Hey guys, I'm putting a reman long block in my truck here very soon. I have a 90 f150 5.0. I figured while I was at it I would upgrade and put in a roller 94-96 f150 engine. I have heard there is no break in period with a roller engine, but do you guys have any tips for installation/first startup? This is my first time removing and installing an engine. I already have everything on my old engine removed except for the oil pan, bell housing bolts, and motor mounts.

Tanner

 

Roller motors are easy just prime the motor with a drill before firing it for the first time and you're good.

 

Only thing I can think of is take it easy on it for 500-1,000 miles, doing regular oil changes, and perhaps fill the engine up on oil and prime the oil pump before initial startup.

Perhaps do a second oil change after it's driven a couple days, just incase there's some metal bits or junk in the oil passageways.

 

Breaking in your new or rebuilt engine

This is for a carbed and hyd lifter engine, but a lot of it still applies. Especially the part about seating the rings.

 

How to break-in a new engine - National automotive news | Examiner.com

This guy agrees with some of the previous info and provides useful but contradictory info on some other stuff.

 

Thanks guys. What is the oil priming tool called and where can I get one?

Tanner

 

Remove the Serpentine Belt, and Spark Plugs, and use a breaker bar and socket to spin the engine over....

 

That will be sufficient? Sounds pretty good to me

Tanner

 

Just pull the dizzy and use a 1/4" (5/16 for 351 & big block) deep socket and extension (taped together!) in a drill.

You will never turn the engine over by the crank enough to get oil to the rockers.

I have a cool set of 1/4" hex to square drive socket adapters that allow me to do this with my battery impact driver.

 

That sounds like a better idea, thanks.

Tanner

 

Jim, I tried to rep you for that nice chunk of info, but alas I'm in Rep Jail.

Good info though!

 

Got him for you.

 

yes you still want to brake the motor in. It is a new motor so you want all your bearings and rings to brake in. I think you may be thinking of a cam swap from flat tappet to roller. Use some zinc additive for your break in. 1500 miles of easy riding will get everything set. Swap out your oil and you are good to go. Good time to start using synthetic if that is the type oil you prefer.

 

Thank you both, Jim & Wes!

With a roller lifters there is really no excess heat produced while the lifter 'marries' to the cam lobe and polishes the carburized surface that comes from the hardening/heat treating process.

I've never found a need for EOS or other ZDDP additive, but would definitely use liberal amounts of whatever assembly lube the cam manufacturer supplies.
Back in the day we used STP straight from the bottle as an assembly lube.

There's no need to run an engine at 2000+ rpm for 20 minutes like you need with flat tappets.
This is done to ensure that lots of oil flushes any microscopic grit and is constantly cooling the friction surfaces that are under so much spring pressure.

I'm a little hard on engine break-in.
You NEED to develop enough combustion pressure to properly seat the rings.
Otherwise the cylinders will glaze and they might never seat.
I don't put my engines under -sustained- loads.
That would be counterproductive.

'Drive it like you stole it' and 'break it in fast and it will BE fast' are both comments from very respected engine builders.
I'm just another hobbyist, so my experience is limited.

 

So, how exactly should I break the engine in? I'm a bit confused. Rev it up hard or give it heck down the road? Then change the oil after a bit of driving

Tanner