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  #61  
Old 04-11-2017, 07:58 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tallation.html

As far as I know Charlie is the designer of this part. He is one of the finest in new mod designs in my eyes
 
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Old 04-11-2017, 08:29 PM
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I start the jamb plate fabrication with a piece of 16 Ga steel that has been formed on both sides as in photo 1. I then trim the flanges to fit the door jamb. In photo 2 you can see how the trimmed/welded plate is fit to the door jamb. Once the jamb plate is in place (not welded, just fitted) I use the Altman latch that has been installed in the door to locate the spot on the jamb plate where I want the striker pin positioned. I then drill the hole in the jamb plate to mount the striker pin. In the last photo there is a generic bear claw installation kit that shows the floating nut assy that mounts behind the jamb plate...this is the nut plate that holds the striker pin and makes it adjustable. Since these photos were taken I have moved on to a more custom setup...Direct Sheetmetal fabricates the parts for me so all I have to do is weld them up. That kit in the last photo is a little pricey so I am saving some cash having them made. Hope this helps...
 
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Old 04-11-2017, 10:57 PM
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Charlie

Where are you buying the generic bear claw installation kit in the above picture from? I am using the rocky hinge brand and their latch plate is 5/8 thick causing a slight issue with fitment behind the stiker plate and door jamb.
 
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Old 04-11-2017, 11:03 PM
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I forget where I bought the one in the photo but like I said, I fabricate my own now so I don't buy that one any longer. Here is another pic of a slant cab that I am finishing up...the gap between the door and the jamb was larger than normal so I had to use a spacer behind the striker pin. I think that it worked out well.
 
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Old 04-11-2017, 11:06 PM
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  #66  
Old 04-11-2017, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CharlieLed View Post
Thanx

That place is about 15 miles from me, I will drive over there tomorrow.
 
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Old 05-27-2017, 02:45 PM
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Door latches complete, both doors



Strikers complete, both doors. Ready for filler and finish



Started raising the rear floor. When I laid a sheet of plywood down the high points of the frame hit the plywood approx. 3/16- into ply. I am raising floor by 3/4 of an inch to cure that issue. A sheet of 16 ga steel on top than I will use 1X6 Oak or ?? with stainless bed strips. More pics later today I want to go back out and work some more before dark.<br/>
 
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Old 05-27-2017, 02:50 PM
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The original plywood in these floors had a dado relief for the frame, something I noticed on mine when I removed it..
 
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Old 05-27-2017, 02:50 PM
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Another note. While figuring out the issue with the rear floor I found that the rear coils I chose to use have settled 1 1/2 inches as I add weight.
I have a 96 Lincoln MK 8 rear installed using 67-72 c-10 chev 2" lower rear coils, so I will have to use the stock coils to bring it back up. I still have seats to add plus the weight of a full gas tank.
 
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Old 05-27-2017, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 56panelford View Post
The original plywood in these floors had a dado relief for the frame, something I noticed on mine when I removed it..
Thanx John I have been racking my brain about that and came to that same conclusion and nice to know that it was so.
Your rear floor in your panel was the final pc that made me make my mind up to do it.
 
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Old 05-27-2017, 09:50 PM
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Ready for the 16 ga deck




Raised the sides also do not have a bead roller, strips pf 3/4 ply underneath, glued down.
 
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Old 05-27-2017, 10:02 PM
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passenger side rear




Passenger side front




Driver side front.<br/>Next step is laying out the deck sheet, all access holes and bed strip weld nuts and than weld to frame
 
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Old 05-28-2017, 10:22 AM
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I like the way you've done that Gerry
 
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