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Vary load and rpms.
Don't baby it.
Don't prolong idle or too much steady rpm's.
Don't take it to redline for 4-500 miles.
Change the oil & filter at 500 miles.
By 750 miles you should be good to beat it like a cheating wife.
Vary load and rpms.
Don't baby it.
Don't prolong idle or too much steady rpm's.
Don't take it to redline for 4-500 miles.
Change the oil & filter at 500 miles.
By 750 miles you should be good to beat it like a cheating wife.
Haha, thanks for that. I'd like to run synthetic oil in this engine. Any good brands you would suggest using?
Appreciate the help guys. I plan on recording the first startup so I'll share it with y'all.
Here's what I plan on doing, tell me if it sounds good: use a break in oil and prime the oil really well and spin the motor over with the plugs out for a bit. Start the engine up and let it idle on its own for a couple minutes to warm up. Then shut her down, check for leaks. Then for the next 750-1000 miles vary the rpms, no extended idling or steady cruising. No high rpms (>3000) and no WOT. Then after the 750-1000 miles, change the oil and filter with normal motor oil and drive normal.
--make sure it's tight and not leaking or overheating when you first fire it up.
--run it easy, keep the revs low for your first outing. Pay attention to leakes, heat, oil pressure.
--once you have run it long enough to check for leaks, oil pressure, funny noises etc, give it a short burst of WOT.
--If all is ok, include some WOT in each run.
Wide open throttle produces the most cylinder pressure, and that's what forces the rings into the cylinder walls, and that's what wears the rings in properly and "seats" them, making for a good seal.
--make sure it's tight and not leaking or overheating when you first fire it up.
--run it easy, keep the revs low for your first outing. Pay attention to leakes, heat, oil pressure.
--once you have run it long enough to check for leaks, oil pressure, funny noises etc, give it a short burst of WOT.
--If all is ok, include some WOT in each run.
Wide open throttle produces the most cylinder pressure, and that's what forces the rings into the cylinder walls, and that's what wears the rings in properly and "seats" them, making for a good seal.
Good luck with it.
Thanks man. So its ok to get the rpms up pretty high during the wot?
To add to 85e150six...,
Be sure to set your ignition timing correctly before hitting the road.
You don't want advanced detonation or retarded overheating to hurt your new engine.
Opening the throttle plates allows the cylinders to fill completely.
People break in engines on the dyno all the time.
WFO is different than taking it to the moon and keeping it there.
To add to 85e150six...,
Be sure to set your ignition timing correctly before hitting the road.
You don't want advanced detonation or retarded overheating to hurt your new engine.
Opening the throttle plates allows the cylinders to fill completely.
People break in engines on the dyno all the time.
WFO is different than taking it to the moon and keeping it there.
I don't know what the red line is, I've never reved it that high.
And did you mean wot? Not sure what wfo means lol.
I'll make sure to check the timing with a light while cranking before the first start.
Wide F****** Open!
You need to check the timing at idle with the vacuum or Spark OUT disconnected.
Like explained on the emissions sticker.
Just set it static and start the engine.
You won't hurt rollers like you would a flat tappet cam.