Need some info on replacing the bushings in the rear springs on my 54 F250. I have the box off of the truck and noticed the bushings look like they might be worn. I am guessing it would be simpler to do it now, before I put the box back on. Should I just order bushings, or also eye pins and hanger pins? What I could find about springs is saying it is a tough job, can anyone give me a quick description of what's involved removing pins and replacing the bushings. LMC Truck sells parts individually only, while Mid Fifty sells a kit, but doesn't designate if the kit is for F150, F250 or both. Not crazy about starting this project now, but would hate to have to take the box off again later to do it.

 

Buy from a sponsor if you can.
DC list a kit for 1/2 ton. and, individual parts show different and same nos. for 1/2 and 3/4 ton. I'd give Mid-fifty a call.
My book shows B3TZ 5630-A kit as for Model D (3/4 ton),J and Y

You will need a bushing driver/installer and reamer to fit the pins to the bushings. Years ago I used a drill bit because I didn't have a reamer at that time.

 

Check out this page from bottom and up

You can open each post for more details

DinnerHill SpeedShop: Rear suspension

 

same but for the front suspension

DinnerHill SpeedShop: Front suspension

 

We do have a kit that does fit a F-250, it is below

Most of our F250 parts will start with F2-

You can also go to the F250-up category, and use the filter search box to just search in that category

F250-350 Rear Spring Pins & Shackle Bushing Kit

And here is our instructions we send out with new springs, they might help a bit

Instructions - Rear spring

 

OK, this appears to be much more involved than I anticipated. If I am following info correctly, it appears once the new bushings are installed into the springs they may compress and need to be reamed out.
Problem 1: I don't have a press.
Problem 2: I don't have a reamer. (Think I read somewhere you could drill them out but I can't imagine I could drill it without making oblong holes.
Does the spring have to be taken off completely to insert the new bushings or could it be done while attached to the axle? (Can they be tapped in with the bushing driver tool I saw could be purchased?)
Does anyone have more detailed pictures of the process?
This may be a job I need to have someone else do for me.

 

In my opinion, A brake hone could be used successfully to hone the bushings once installed. A large C clamp should work to press the bushings into the springs. A bench vise works quite well.
When you're this far into it, check your center bolts.

 

Regarding tapping the bushings in place .......well I would say maybe...it depends.

If you get the turned brass ones they are a bit softer than stock rolled ones, that means that if you are using a hammer and installer punch it is really easy to damage the edges so that it becomes really hard to get them in place (the diameter increses due to the side damages)

If using an air hammer and installer punch, that is actually better as it is easier to get everything straight when hitting.

best is to press them in, c-clamp or a threaded bar with some washers and nuts...

The stock rolled bronze composite ones is actually harder and takes the beating better.

Regarding reemer or hooning tool

reemer is made to create a round hole in a specific tolerance,

hooing tool is to create a surface finish for sealing and lubrication carrying purpose. It can never make an oval hole round. Sure it is possible to make the hole larger untill the pin falls thru. But then you have a lower amount of load carrying surface that will wear down faster and give you the play again.

adjustable reemers for brass bronz bearing material are available for decent money. A good investment..

just my ten cent

 

Reamers such as
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-11-Piece-Adjustable-Hand-Reamer-Set/281105290404?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dd50b5ac0ca4f4b90a3d2f88c1a639cb2%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20131003132420%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D330919956166&rt=nc

 

Point taken on choosing the correct tool. Know the tool and your ability and skill to use it. From a non engineering standpoint, a hone will, in the correct hands, provide a fit that is suitable for any spring shackle pin application on an old truck. The last sets of spring bushings I did, only one required a slight touch up with a hone. I was careful when pressing in the bushings so as to not distort them. If I had been in possession of a suitable reamer, I would have certainly used it.

 

I've done this job on my F-1, front and rear, lots of people have. It usually grows into a complete refurbishment of the springs, pins, bushings, etc., maybe even the brakes. IMO if you have the money, it's a great candidate for taking in to a truck suspension place. They can do it in 1/4 the time, and not a lot of cash. They have the presses, they can disassemble and clean the springs, they have lifts and axle supports... it's easy to write a check! BTW the shop here had the pins and bushings through their normal supply channels at virtually the same price, and no shipping. You usually have to replace the U-bolts, and they have those too.

 

All good info to know, thanks for the input. I don't think I am ready to tackle it myself. Think you might be right about having a suspension place do front and rears and do a complete go through.