Adjustable valve train conversion
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Adjustable valve train conversion
I want to see if anybody knows the part number.... It has been a while since I last did this, 5+ years, but once again I find myself using 5.0 HO heads on an engine.... which means need the ARP part number for the conversion studs, the ones that are 5/16 on the end that threads into the heads, but 7/16 on the end that the roller rockers attach to.... Anybody have the part number?
If not can anybody tell me is you cut and thread the hold for the standard 7/16 studs does this change rocker arm geometry... as in do I need to get new pushrods...
Thanks....
If not can anybody tell me is you cut and thread the hold for the standard 7/16 studs does this change rocker arm geometry... as in do I need to get new pushrods...
Thanks....
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
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From: south louisiana
I used the conversion studs on a 400M build. Won't do that again. Had a couple that would not stay tight in the head no matter what I did. On drilling the heads, not sure but to use guide plates you'll need to cut the pedestals down the thickness of the plates.
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I got the part number, they are comp cams parts, not ARP, 4504-16 for 16 of them. Baddad, I have used these guys in the past without any problems. When I installed them I used loctite red and cleaned the holes with brake cleaner. If loctite does not work i advance to def-con 5 and use red pipe thread varnish set and that generally gets anything, but is a real bear to get apart!
My experience with these things was using cams with 1/2" or less lift and running full roller rockers.... They work great.
As for the pedestal height... You do not need to worry all that... Just get slightly longer push tubes!!!!
This will allow me to use on-hand parts and even if i need new pushrods i will still be less than the pedestal mount adjustable roller rockers i would use.
My experience with these things was using cams with 1/2" or less lift and running full roller rockers.... They work great.
As for the pedestal height... You do not need to worry all that... Just get slightly longer push tubes!!!!
This will allow me to use on-hand parts and even if i need new pushrods i will still be less than the pedestal mount adjustable roller rockers i would use.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
I did all that too on those 400 heads. And those two still worked loose. Better check the geometry after installing longer pushrods, cause that'll change everything. The distance between the pushrod and valve stem will change with a longer pushrod, thus changing the geometry when the rocker is in motion.
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In my experience, every time i change cams, rockers, lifters, heads the pushrods need to be changed.... Luckily re-sizing the pushrods is about the easiest thing to do.... A lot will depend on how the rockers end up sitting on the studs... I am changing out the lifters because i hammered them out... So in am sure the push tubes will have to re-sized.... If i were you i would have pulled the ultimate rig job... Used plumbing teflon tape on the threads and red varnish gasoila lock set!!!!! I did that with a head bolt on a racing engine... It never failed!!!! Lol
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I wanted to give everybody a heads up about this conversion: I used the comp cams conversion studs 4504-16 and Ford Motorsports Guideplates, M-6566-D311 and was able to use the stock pushrods with the stock 5.0 HO heads. These guide plates area really awesome in that they are the same thickness as the guides that are pulled off with the stock non-adjustable valve train, and therefore allow you to convert to an adjustable valve train without machine work to the heads.
One piece of advice is when installing the conversion studs use brake cleaner and the small straw to clean out the 5/16 holes in the heads and blow the holes out with compressed air and a blow-gun or blow wand. Do this a couple times and then set the studs in the heads with red loc-tite.
Stock push rods worked perfectly in this application.
One last piece of info: If you are going over .500 - .530 lift you will want to have the heads machines for the thicker studs......
One piece of advice is when installing the conversion studs use brake cleaner and the small straw to clean out the 5/16 holes in the heads and blow the holes out with compressed air and a blow-gun or blow wand. Do this a couple times and then set the studs in the heads with red loc-tite.
Stock push rods worked perfectly in this application.
One last piece of info: If you are going over .500 - .530 lift you will want to have the heads machines for the thicker studs......
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