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Does this sound like a problem that swapping out the ignition key cylinder switch would fix - my problems are: it won't move to acc position, though my manual says it sound got to acc full CCW - also it won't start with the key - for a while moving the tilt wheel to a different position helped it start (full CW) but now it's dead...I"ve been using a hotwire for the timebeing...
Would it be reasonable that the key switch could cause both these problems?
I popped the switch out and it looks ok but I don't know how to test it...
under the column, there is a small metal rod that goes from the key cylinder to the switch. if you feel around on the column under the dash you will find it. then turn the key all the way to the start position. if the rod does not move with the key cylinder, your problem is it ignition switch actuator cam. it is a small alloy piece under the tilt Assembly inside the column. cost is around $13 from ford dealer, and takes between 3 and 8 hours to put in.
thanks for your suggestions...the actuator rod does move back and forth when the key is switched so that seems to work...I loosened the switch and moved it around a bit while trying to start - no sign of engaging the starter.
(the "key on" sounds stop, but no hint of starting)
Would this suggest to replace the switch? Not sure if those likely go bad? btw my key switch will move to the acc position when removed but not when installed -
Try removing the ignition switch from the column.(2 bolts) and using a small srewdriver move the plastic slider on the switch and see if everthing is working. If yes then the gear in the cloumn that is activated by the key needs adjustment or the teeth are worn out and you are not getting the range of motion. A small bit of white grease on the rod doesnt hurt to make things move a little smoother.If no then the switch may be the culprit and they are not to expensive to replace.
I pulled the switch - it will work in all positions as you describe - however, this seems odd as when I do it, installed, with the key switch - it moves well into the spring action of the last switch position but doesn't fire. Also in my earlier experiments I noted that I could adjust the switch to get my acc position working correctly but then full key CW would only turn the key "on" and couldn't get to the spring loaded portion of the switch. -
you mentioned adjustment of the gear mechanism - can it actually adjust the amount of travel? Does this require removing the steering wheel etc?
thanks again, I seem to have a lot of info at this point hopefully someone knows what it points to...
Mike
Originally Posted by mississauga
Try removing the ignition switch from the column.(2 bolts) and using a small srewdriver move the plastic slider on the switch and see if everthing is working. If yes then the gear in the cloumn that is activated by the key needs adjustment or the teeth are worn out and you are not getting the range of motion. A small bit of white grease on the rod doesnt hurt to make things move a little smoother.If no then the switch may be the culprit and they are not to expensive to replace.
Where the key goes in there is a rack and pinion set up.This can give you more travel depending on where the gear engages the rack. Remove the key assembly and inside the shroud where it sits there is a gear that is turned by the key which moves the rack which pushes the rod to the switch. If it is not set up you wont get the travel that is needed for the switch to work in all positions. Its a trial and error thing. The last tooth on the gear must engage the last notch on the actuator or as I call it the rack. There is a small snap ring and washer that is on top of the gear which I am pretty sure that has to be removed to make the adjustment.I dont think you have to remove the steering wheel. It has been a while since did this job so the memory is not real sharp on the details.
Last edited by mississauga; Jun 5, 2006 at 07:14 PM.
Thanks for this info - in reading elsewhere I noted that the steering column is supposed to be dropped to install the switch and make the adjustment - I was doing this with the steering column still bolted on (upside down) - tonite I'll try to install a new switch with the column down and perhaps I can get the switch in the right position; if not, I'll try to rack/pinion adjust...
thanks for you help with this - the adjustment of the rack/pinion gear position solved the issue - a couple important notes for others if they go down this road - the alignment of the last gear tooth to the last slot on the rack item (that drives the rod )should be done on the end closest to you ie: key in the most forward position (start) if the key cyl were installed
- pull on the rod towards the front of the truck and align the gear tooth closest to you on the gear with the last position on the "rack" item.
also important to remove the ignition switch prior to this - and drop the steering column prior to removal of the switch to make it easier
Once the rack/pinion is adjusted, reinstall cylinder then follow the recommended practice of setting the switch to the off setting, setting the cylinder to off - pull key, and adj switch at midpoint of lash
After this - a slightly adj might be required of the switch but you'll be close -
I am amazed that I couldn't find info on this adjust of the cyl gear assembly anywhere!- many thanks to <tt><tt>mississauga!
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