Hi, my truck is running like crap, real rich. So rich in fact that the other day it made a big BOOM out of the exhaust and a huge dust cloud where it was sitting. I'm almost afraid of running it to warm it up so I can take the codes because its so rich I'm afraid of it making its own thermobaric bomb out of the surrounding atmosphere. I decided it was best to run it around the block and "spread the love" rather than leaving it run in one place (which it barely made it back) but I was able to get the codes out of it so here they are:

KOEO:

51, 22, 53, 54, 35, 67

KOER:

98, 22, 54,, 51, 53

Now on the KOER, it never did do the flash for me to flip the wheel, WOT, and stomp the brakes. It just went straight to coding after a couple seconds.

Any ideas? When I first got this truck it wouldn't pump fuel and if I recall there was some wire under the dash I wiggled and that started it working (after a few hours of tracing wires down). Then it ran GREAT for a month or so, then started running poorly. Someone who supposedly knows Ford trucks worked on it and said it was the fuel relay. I think it was replaced, probably with a used one (sorry, I wasn't totally in the loop on all this), and supposedly in certain circumstances it will straighten up a bit by banging on it.

BTW, there has been no more big backfires since that one.

But I'm thinking since its running SO rich, that its probably not a fuel starvation problem (like a bad fuel relay).

This other clown might have messed with the engine timing. I don't have a light to test it but I've been thinking about just advancing the hell out of it to see if it improves. What do you think? I know I used to just "ear time" cars all the time, before anti-knock sensors. Now I'm not so sure that's wise. Only way I could think of doing it now is by seeking greatest power output (e.g. 1/4 mile times).

Thanks in advance for any ideas,

-Kevin

 

Wow, kind of amazed there's been no reply here at all

 

You got a hard fault in there = 98

One or more of the sensors are creating a problem for the computer one it can not over come.

Might be this one 54 = ACT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts/circuit open. If actually open it might be the wires are pinched and or simply grounded out.

Was it up to full running temp when you ran the test or no?

Or this one, 51 = ECT out of range/open circuit.

Those two sensors plugged in?

53 TPS above max voltage

22 = map out of range

All of those would cause it to run like crap/rich.

All those, the important sensors you have codes for they share a common circuit so I'd look at it test it make sure there is nothing wrong with it or one of the sensors on it. A problem with it that would also throw a hard fault.

You're gonna have to get your meter out, if you don't have one you're gonna need one.

One quick and dirty test ( if all those sensors are present and plugged in), unplug each one in turn running KOER test, see if code 98 disappears. If so that's suggest that sensor as the problem, doubting it be that simple but again a quick and dirty test.

 

Yes, it was warmed up. I have another thing: Pin two in the diagnostic plug isn't grounded. I tried to run the diag codes and it wouldn't work because pin 2 wasn't grounded so I had to ground the test plug directly to vehicle ground. Since that ground is broken, do you think that could be causing these codes to not work? Is that the same ground as the computer is using and that be why all these reference voltages are off?

 

Yea that's the circuit common to those main sensors your computer has issue with.

Its ether open at some point between the computer and sensors or yea the computer itself has no path to ground or both.

Pins 20 40 and 60 at the computer should be ground 40 and 60 power grounds, should read continuity to ground.

The negative terminal at the battery, it should have a large main ground cable and then another smaller yet heavy gauge wire between negative post and inner fender. Its possible that ground might be missing, someone change cable or cable end leaving it off, if its not connected or missing correct the problem then test the system again.

 

I replaced the computer with one out of a junkyard. I tried replacing the e-caps in the old one but one lead broke off and I think I munged up the board trying to extract it. So rather than mess with it I got one with the same number's out of the junk yard. Opened it up and the caps looked okay at least upon cursory inspection. I hooked it up last night, warmed it up, and the CEL came on again. I checked the codes and here they are (cleared the computer and checked a couple times just to be sure):

KOEO: 22, 23, 67

KOER: 98, 22

Oh, and I wanted to add another thing. The engine temp gage on the dash is just pegged at cold, like its not hooked up or anything. Could these codes and that mean that the temp sensor on the engine is bad or the wire broken to it?

Another thing. When I do the KOER it gives me one flash (thought it was supposed to give me 3 for "6 cyl" then do some tests, flash for me to do WOT then start giving me codes. I get one flash, then just codes. Tried the WOT after the first flash. No change in the codes.