I just replaced my up pipes on my 2001 7.3 and had the turbo out. It sat for 2 weeks like that and i got it all together and it ran but rough and thew a check engine.. The codes i got are P1293
P1294
P0603
B1352
B1359
And then when i was moving the truck it stalled.. I got it started again but only ran for about 2 seconds and really rough.. Ive put a new cam positioning sensor in it and it didnt do anything (didnt have a code reader and was told to try that) what could be going on?!? Realy need to get it going

 

Moved to the 7.3 forum

 

Lets go back to the beginning of the story.




Did the truck run out before the paragraph?


Check out everything you just did if it ran. You'll find it.




Denny


If it didn't run prior......can't help.


Keep us posted, but methodically recheck your work. (right down to fuses and hose clamps.)

 

Ran fine and i was driving it then a up pipe blew off so i went and fixed all that and put new o-rings in the turbo pedistool put everything back together how it came apart . It started but ran rough .. I drove it maybe 2km (to then end of my road and back) didnt go away and it was dark so i gave up for the night.. Came bavk out the next day later in the day backed it up and it stalled .. I got it ro start but it ran really rough and that was it.. Ive changed the fuel filter, cam position sensor (after the fact) still nothing

 

And ive checked all fuses, relays, hoses, etc

 

What really knocks my socks off..............




Sorry for this, did you ingest something from your air intake into your turbo/????????????? Just sayin. 2 weeks down, we forget to wipe up..


Pull your turb intake and lets see what we see. Sounds to me from your description of events, it was slowly starving. Fuel.....uh uh. (ran fine before), Air (maybe), ...........Just sayin.


Pulling an up pipe is a clue.


Get back to us.

 

Ive checked for that to.. Trust me i hate doing the same thing twice so haha but if you spray eather in the intake it runs but only off the eather ( i know i know not good for the motor) i had someone here and he said the injectors arnt doing anything and suggested the IDM might be fryed

 

A couple questions and suggestions. Don't shoot.

1. Is there any possibility you may have left a rag in the turbo?
2. Is the Oil Level Okay?
3. Is the HPOP Oil Level Okay (it sat for some time)
4. Do you have a tool to perform a Buzz Test. Buying a IDM (or other parts) before diagnosing can hurt!
5. Can you test the Fuel Pressure?
6. Could you have damaged or disconnected a wiring harness or connector while working?

So, the basics will get you where you need to be: Adequate Air, Adequate Fuel, Adequate Oil Pressure, and communications with the PCM. If you've attempted to start it several times, I suggest the first thing you do is put a battery charger on it.

Post your findings and these guys will steer you in the right direction.

It may, or may not be something you inadvertently done. But, nonetheless, its a no start and it needs to be addressed as such in the troubleshooting process.

 

1. Theres no rag in the turbo . Ive checked for that .. It still spoiled up when it ran to

2. Oil level is good
3. HPOP is good i checked it
4, how do you do the buzz test?
5. Fuel is good (had a guy check that for me)
6 wiring is good .. I checked it to..

And i put the batturys on trickle charge

 

Okay, On my way out the door.

A Buzz Test will determine if the IDM/PCM are communicating by activating the Poppet's in the injectors. A Scan Toll or similar device is necessary to command it. Its not a confirmation the IDM is not "Bad" but it will determine communications is present.

Does the Wait To Start light illuminate and turn off in about 10-20 seconds? This gives a fair idea the PCM is at least issuing commands.

Unplug your ICP which will default to 700 PSI and report it to the PCM (minimum to attain starting).

When you crank the Engine, does the Tachometer rise to about 300 rpm? This will provide a fair indication the CPS is signaling the PCM.

Lastly, go back and re-check every fuse by pulling them and inspecting them A more accurate way is to use a DMM across them while they are installed.

You said it started with Engine Starting Fluid. DON'T use the fluid when the Glow Plugs are cycling. That's what hurts the engines.

Is there white smoke from the exhaust when you're cranking?
At minimum a strong smell of fuel if its not starting?
If not, re-check the fuel pressure.
Does the pump run for 30 seconds following Key-On?
What was it when your friend checked it?

If, all these are working as described, your going to have to remove the Turbo and inspect the EBPV for damage or blockage.

 

Not all years show RPMs on the tach while cranking. I forgot if it's pre-2002 that doesn't, or post. I'm not driving my rig right now, so I can't check.


The last link in my signature covers a lot of starting troubleshooting.