cab bushing puller tool?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
cab bushing puller tool?
Does anyone have a writeup with pics of their cab bushing puller tool? I've searched and read but haven't come up with anything really solid and I'm looking to do these bushings soon but my truck is my DD right now so I need to be prepared and able to knock this job out pretty quick.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 14,375
Likes: 604
From: evansville in
6" long piece of 3" exh pipe with a length of 7/16 all thread,nut,washer and a heavy piece of material with a hole to be the back stop.thread the all thread from bottom and use the but to pull the lower parts down and out ..
Check that rad support.the rust up front can make for a mess getting it apart up there
Check that rad support.the rust up front can make for a mess getting it apart up there
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
I've already done the rad support I cut it all out and replaced the mount bracket and all. Now it's on to the 4 that actually support the cab, which everything I've read says it's a terrible job, if I go back with energy suspension bushings do I need some kind of sleeves for the bolts? I priced everything through lmc and came up almost 300 dollars where energy suspension is 60ish
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
And if I'm reading what your saying right I need to remove the bolt from the top, then run the all thread up into the nut piece from the bottom then pull down is that correct?
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,171
Likes: 20
From: Denton, TX
I think it is easier to pull them into a pipe of some sort. I didn't have pipe large enough so I had to flare mine out.
But the notch, or legs, help on the rear driver's side bushing. It's sorta buried, and you will have to remove the rock plate and loosen the tank.
The threaded rod bolts into the bottom, the legs get pushed to the frame, the double nut lets me hold the threaded rod from spinning, the long barrel nut is what applies the tension.
When they eventually come apart, cut just the flared part off so next time is easier. But no more as these have to sleeve into themselves.
You may want to loosen your fronts again as I found it is easier to jack up one whole side, replace the bushings, set it down with the bolts all loose, then do the other side.
The whole cab is loose so don't slide the cab off the frame or into the bed.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 75
From: Gilbert, PA
Does anyone have a writeup with pics of their cab bushing puller tool? I've searched and read but haven't come up with anything really solid and I'm looking to do these bushings soon but my truck is my DD right now so I need to be prepared and able to knock this job out pretty quick.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...find-them.html
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
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From: Higginsville, MO
That thread was defiantly not on the top when I started lookingetting this morning lol and doesn't even come up when I search cab bushings on my phone at least not in the first 20 or so links
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Exton, PA
Not sure how much rust the OP or everyone else had in their rig at time of pulling, but I just took mine off after having lifted the cab clear of the frame. Half of the 6 bolts broke off by just by wrenching on it - to give you an idea of the level of rust I'm dealing with. Not the worst I've seen, but significant.
Anyway, after lifting the cab free, I tried beating and prying from every direction. The shop manual is comically unhelpful, and I didn't see the home-made puller method.
...so I gave up and cut those suckers out from the top. I basically separated the flat part of the upper metal piece from the sleeve that goes down inside the rubber. The bottom just fell out at that point. Let me know if you want pics.
I need to fab up some new sleeves and top and bottom plates now for the energy suspension bushings I have, but that shouldn't be bad.
Anyway, after lifting the cab free, I tried beating and prying from every direction. The shop manual is comically unhelpful, and I didn't see the home-made puller method.
...so I gave up and cut those suckers out from the top. I basically separated the flat part of the upper metal piece from the sleeve that goes down inside the rubber. The bottom just fell out at that point. Let me know if you want pics.
I need to fab up some new sleeves and top and bottom plates now for the energy suspension bushings I have, but that shouldn't be bad.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 75
From: Gilbert, PA
That thread has been on the 1st page page for about a week now
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,171
Likes: 20
From: Denton, TX
I suggest having front bolts in hand or at least located if you have much rust on your truck already.
Good luck!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
well ive made it through the first three cab bushings, took about an hour, i haven't done the drivers side rear yet (the one with the fuel tank in the way) i used the big floor jack with the chain and the bolt method. two of the bolts are ruined, so ill be making a trip to fastenal after this class is over. Also, the drivers side retainer and top sleeve were a little damaged (both front and rear) im going to try and just flatten them back out. I'm not sure how the damage happened but i do have to believe that this truck may have been in an accident at one point or another.
I called ford to try and get bolts and retainers. the front bolt is discontinued. the retainers are discontinued. and the rear bolts are on indefinite backorder. just a heads up for anyone who thought about trying to get those parts from ford.
I called ford to try and get bolts and retainers. the front bolt is discontinued. the retainers are discontinued. and the rear bolts are on indefinite backorder. just a heads up for anyone who thought about trying to get those parts from ford.