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I start the jamb plate fabrication with a piece of 16 Ga steel that has been formed on both sides as in photo 1. I then trim the flanges to fit the door jamb. In photo 2 you can see how the trimmed/welded plate is fit to the door jamb. Once the jamb plate is in place (not welded, just fitted) I use the Altman latch that has been installed in the door to locate the spot on the jamb plate where I want the striker pin positioned. I then drill the hole in the jamb plate to mount the striker pin. In the last photo there is a generic bear claw installation kit that shows the floating nut assy that mounts behind the jamb plate...this is the nut plate that holds the striker pin and makes it adjustable. Since these photos were taken I have moved on to a more custom setup...Direct Sheetmetal fabricates the parts for me so all I have to do is weld them up. That kit in the last photo is a little pricey so I am saving some cash having them made. Hope this helps...
Where are you buying the generic bear claw installation kit in the above picture from? I am using the rocky hinge brand and their latch plate is 5/8 thick causing a slight issue with fitment behind the stiker plate and door jamb.
I forget where I bought the one in the photo but like I said, I fabricate my own now so I don't buy that one any longer. Here is another pic of a slant cab that I am finishing up...the gap between the door and the jamb was larger than normal so I had to use a spacer behind the striker pin. I think that it worked out well.
Strikers complete, both doors. Ready for filler and finish
Started raising the rear floor. When I laid a sheet of plywood down the high points of the frame hit the plywood approx. 3/16- into ply. I am raising floor by 3/4 of an inch to cure that issue. A sheet of 16 ga steel on top than I will use 1X6 Oak or ?? with stainless bed strips. More pics later today I want to go back out and work some more before dark.<br/>
Another note. While figuring out the issue with the rear floor I found that the rear coils I chose to use have settled 1 1/2 inches as I add weight.
I have a 96 Lincoln MK 8 rear installed using 67-72 c-10 chev 2" lower rear coils, so I will have to use the stock coils to bring it back up. I still have seats to add plus the weight of a full gas tank.
The original plywood in these floors had a dado relief for the frame, something I noticed on mine when I removed it..
Thanx John I have been racking my brain about that and came to that same conclusion and nice to know that it was so.
Your rear floor in your panel was the final pc that made me make my mind up to do it.
Thanx for the inquiry. I have had a few family issues and a lack of interest. I am resolving to get back into it soon after the holidays, it has been on my mind alot lately. I have been working on body work tho, slowly but slowly. I have found some door panel issues and having to use to much filler so am doing some massaging. As you know I already did the altman latches before I picked up on the issue, so a little disappointing. Will post when I have something positive to show.