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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 08:06 PM
  #16  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
low compression has allot of advantages, you can supercharge or turbocharge a low compression motor.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 08:45 PM
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ha it was a joke you ever see that one commercial?

i wasnt looking to build a race engine just looking for some info on what you all recommend an what works best.

Originally Posted by Skip1970
low compression has allot of advantages, you can supercharge or turbocharge a low compression motor.
you ever see the super stock diesel tractor pullers? they run 4 turbos with such low compression they dont want to start but once the do they create 100+ pounds of boost
 
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Old Oct 18, 2014 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by nverstopwheelie

i wasnt looking to build a race engine just looking for some info on what you all recommend an what works best.

gears is the only real way you will get a noticeable difference. imo
 
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Old Oct 18, 2014 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by hughjazz
gears is the only real way you will get a noticeable difference. imo
Okay thats what i thought
 
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 12:16 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by hughjazz
gears is the only real way you will get a noticeable difference. imo
Lower gears! The 2v v10 loves to rev, 4.30's with stock tires appears to be the best stock setup. 3.73's are for diesels.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 07:35 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by nverstopwheelie
well i run 93 in every thing cause they have sales where its the same price as 87 and i have heard 87 is the junk fuel with dirt and grime from the other 89 and 93 fuels didnt pass with so that why i run it not for the power i dont believe it changes any anyhow

Hey, I'm in PA also and I've never seen 93 sell for the same price as 87 octane, sale or special promotion. Would be a pretty bad deal for the refiner/marketer too, upgrading gasoline stocks from 87 to 93 requires millions more BTUs be put into the reforming process and it also shortens the catalyst life, that's why premium fuel costs more. The octane rating is the value that relates to the fuel's resistance to detonate, that means burn. 87 burns easier than 93, plain and simple. If a motor isn't pinging or knocking on 87 octane then all that running a higher octane will do is lighten your wallet and possibly cause some carbon buildup in your cylinders from the slower flame propagation of the higher octane gas. There is absolutely no benefit to running a high octane fuel in a stock tuned low compression engine, well I guess there is some benefit for the oil company and that helps keep my wallet full.
I would love to hear some of the other things the guys telling you that 87 is the junk fuel with dirt and grime have to say, I'll bet they have some other gems too. All grades of gasoline are run through the exact same type of filters and have to pass the exact same test standards for particulates, so keep buying premium if you want but it isn't helping you in any way.

As I have already explained in your other threads, headers and Y-pipe will do more for your V-10 than any cat back system will and gears will do even more.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2014 | 08:34 AM
  #22  
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Its a sale special promotion every sunday. im think about just doing the ebay y pipe and leave it. I know and have read every where that they love to rev i just cant put my foot into it cause theres alot of moving parts in it. Ill have to try it one of these days
 
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 06:19 PM
  #23  
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I put a Borla system (headers & cat-back)on my 1999. It really made a difference when towing. Overall power was up and towing mpg was up 1-2mpg. I would do it again in a heart beat. Saving up for my 2002. Yes the V10 loves to rev and the headers really perform at 2500rpms & up. Now not towing mpgs were only up a hair.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 07:19 PM
  #24  
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thanks what would some good shift points be for daily driving?
 
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
with a 9.2:1 compression engine, you will get no power diff between 87, 89, or 93 octane. you need to get to 10.5:1 compression ratio to benifet from 93 octane.

93 octane in a 9.2:1 engine is going to cause a lot of carbon deposits.
With custom tuning you sure can get good hp and tq increases with higher octane fuel.(ever hear of advancing the timing?) It has been proven time and time again on the chassis dyno, even on engines with a meager 9:1 CR. Basically with a stock tune you are wasting time running fuel other than 87 unless you are getting excessive detonation. As for the 93 causing a lot of carbon deposits, LOL.



OP there are good increases with with long tube headers.(Doug Thorley and Banks) I run the Doug Thorleys on my truck. They helped power throughout the rpm range including off idle torque. The stock exhaust manifolds are horrible and what causes the "flutter" on the V10. While long tube headers are best there still is an improvement going with a set of short tube headers and and SPD y-pipe mod. Keeping the stock exhaust manifolds and adding the SPD y-pipe will yield exhaust flutter, which is rather annoying.

thanks what would some good shift points be for daily driving?
Depends on how fast you need to accelerate but casual driving 2k-3k rpm is sufficient. You will see that you start getting into the meat of the torque curve around 2250 rpm. From my Scangauge II I am not seeing an advantage to high engine loads at low rpm to try and get better mpg.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 11:05 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by nverstopwheelie
How do you like your mprp? loud not i want something with a little rumble but not an annoyingly loud so its not annoying when towing stuff.
Mine is a bit loud when cruising down the highway hence the reason I reccomend staying with the stock piping. Several have mentioned just swapping mufflers for a decent rumble/ exhaust note. Keep in mind these engines will not sound like a V8.

As far as the tunes, several members have been impressed. I don't have a tuner yet but would like to get one eventually. Things I would look at would be Headers, Tuner, Y pipe and gears for the total package of perfromance modifications. Basing most of that from everyone here on FTE.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 07:51 AM
  #27  
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Ill check them out. Thanks alot the headman headers have the y pipe included with them the only downfall i see it the not keeping collector tight but i have thought of drilling the bolt and putting a cotter pin through it so it cant move
 
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Old Oct 21, 2014 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by nverstopwheelie
Ill check them out. Thanks alot the headman headers have the y pipe included with them the only downfall i see it the not keeping collector tight but i have thought of drilling the bolt and putting a cotter pin through it so it cant move

If you read the threads on the Hedman headers and the loose socket connection you will see that the issue is the socket expanding, not the bolts working loose, the bolts get loose due to the expanding socket.
 
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