I bought the truck as a 1983 F250 diesel with some issues.
I've been more than a little overwhelmed by these issues.

The seller said the truck had new batteries and a broken glow plug.
He started it cold for me in warm weather with the aid of a charger.
He said the charger was needed because of the glow plug problem, though I thought it was cranking slow.

Drove it the few miles home and it seemed okay.
The next day I tried to start it with no charge-assist.
Then, I put a charger on it and got it to start after a couple of attempts, but clearly cranking very slowly.

I'd think about it and fiddle with it occasionally, but finally got distracted and didn't mess with it for several years.
I did farm the batteries out to a couple other vehicles and they seemed to perfom normally.
Recently I've begun thinking there may be a problem with the starter.
I know a capable starter rebuilder.

The starter looks like pretty tight quarters and more mounting bolts (4?) than I've seen before.
I also didn't see the battery wiring connections and couldn't see how to get a wrench on them.
All I can see of the starter is from below.
Feeling around the starter I think I've found one bolt location with no bolt.
So perhaps someone else has experienced the same problem understanding how to get to these bolts.

I'm thinking of removing the two bolts I can see just to find out if that is all holding the starter on.

So, if anyone could describe the procedure of getting to the starter I would appreciate it.
Thanks.
Dale

 

First, LOAD test BOTH batteries, in isolation from one another (disconnect one of the negatives).

Also, try disconnecting the glow plugs and crank it. Not to try to start it, just to see if it cranks faster with the GPs disconnected. It might be expected to crank a _little_ faster without the GPs, but if there's a big difference, then indeed there's a GP problem; one or more plugs is drawing too much, or there's excessive resistance in the relay or some such. If that's the case, you need to address it, rather than relying on some sort of external assist.

Three bolts mounting the starter. Actually a fair amount of room under there. Only the top bolt is a little tricky, you're doing it mostly by feel, but the right socket extension(s) should get 'er. Re-install option - install a stud of the proper thread size in that top hole; this would act as a "locater" when re-installing it. Also. wad up some tape inside the socket so the bolt (or nut, if you opt for the stud) will stay put as you line it up. Two wires - larger one is for the motor, smaller one is for the solenoid. Make sure to disconnect BOTH battery negatives BEFORE putting a wrench to the nuts for those wire terminals.

If the rebuilder you know is one of those old guys left over from the days when we actually had local shops that worked on things in this country, before our benevolent corporate friends shipped so much skilled labor overseas, then that's a much preferred option over the "lifetime warranty" reman FLAPS cr@p. Chances are, he'll also do a much better job testing your starter before doing anything with it.

What kind of shape are the main battery (pos and neg) cables in?

 

I read your reply on Saturday in an email notification, then lost wifi connection. I'm, just now able to respond.
But, I'm about to go out of town and probably won't have a chance to do anything with the truck for the next week.

I did get a chance, today, to look at the truck.
The batteries that came with it have been re-purposed and are several years old.

I will have to get new batteries for testing.
Would one fresh battery suffice for testing the cranking, if cranking with a starter test switch and all other systems turned off?
I'd just like to avoid getting more extra batteries, before resolving the cranking issue.

I tried to remove the starter today, since I'll be going to the town where the starter rebuilder guy lives.
He's around 40 and sort of grew up in his uncle's starter/alternator shop in Kokomo.
He's got a job. He does the rebuilding as a sideline.

I decided against removing the starter, today.
Even with your instructions I'm still intimidated by the top mounting bolt.
The only way I could see to wrench it, is from inside the RF wheel well, behind the spring tower, with about 2 feet of 3/8 " drive extensions and a universal at the socket, after removing a thick splash cover behind the spring tower for access, (which I have done.)
That was the only way I was able to see or feel the bolt head.
I think I could change the starter this way, if I need to.
Please explain if you know an alternate method.

I would have continued trying to remove it, in spite of my trepidation, but I wanted to discuss some other issues with you, before I did.

1. The original battery connection to the solenoid is still in the truck.
It looks like about 2-0 cable.
However, this cable has been bypassed, probably because the connector is broken at the solenoid end of the cable.
The replacement cable is 2 AWG.
2 AWG probably has less than half the current-carrying capacity as 2-0, so it seems to me that the 2-0 should be restored.
It looks like it would be difficult to get the cable off the truck (it seems to be clamped in an inaccessible location.)
I'll inquire about available materials for replacing the connector on the truck.
Access to the cable end appears ample.
Otherwise, the battery cables look fair.
Battery connectors look a little beat up and I noticed the crossover positive cable had about 20 broken strands at the passenger side battery connector.

2.When I was messing with the starter today, I found that none of the mounting bolts were torqued, suggesting to me that someone else had already removed the starter in a futile attempt to solve the cranking problem.
Did they have the starter bench tested?
I would have tested it, if I had removed it.

Another problem with the truck I was unable to diagnose was an electrical fault that would substantially discharge the battery overnight.
I isolated the fault with a switch, so I wouldn't have to disconnect the battery every time I walked away from it.
I had to turn this isolation switch on to crank the engine with the ignition switch, as I recall.
I don't think I ever cranked it with the fault isolated.

So I think I should follow your recommendation to eliminate other possible causes before moving on to a starter bench test.

I appreciate your attention to my situation with the truck.
Dale

 

Well, I had a chance to work on the truck today and was able to get the original cable off.
I had a disastrous experience with the cable after the local Interstate battery store assured me of its expertise at replacing a 2-0 cable end.
Will recount within the next couple of weeks if anyone is interested in a sad story of condescendingly incompetent store personnel.
Suffice to say here that Interstate's expertise with 2-0 automotive connectors is scant and they are indifferent to acknowledging or rectifying that deficit.
I'm still trying to get out of town for a week.
Dale.