New Engine Advice
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New Engine Advice
Hey guys, I'm putting a reman long block in my truck here very soon. I have a 90 f150 5.0. I figured while I was at it I would upgrade and put in a roller 94-96 f150 engine. I have heard there is no break in period with a roller engine, but do you guys have any tips for installation/first startup? This is my first time removing and installing an engine. I already have everything on my old engine removed except for the oil pan, bell housing bolts, and motor mounts.
Tanner
Tanner
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From: Eastern Ky
Hey guys, I'm putting a reman long block in my truck here very soon. I have a 90 f150 5.0. I figured while I was at it I would upgrade and put in a roller 94-96 f150 engine. I have heard there is no break in period with a roller engine, but do you guys have any tips for installation/first startup? This is my first time removing and installing an engine. I already have everything on my old engine removed except for the oil pan, bell housing bolts, and motor mounts.
Tanner
Tanner
Perhaps do a second oil change after it's driven a couple days, just incase there's some metal bits or junk in the oil passageways.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: South Central,MO
Breaking in your new or rebuilt engine
This is for a carbed and hyd lifter engine, but a lot of it still applies. Especially the part about seating the rings.
This is for a carbed and hyd lifter engine, but a lot of it still applies. Especially the part about seating the rings.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: South Central,MO
How to break-in a new engine - National automotive news | Examiner.com
This guy agrees with some of the previous info and provides useful but contradictory info on some other stuff.
This guy agrees with some of the previous info and provides useful but contradictory info on some other stuff.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2009
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From: Eastern Ky
Remove the Serpentine Belt, and Spark Plugs, and use a breaker bar and socket to spin the engine over....
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Just pull the dizzy and use a 1/4" (5/16 for 351 & big block) deep socket and extension (taped together!) in a drill.
You will never turn the engine over by the crank enough to get oil to the rockers.
I have a cool set of 1/4" hex to square drive socket adapters that allow me to do this with my battery impact driver.
You will never turn the engine over by the crank enough to get oil to the rockers.
I have a cool set of 1/4" hex to square drive socket adapters that allow me to do this with my battery impact driver.
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From: Eastern Ky
Good info though!
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yes you still want to brake the motor in. It is a new motor so you want all your bearings and rings to brake in. I think you may be thinking of a cam swap from flat tappet to roller. Use some zinc additive for your break in. 1500 miles of easy riding will get everything set. Swap out your oil and you are good to go. Good time to start using synthetic if that is the type oil you prefer.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Thank you both, Jim & Wes! 
With a roller lifters there is really no excess heat produced while the lifter 'marries' to the cam lobe and polishes the carburized surface that comes from the hardening/heat treating process.
I've never found a need for EOS or other ZDDP additive, but would definitely use liberal amounts of whatever assembly lube the cam manufacturer supplies.
Back in the day we used STP straight from the bottle as an assembly lube.
There's no need to run an engine at 2000+ rpm for 20 minutes like you need with flat tappets.
This is done to ensure that lots of oil flushes any microscopic grit and is constantly cooling the friction surfaces that are under so much spring pressure.
I'm a little hard on engine break-in.
You NEED to develop enough combustion pressure to properly seat the rings.
Otherwise the cylinders will glaze and they might never seat.
I don't put my engines under -sustained- loads.
That would be counterproductive.
'Drive it like you stole it' and 'break it in fast and it will BE fast' are both comments from very respected engine builders.
I'm just another hobbyist, so my experience is limited.
With a roller lifters there is really no excess heat produced while the lifter 'marries' to the cam lobe and polishes the carburized surface that comes from the hardening/heat treating process.
I've never found a need for EOS or other ZDDP additive, but would definitely use liberal amounts of whatever assembly lube the cam manufacturer supplies.
Back in the day we used STP straight from the bottle as an assembly lube.
There's no need to run an engine at 2000+ rpm for 20 minutes like you need with flat tappets.
This is done to ensure that lots of oil flushes any microscopic grit and is constantly cooling the friction surfaces that are under so much spring pressure.
I'm a little hard on engine break-in.
You NEED to develop enough combustion pressure to properly seat the rings.
Otherwise the cylinders will glaze and they might never seat.
I don't put my engines under -sustained- loads.
That would be counterproductive.
'Drive it like you stole it' and 'break it in fast and it will BE fast' are both comments from very respected engine builders.
I'm just another hobbyist, so my experience is limited.