Door Lock Actuator Replacement
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 262
Likes: 1
From: Cherryville, NC
Door Lock Actuator Replacement
I'm looking for info, have never done this. Mine are frozen. I have the door panels off and have replaced both power window regulators and the speakers. I want to replace the door lock actuators before I put the door panels back on. I don't care if the ones I have are good, I want new ones.
The problem is I can't see them or the linkages. I have factory Ford service manuals and they are not enough for me to figure this out.
I found this: 1987 - 1996 F-Series / Bronco Power Door Lock Actuator Replacement - Ford Trucks
But haven't found other good tips. Can you tell me if there are other threads I should read?
It's clear to me that someone that knows how to do this can do it, and I thought about paying to have mine done, but I would rather figure it out and do it myself.
I hope to gather enough information to successfully change my door lock actuators, and add to this thread so anyone can do theirs.
Thanks guys.
The problem is I can't see them or the linkages. I have factory Ford service manuals and they are not enough for me to figure this out.
I found this: 1987 - 1996 F-Series / Bronco Power Door Lock Actuator Replacement - Ford Trucks
But haven't found other good tips. Can you tell me if there are other threads I should read?
It's clear to me that someone that knows how to do this can do it, and I thought about paying to have mine done, but I would rather figure it out and do it myself.
I hope to gather enough information to successfully change my door lock actuators, and add to this thread so anyone can do theirs.
Thanks guys.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,006
Likes: 72
From: Roseville, MN
I don't think you need much more than that post. It's pretty complete.
I did drill out the rivet when I took out one of the rear door actuators in my Crew Cab. I replaced it with a bolt since I didn't have a big enough rivet puller. That worked OK, but I don't know if it will be possible to get it out again later because there's no way to get a wrench on the nut inside the door.
There are some other threads on here about door actuators. Here's one that's mainly on finding less expensive alternatives to the $395 replacements for crew cab rear doors. But there are more if you do a search. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...actuators.html
I did drill out the rivet when I took out one of the rear door actuators in my Crew Cab. I replaced it with a bolt since I didn't have a big enough rivet puller. That worked OK, but I don't know if it will be possible to get it out again later because there's no way to get a wrench on the nut inside the door.
There are some other threads on here about door actuators. Here's one that's mainly on finding less expensive alternatives to the $395 replacements for crew cab rear doors. But there are more if you do a search. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...actuators.html
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
From: Sumter SC
That link is a pretty good description of how to do it. I did my driver's side and drilled out the rivet, didn't know any better. You need to get a good look at how it's put together to understand what he is talking about. That takes a light and I think I used an inspection mirror to see how it goes together. the only advantage to drilling the rivet is you can pull it out as a unit and see how it all fits. but like he says, takes a large rivet and a power rivet tool to set it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I did both of my '89's. I had rivets and gun, so it was not a big deal to me.
What I did find out, is that the actuator is just a motor, not a soleniod. It actually screws up/down to raise/lower the lock. So you have to set the linkage just so that it works correctly and does not unscrew completely. Not a huge deal, but worth mentioning I guess. Make sure to put some light oil on the threads also to keep it working smoothly. Mine get stiff in the winter and don't pop up as quick.
What I don't like is the way the actuator is mounted(rubber bushing sitting in a hanger) and they seem to, after a few years, not want to stay in place. If the lock gets stiff, it will literally pull the actuator out of the hanger. Stupid design.
What I did find out, is that the actuator is just a motor, not a soleniod. It actually screws up/down to raise/lower the lock. So you have to set the linkage just so that it works correctly and does not unscrew completely. Not a huge deal, but worth mentioning I guess. Make sure to put some light oil on the threads also to keep it working smoothly. Mine get stiff in the winter and don't pop up as quick.
What I don't like is the way the actuator is mounted(rubber bushing sitting in a hanger) and they seem to, after a few years, not want to stay in place. If the lock gets stiff, it will literally pull the actuator out of the hanger. Stupid design.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 425
Likes: 44
From: Everett, WA
Maybe my '90 is different but i was able to loosen the door latch (is that what hits the striker) in the door and pull the motor down. It unclipped from the bracket held in by the rivet. I plugged in the new motor, connected the linkage and clipped it back into the bracket. It has been working perfect for 6 months now.
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