) Very nice and simple solution.
"Mater"
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Finished mounting a 30 amp generator from a 1964 F-100 with an 8rt pulley. I kept the 6 blade fan for now. Will be looking for a 6v generator as parts to use the front and rear covers so he generstor will look like a stock 8rt unit. The block was modified to utilize a full flow remote oil filter. I need to paint the cab floor and then I can install the engine and finish final setup before starting it. I wasn't sure where the engine CG would end up so I made an adjustable lift point.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Nice day today to work on Mater. Got the engine in, built a throttle bell crank for the WCFB and mounted the various components to make it go. Mounted the 80s style fuel pump to the frame and put in new steel and rubber gas lines. The gas tank had the thickest black goo that I had ever see in it, it took a week to gravity drain snd then I cleaned it out with acetone. Running double filters so all should be well.
I hope the older electric fuel pump holds up to the E-gas.
I mounted a remote canister oil filter on the firewall for ease of servicing.
I have a laundry list of parts for Napa, but the next big Job is the exhaust. Gonna use a local shop and try 1 3/4 straight pipes to see what kinda rumble Mater will make........
I hope the older electric fuel pump holds up to the E-gas.
I mounted a remote canister oil filter on the firewall for ease of servicing.
I have a laundry list of parts for Napa, but the next big Job is the exhaust. Gonna use a local shop and try 1 3/4 straight pipes to see what kinda rumble Mater will make........
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Heater
I don't think I will be needing a heater here in California so i repurposed it.
It will hide my electrical center for Mater.
I removed all of the internals and cut as much as I could to reduce the depth of the box. I found an old metal first aid kit and it gave up a nice light weight piano hinge. A little cutting and stretching and the two halves fit together well. A piece of pine provides a mounting surface for the fuse blocks, future relays, and wire anchors.
The best part is I won't need to stand on my head to replace fuses.
It will hide my electrical center for Mater.
I removed all of the internals and cut as much as I could to reduce the depth of the box. I found an old metal first aid kit and it gave up a nice light weight piano hinge. A little cutting and stretching and the two halves fit together well. A piece of pine provides a mounting surface for the fuse blocks, future relays, and wire anchors.
The best part is I won't need to stand on my head to replace fuses.
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Belt adjusting tool
It was really awkward to try and find a good pry point to create the desired belt tension, maybe I'm just nervous around the new paint and shiny stuff.....
I went to the scrap box, found a few pieces and made a tool to tension the belts.
Worked best with a 6" crescent. Next swap meet I will look for a ratchet box wrench I can cut down. It sits on top of the pulley and presses against the bottom of the fan housing.
The picture should be self explanatory.
I went to the scrap box, found a few pieces and made a tool to tension the belts.
Worked best with a 6" crescent. Next swap meet I will look for a ratchet box wrench I can cut down. It sits on top of the pulley and presses against the bottom of the fan housing.
The picture should be self explanatory.
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From: NM
Clever tool! LOL, it sure is a treat tightening those belts! Wait til you have to do it with the fenders on. A strap around the generator and a cherry picker is the painless way for the big belt, but won't do the fan.
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Steering Arm
As much as I buck and snort about EBay every once in a while a good deal passes by.
I have been looking for a replacement steering arm.
I bought an NOS steering arm the other day for Mater......
I have been looking for a replacement steering arm.
I bought an NOS steering arm the other day for Mater......
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Boy, I sure don't remember it taking this long to take Mater apart. Been working on getting all of the motor systems connected. Had to build a throttle linkage because the rotation of the WCFB was opposite of the ford linkage. In the photo the sheet steel is shaped to hold the axle that the bell crank is attached to. All this because I wanted to keep the original pedal.
Otherwise still poking along.
Wiring is complete except for my turn signal circuit, I may abandon the toggle switch for an original turn signal.....
About done with the rough assembly of the interior. Some small items left like voltage reducer for the instrument cluster and windshield wiper installation. And the big stuff like glass and seat upholstery.
Otherwise still poking along.
Wiring is complete except for my turn signal circuit, I may abandon the toggle switch for an original turn signal.....
About done with the rough assembly of the interior. Some small items left like voltage reducer for the instrument cluster and windshield wiper installation. And the big stuff like glass and seat upholstery.
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I think these are 52 Ford hubcaps. Another EBay bargain. The tires are BFG 225-75r15s mounted on mid-70s F-100 wheels. a tad smaller than stock but fill the wheel wells satisfactorily...........I think Mater Still looks pretty homely, it will take a few more accessories. I think the faded door lettering will perk it up too.
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Gauges
I wanted to add mechanical gauges, I wasn't to excited about hanging them below the dash and cutting holes was out of the question. I came up with this idea. I'm supprised someone hasn't made these commercially?
I used a piece of 1/4" rod to form the outside and give it some depth and then welded a piece of 20 ga sheet steel inside of it. I welded 2- 10/32 screws to the back and it bolts through the speaker mounting holes.
Hind sight being 20-20, I should have welded the steel inside so the rod formed a raised bead to match the stock gauge cluster......oh well, movin' on.........
I used a piece of 1/4" rod to form the outside and give it some depth and then welded a piece of 20 ga sheet steel inside of it. I welded 2- 10/32 screws to the back and it bolts through the speaker mounting holes.
Hind sight being 20-20, I should have welded the steel inside so the rod formed a raised bead to match the stock gauge cluster......oh well, movin' on.........
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Throttle bell crank
I took the bell crank assm. off to add a stiffener so I took a picture, it won't win any beauty contest but seems to function well.
When bolted to the carb base (post 71) it allows access to the adjustment screws and vacuum port.
When bolted to the carb base (post 71) it allows access to the adjustment screws and vacuum port.