wow this is a real cool site.. I have a 02 7.3 and it was running fine and then started to run rough at times just out of no where. Then was getting worse over a few weeks and the light is on
I had it checked at auto zone and thier reader says p1670 po672 and p0198 and i think it said 1316 also.
SO i replaced the camshaft sensor there in the parking lot.That sucked have to hold your mouth just right and no room under truck its a 2 wheel drive.Took 2 hourse.lol hard to pull it out. Well that didnt fix anything. So I stopped by a repair place and they out it on a snap on tools tester and it said left bank sometihng. So we looked and saw that the wires that go into the eot sensor were melted and touching the engine. So he taped them up and plugged it back in and then the truck ran normal sort of. Then retested and said everything was fine and also tested the injectors and they were fin as well.
But then the next day the truck would start real rough and felt like running on 5 cyclinders or something. Would run run real rough like timing was way off... So i bought new eot sensor and put it in and didnt fix any thing. still rough. Then the next day it wouldnt start at all. tried till the batteries went dead. So i replace the batteries plugged my engine into the house and waited a few hours and it started. But still is running rough. All fuses are ok. The connection is ok that we taped up. Would like to replace that connector with a new one but cant find one anywhere. I checked the wiring harness outside the valve covers but have not checked the under valve cover conn yet.
And went back to autozone for the free rip off buy all our parts tester nad still got those same test results even the eot sensor p0198.
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is this how I start something? New here guys thanks for the help!

 

Does it run any better once it warms up? Dont think autozone tester reads codes properly on the 7.3 Also were any of the wires melted touching each other?

 

Check under your valve covers. One of the harnesses came unplugged.

 

Yea the eot sensor connectors wires were bare from melting on the engine .. So we taped them up at that time and plugged it back in and it ran good sort of..better than it was. And then rechecked with the snap on tools tester and it was all good it said. But then the next day it would run like it was on 6 cylinders. real bad like the timing was off or someihtng. So i bought a new eot sensor and put it in. Ran the same still.
So then i found you guys on here and wish I had before i paid a guy to test and then charge me to tape up a connector instead of replcing it.
So maybe I should check the 9 pins of the harness that go into the valve covers?
I believe its GGIICIIGG
G and grnd I and C
g=plugs they should be below .6 to 2 ohms

Injectors less than 5 ohms right.

Originally the tester said left bank 2 so more than likely u think that is a uvc problem on the drivers side? or pass side. Im confused. lol

 

Go ahead and ohm both sides. You've got the numbers and layout. My advice would be to pull both valve covers and install the shims from Ford or make your own shims for those connectors so they don't come apart again.

 

ok i will test them in the morning

thanks

 

These guys have you in the right direction. For the most part places like autozone cannot read the codes for our trucks the generic OBDII readers do not pick up all of our codes It does sound like a classic UVCH issue you can do the F350-6 50 cent mod to fix that one though

 

Under the valve covers is the place to start when you have a p1316 code.
Then do the 50 cent mod.

 

I tried to test the ohms but am not getting anything. Heres a stupid question guys I disconnected the neg's on the batteries.. like my chilton tells me to
And does the key need to be turned on when i test the ohms?
Do I need to hook the batteries back up and turn the key on before testing the ohms on the 9 pin valve cover conn?

 

Are you testing the flat pins in the valve cover pass thru connector or the plug with wires that was disconnected from the head? Ohm meter should check the resistance of the wiring and/or injector solenoid between the center pin and the injector pin(s). Batteries and ignition switch should have nothing to do with it. Leave the key off and batteries connected.

 

ok well should i connect the batteries then. I disconnected them cus the chilton said to .
And yes i was checking the correct pins that are in going in the valve cover.

How the heck do you check those suckers they are so close together and its hard to get a good contact

the 2 outside pins of the nine i put the red on and then the black to the neg on the battery right.. Then the center pin agains t the 2 others on both side of the center one/seperatley I know not all at once..lol
But it seems aggrevating trying to hold my mouth just right

 

and i will try to use your 50 cent mod to keep them in place. Thanks for the help. Saved me a lot of $$$$. I live in boyd tx

 

dieselmann's Page

Check this site it should help solve the problem with ease. It's helped me in the past with both my trucks.

 

Which Boyd? Near Bonham or Rhome? I'm in Grandview about 15 miles North of Hillsboro. Heck of a lot of snow, huh?

It almost takes a 2nd person to watch the meter as you try and get the probes on the right pins. I've got a spare plug with pigtail wires that I can use to test the pins.

If you're having difficulty with ohming the pins, try leaving one side unplugged and start the truck up. If leaving one side unplugged makes no difference, you've found the unplugged side. Unplugging the wrong side will likely result in a no start.

Then again, you could always just pull one valve cover and see if it's the right one. You've got a 50 /50 shot doing it that way, but I'd recommend doing both of them.