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Hpop removal

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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 03:47 PM
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From: Cameron, Ok
Hpop removal

My truck started leaking oil like it was going out of style. I needed to install a wicked wheel anyway, so I thought i'd just remove the hpop and fix the leak...I never really saw where it was leaking from. Anyway, I removed what I think are all the bolts, etc and it's still firmly attached. So did I remove the right 10mm bolts?
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 05:29 PM
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Those bolts hold your water pump on . . .
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 06:54 PM
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Did you remove the bolt from the HPOP drive gear?
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
Those bolts hold your water pump on . . .
What he said.

The fuel bowl bolts are above that.

Also, as stated. Be sure to remove the gear bolt.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 07:20 PM
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One of the BEST I've seen.

 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 10:49 PM
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Doh!

You can remove the reservoir and HPOP together as stated, or you can remove just the pump off the back side and leave the reservoir in place. I would first determine where the leak is coming from first though.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 11:23 AM
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Alright! It's just amazing when you remove the correct two bolts how easily that hpop comes out! I misread the instructions about removing the 2 10mm bolts that hold the hpop to the front cover and didn't realize they were from the back...now, waiting for parts to seal things up.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 11:28 AM
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Yeah Jason, that would be the smart thing to do...but, being the not so smart guy I am, I'm kinda' past that so I guess I'll try shotgunning it a little. I know it's not the hpop hoses as they are less than a year old. I'm going to do the non-servicable plug and the regulator assy., although I'm pretty sure anything on the high pressure side would have made it run like crap, wouldn't it? So, I'm looking for something on the low pressure side. Am I doing right?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 01:55 PM
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Probably, but I am kind of slow on the uptake myself. I know when I had o-ring leaks on the HPOP lines back in '08 or '09 they made a mess. i would start there, drivers side where the fittings come into the pump.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 05:35 PM
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So, who knows a slick way to put that whachmacallit that holds the baby butt and turbo together. I spent a coupla' hours trying different things to pull the ends together to where I could get the "t" into the slot unsuccessfully. I've done it before, but I got crs pretty bad, so....any clues appreciated.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by lartross
So, who knows a slick way to put that whachmacallit that holds the baby butt and turbo together. I spent a coupla' hours trying different things to pull the ends together to where I could get the "t" into the slot unsuccessfully. I've done it before, but I got crs pretty bad, so....any clues appreciated.
Are you talking about seating the alignment pin on the collector to the turbine housing? If so, keep the up-pipes loose from the manifolds and then do it. Tighten the up-pipes when everything is done.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 08:09 PM
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No Justin. The coupling piece is "sprung" and I couldn't get the male piece back in the female slot. I tried wire...small broke, big was too big. I'll try bare copper tomorrow.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 08:30 PM
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Larry,
Are you talking about the clamp. If the the flanges of the turbo and babys butt are not tight together it makes closing the clamp extremely tough. You may need to loosen the up pipes to get them to line up right. Get the two pieces together with little to no gap and the clamp will go on easier, not easy, but easier.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 10:09 PM
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Thanks Paul. I'm seeing the up pipes tight against the turbo, so I'm pretty sure it's together. I use a strong bungee cord to hold it together. I did this before...getting the darned clamp off, I push up on the ends and they stay pushed up. It's a lot easier to push them up than to push them down. If I did this for a living, I'd have to figure a way not to do that. I had hoped someone had figured a really easy way to deal with this deal. I'll just have to bang my head against in long enough to satisfy the gods of 7.3l's, I guess.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 07:24 PM
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I got the clamp closed by wedging some small wood pieces between the firewall and the sprung up female part of the clamp. Slipped right in and tightened right up.
 
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