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Air Testing HPO System

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Old Sep 21, 2014 | 06:09 PM
  #1  
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Air Testing HPO System

Hey Guys,

Ive got a stubborn 05 with a HPO system leak when hot. It has an updated STC fitting which I verified by actually looking as the customer couldn't produce any service records from the dealer.

I was trying to air test the system to find the leak, but Im not sure where to test and how much pressure to use. I was actually planning on using my EVAP leak tester and introducing smoke from the machine so I can actually see the leak and not just hear it.

Thanks for the help.

Sarge
 
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Old Sep 21, 2014 | 06:59 PM
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Need an adaptor to thread into the ICP sensor port. M12X1.5 with o-ring

As much compressor air as you can. The system is designed for 4000+ psi, 100-150 psi shop air won't hurt anything.

Key on, engine off to energize the injector coils.

On the middle PCM connector you will jump PIN 2 to ground to close the IPR.

Josh
 
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Old Sep 22, 2014 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
Need an adaptor to thread into the ICP sensor port. M12X1.5 with o-ring

As much compressor air as you can. The system is designed for 4000+ psi, 100-150 psi shop air won't hurt anything.

Key on, engine off to energize the injector coils.

On the middle PCM connector you will jump PIN 2 to ground to close the IPR.

Josh
Josh if you jump pin 2 to ground, are you saying ground anywere on vehicle or to ground on battery? And when doing this how long can you leave pin grounded?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2014 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cope1972
Josh if you jump pin 2 to ground, are you saying ground anywere on vehicle or to ground on battery? And when doing this how long can you leave pin grounded?
With the driver's side battery right there you can jump to battery negative. Otherwise ground is ground.

Energize about 60-90 seconds at a time.

Josh
 
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Old Sep 22, 2014 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
With the driver's side battery right there you can jump to battery negative. Otherwise ground is ground.

Energize about 60-90 seconds at a time.

Josh
So it's just the same as adding 12 volts to the ipr.. thanks man..
 
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Old Sep 22, 2014 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by cope1972
So it's just the same as adding 12 volts to the ipr.. thanks man..
KOEO the IPR always has full voltage, the PCM switches to ground to activate the IPR

Josh
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 09:35 AM
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So in theory if the IPR is commanded at 0% I assume that means its closed or is my assumption wrong.

The reason I ask is the leak at the passenger side valve cover is so bad that I cant tell a difference when I command it from 0% to 90%, Im in the process of pulling the valve cover now, I will repressurize it when I get it torn town.

I will also post pictures of the hose I made to air check the system.

Thanks,

Sarge
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 09:50 AM
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14% is open (dumping oil) and 85% is closed (sending all oil to the injectors...or air in this case).
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 10:16 AM
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Energizing the IPR keeps the air in the oil rails instead of bleeding into the crankcase and HPOP. Think of the IPR like a dam holding back the air.

If you have a leak under the valve cover no matter the IPR position then you have a leak under the valve cover.

Culprit

Dummy plugs
Oil nipple o rings
Standpipes
Upper injector o ring

Josh
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 02:16 PM
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Looks like the O-ring at the top of the injector is beat up and wrinkled. The only question I have is how loose should the fittings in the HPO rail be. They seem a little loose to me but Im not sure how loose they should or shouldn't be.

The fittings Im talking about are the oil supply fittings that would seal against the upper injector O-rings.

Thanks,

Sarge
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Sarge261
Looks like the O-ring at the top of the injector is beat up and wrinkled. The only question I have is how loose should the fittings in the HPO rail be. They seem a little loose to me but Im not sure how loose they should or shouldn't be.

The fittings Im talking about are the oil supply fittings that would seal against the upper injector O-rings.

Thanks,

Sarge
Sarge are you speaking of the nipple cups? If so most likely the orings are bad under the cups. When I replaced mine they were very brittle and when i put the new orings in the nipples were tight. If the oring inside the solenoid of the injector is broken or torn then that is bad and needs to be replaced also...
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 07:09 PM
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The O-ring at the top of the injector is defiantly bad, but I was wondering about the nipples in the HPO Rail. I did buy the seals and the tool to replace them anyway so I will see how they are. Im assuming with 144k on the clock it cant hurt to replace them while its apart.

I keep O-ring kits on hand for the injectors, just didn't realize the nipple O-rings were serviceable until I looked at RiffRaffs site and saw the tool and 4 orings.

Sarge
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 10:45 PM
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Here are some good links on that topic.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ole-story.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-creator.html



Sean
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Sarge261
The O-ring at the top of the injector is defiantly bad, but I was wondering about the nipples in the HPO Rail. I did buy the seals and the tool to replace them anyway so I will see how they are. Im assuming with 144k on the clock it cant hurt to replace them while its apart.

I keep O-ring kits on hand for the injectors, just didn't realize the nipple O-rings were serviceable until I looked at RiffRaffs site and saw the tool and 4 orings.

Sarge

if you have an impact or access to one it will be much easier to get them loose off the rail..
 
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 07:47 AM
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Thanks Sean,

Good reading...and videos. Reps sent!!!

Sarge
 
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