture I'm measuring the combustion chamber to piston clearance with clay. Using these measurements each head (52-53 EAB) will be milled to achieve appx. .050 clearance inbetween the piston and head. This will improve the compression ratio a bit (7.5:1 or so), but mainly give better low-mid range power.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Slow but Sure
I'm still putting away with Maters engine.
I took the heads to our local engine machine shop to have them milled for correct head to piston clearance. When they return I will assemble the top end and using clay check the clearance one last time.
I found that the valve guides I bought were not machined correctly, they had a small radius left where the spring sits holding the spring and shims up .005-.015. Took them apart and cleaned the surface up on the lathe so the springs now sit firmly into the valve guide.
To adjust he cam end play a shim was needed behind the cam gear. I used my Mitchell Early Ford Brake Drum puller with a ring I fabricsted to go behind the gear so the puller could draw it off, worked well.
Small steps but still moving forward.
I took the heads to our local engine machine shop to have them milled for correct head to piston clearance. When they return I will assemble the top end and using clay check the clearance one last time.
I found that the valve guides I bought were not machined correctly, they had a small radius left where the spring sits holding the spring and shims up .005-.015. Took them apart and cleaned the surface up on the lathe so the springs now sit firmly into the valve guide.
To adjust he cam end play a shim was needed behind the cam gear. I used my Mitchell Early Ford Brake Drum puller with a ring I fabricsted to go behind the gear so the puller could draw it off, worked well.
Small steps but still moving forward.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Heads Done
Finished clearance checking the heads today. Some sanding needed in the dome areas to establish a reasonably consistent .045 squish area. Turned out well although I did not angle mill them. If I do another set I will build a jig for my mill to do so.
Initial numbers look like 251 cu in, 63 cc combustion chambers yielding
a 7.95:1 compression ratio.
Whoo hoo!
Should be able to start assembly this week
Initial numbers look like 251 cu in, 63 cc combustion chambers yielding
a 7.95:1 compression ratio.
Whoo hoo!
Should be able to start assembly this week
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
I guess hind sight is 20-20.
I didn't give enough thought to the cooling fan.....thought I would go with the original but it won't work with the alternator bracket I made.....will see if I can adapt the original generator mount to carry the alternator or machine a different holder to use the original fan and axle.
If not I will be forced to use an electric fan. Otherwise still moving forward at a snails pace!