4.9 Engine Issue
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 52
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From: Dana Point, CA
4.9 Engine Issue
I have seen this posted before but have never seen an answer. I have a "94 E-250 with 140,000 miles that I purchase from a school district auction (so I do not have any history). The engine bucks and momentarily cuts out while driving. I ran the codes and fixed them but the problem persists. I have found that if I hold the key past "run" (toward start, but not engaging the starter) until the ABS light comes on, the van runs fine. I do not think this is an ignition or keyswitch problem. I think that holding the key this way bypasses a sensor or circuit that is the real culprit. I can't prove this though. What I have noticed when the key is held past run is the following:
The turn signals no longer work
The vent fan motor no longer works
The van shifting changes to a shift kit feeling (hard shift)
The trans wants to downshift to 1st unless I'm going over 25mph.
I've gotten really good at driving it this way but it's a pain. On long trips I use a small pair of vice grips on the key that uses the shift lever to hold it in the right place.
I'm getting ready to take a test light and probe the ignition switch not the key switch) to see what contacts I am opening and what contacts I am closing when I tweak the key past "run".
The turn signals no longer work
The vent fan motor no longer works
The van shifting changes to a shift kit feeling (hard shift)
The trans wants to downshift to 1st unless I'm going over 25mph.
I've gotten really good at driving it this way but it's a pain. On long trips I use a small pair of vice grips on the key that uses the shift lever to hold it in the right place.
I'm getting ready to take a test light and probe the ignition switch not the key switch) to see what contacts I am opening and what contacts I am closing when I tweak the key past "run".
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
Either the key switch is shot, or the activating rod from the key switch to the starter switch is bent/dislodged.
Best to pull off the steering column cover and check what you have going on in there, I would not be surprised you find the end of the key switch where there is a "T" is worn down, causing this problem.
Simply replace the key switch, and you might not need the pliers anymore.
Your shifting problems, and turn singles should work again, because your not driving around in the "start" mode, of the starter switch.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Dana Point, CA
I changed the keyswitch and the problem is still there. I have already removed, cleaned, and checked starter and activating rod. Its a tilt wheel so If memory serves me correctly, it's a two piece rod set-up. I think what I need is a color coded wiring diagram for the ignition system and a long weekend.
Other info left out of my original post:
Speedometer/Odometer do not work when key is held past "run" mode.
A mechanic had the van for a month and changed the ECM, plugs, fuel filter, pickup in the distributor, and then handed me back the van saying he could not figure it out.
Other info left out of my original post:
Speedometer/Odometer do not work when key is held past "run" mode.
A mechanic had the van for a month and changed the ECM, plugs, fuel filter, pickup in the distributor, and then handed me back the van saying he could not figure it out.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
When you had it apart, you said that you cleaned the starter.
Do you mean the Starter Switch at the end of the steering column?
Where the activating rod connects.
Was the "T" of the key switch worn or not setting in the activating rod tight?
Most problems that you wrote about are due to the key switch or the column starter switch, if you had it apart, you would notice the small copper contacts and how fragile they are, leading to most ignition problems.
The Key switch is *back* Acc/Lock/Run/Start.
You said your holding it past run, before start for it to run, so the problem is some wheres there.
I have not worked on a Ford tilt column, so I couldn't tell you if the activating rod is 2 piece or not, but when I re-build my '92 column, I seen where the tilt would be, same column just with a bar in place of the tilt.
Just a dumb question, from where you got the van from........did it have an security system on board, like an anit-theft device??
Ya know how school buses are being stolen all the time......
Reason I'm asking........alot of after market security systems fowl up alot of OEM systems when they go bad, the way there wired into the OE system.
Do you mean the Starter Switch at the end of the steering column?
Where the activating rod connects.
Was the "T" of the key switch worn or not setting in the activating rod tight?
Most problems that you wrote about are due to the key switch or the column starter switch, if you had it apart, you would notice the small copper contacts and how fragile they are, leading to most ignition problems.
The Key switch is *back* Acc/Lock/Run/Start.
You said your holding it past run, before start for it to run, so the problem is some wheres there.
I have not worked on a Ford tilt column, so I couldn't tell you if the activating rod is 2 piece or not, but when I re-build my '92 column, I seen where the tilt would be, same column just with a bar in place of the tilt.
Just a dumb question, from where you got the van from........did it have an security system on board, like an anit-theft device??
Ya know how school buses are being stolen all the time......
Reason I'm asking........alot of after market security systems fowl up alot of OEM systems when they go bad, the way there wired into the OE system.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 52
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From: Dana Point, CA
The van has no security system at all. I appreciate your help. To answer you question, the old key had more play in it which is now gone with the new keyswitch. While it was apart the keyswitch did seem fragile but the starter switch seems fairly stout. I used contact cleaner on it and lubed it very lightly.
Holding it past start also activates and deactivates several circuits. I think I am going to remove the starter switch and use jumper wires to see if I can recreate whats happening. If I can, then the problem is most likely farther down the line and not in the starter switch. I just need to find a color coded ignition wiring diagram. I'm not trying to be a cheapskate, I'm just down spending $30 here and $40 there which is probably close to $500 by now. I didn't mind buying a new keyswitch since it was only $13.00. Since it's not my daily driver, I am not sure when I will have time to do this (single dad, contractor, etc)
Holding it past start also activates and deactivates several circuits. I think I am going to remove the starter switch and use jumper wires to see if I can recreate whats happening. If I can, then the problem is most likely farther down the line and not in the starter switch. I just need to find a color coded ignition wiring diagram. I'm not trying to be a cheapskate, I'm just down spending $30 here and $40 there which is probably close to $500 by now. I didn't mind buying a new keyswitch since it was only $13.00. Since it's not my daily driver, I am not sure when I will have time to do this (single dad, contractor, etc)
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