When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have at least 1 injector that is sticking again when cold. I added some atf to the fuel to try and get it to free up to by me some time....the town just wiped me out on taxes
What would you recommend for replacement injectors and pump fo staying N/A for the time being? Yes I eventually would like to turbo it but for the mean time I just need something reliable for work.
I know everyone says R&D for the pump/injectors, however when reviewing the description of the pumps the lowest performance one says:
"Great upgrade for stock turbo or mildly built engines
Head studs recommended
Intercooler recommended"
And currently my engine is bone stock with an electric fuel pump...with that being said what do I do for the pump
1993 7.3 super cab auto e40d N/A 202,xxx 9'Long 9'6" tall utility body enclosed daily weight is around 8200lbs
I recently had my local injection pump shop build a pump to my specs, it was extremely affordable and he gives an excellent warranty. Also you couldnt beat the price.
Injectors i purchased new. Had them all pop tested to makesure they were within the same pressures.
Cost me a bit over $650 for everything including filter and new return lines etc.
If you are NA or get a standard turbo kit(Banks, Hypermax or ATS), a stock pump will work plenty well -- you won't get enough out of the turbo to max out that pump. Once you get the turbo, you will want to turn up the maximum fuel screw to take advantage of the extra air, but you don't need anything special.
It's only once you start getting a /big/ turbo, studs, shaved pistons and the like that you will be able to use more fuel than the stock pump can provide and need an upgraded design, like R&D makes.
That all being said, injectors should be replaced first. They'll make a difference right off, if you've got leaks.
Then replace the injection pump when you have money, and make sure you get a good rebuild -- R&D IDI Performance is one of the best rebuilders around here.
instead of adding ATF to the fuel tank, remove the fuel filter and pour it out. fill the fuel filter with AFT and put it back on. start the engine and let it idle for 30-45 seconds, then shut it off.
leave it sit for at least 24 hours, and then fire it up and run it. this should clean out the injector and buy you a few months.
I would put it in the filter except anytime i remove the filter the o-ring gasket is sooo swolen i cant get it in the groove to put the filter back on.....
i don't know anything about the emission rumors when it comes to any of the fuel injectors.most of the rumors iv read where about the turbo G codes.
all i know is that 9th gen idi trucks came with stanadyne brand fuel injectors and the N/A's got E code and optional turbo engines came with G codes.
if you want something other than oem (for whatever your reasons) that's cool too.
source of my info came from the 1993 turbo diesel coffee table book pdf as seen in this snapshot:
i guess the way i look at it is like this;
if you can just buy brand new (the boxes are individually dated with a build date) factory (built in Italy) stanadyne fuel injectors for less than $50 each and they're good for 100k miles (you personally appear to have 200k on yours right?) then why wouldn't you just go with those? what's possibly better and why? you might save a bit by going with some remans if you can find a deal for half price of new i suppose.it's hard to beat just going with some new ones though imho.iv read of mixed results with remans (i didn't have much luck with a set myself.)
as far as i know,i don't think the old idi is too picky on injector code lol.
I don't know if the originals are still in it or not...i've owned the truck for 11 months now.
Is there that much difference between the N/A and turbo injectors? Reason I ask is as soon as i can afford the cost of the parts I would like to add a turbo, so if it wont hurt anything then i just assume get the turbo injectors now or even run the BB or G codes that everyone else seems to run...
Run a new set of BB codes if you're going to swap them all out. Woke my N/A engine up.
If you only have one bad one, either pull it and soak in PB blaster, or open it up and clean it out. It's just a tip, spring and shims in there. If it's just carboned up or gunked up, it's an easy improvement. Best you can do without buying a new set or building a pop tester.
Run a new set of BB codes if you're going to swap them all out. Woke my N/A engine up.
If you only have one bad one, either pull it and soak in PB blaster, or open it up and clean it out. It's just a tip, spring and shims in there. If it's just carboned up or gunked up, it's an easy improvement. Best you can do without buying a new set or building a pop tester.
Problem with that is I dont know which one is sticking...a few months back had one sticking the freed itself up...now its sticking again, olny on startup until the truck gets warm then it clears itself up....
You might be able to clear it up with the ATF in the fuel filter trick. I started running 50/50 Power service/ATF. Fire it up for 30 seconds or so, and let it sit at least 24 hours to really get at any buildup. Even when not having any issues, you can immediately feel the difference when driving.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
