codes breakdown
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New User
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codes breakdown
I did a KOEO self test using a LED light (ya im cheap 
) and I got some codes and know what they are but just do not understand what they mean.
The codes
51=ECT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts.
22=MAP/BP sensor out of self test range
53=TPS circuit above maximum 4.5 volts
54=ACT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts.
35=PFE or EVP circuit above the maximum limit of 4.81 volts
67=Neutral safety circuit failure
52=Power steering pressure switch always open or closed
Would some be nice enough to give me a basic break down on theses and how to fix please?
The funny part is i have Fuel pump probloms and it did not read that,go figure.
CrimeScene
) and I got some codes and know what they are but just do not understand what they mean.The codes
51=ECT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts.
22=MAP/BP sensor out of self test range
53=TPS circuit above maximum 4.5 volts
54=ACT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts.
35=PFE or EVP circuit above the maximum limit of 4.81 volts
67=Neutral safety circuit failure
52=Power steering pressure switch always open or closed
Would some be nice enough to give me a basic break down on theses and how to fix please?
The funny part is i have Fuel pump probloms and it did not read that,go figure.
CrimeScene
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
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From: Bonita Springs FL
Did you let the engine warm up before you did the test? That will throw the 51 and possibly the 54 code.
67 & 52 are because you didn't move the steering wheel and hold the clutch to the floor during the test - nothing to worry about.
22,53,54,35 - I would start by testing each sensor and verifying that they are in range they're supposed to be in. The Haynes manual does a good job of covering test procedures for each sensor.
67 & 52 are because you didn't move the steering wheel and hold the clutch to the floor during the test - nothing to worry about.
22,53,54,35 - I would start by testing each sensor and verifying that they are in range they're supposed to be in. The Haynes manual does a good job of covering test procedures for each sensor.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2006
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Umm, sorta sounds like something's gone awry with the 5V VSS. The ECM provides the 5 volt supply for all the sensors, but I'm not sure that Ford put any kind of diagnostics on their bulletproof power supplies. I don't recall reading any kind of diagnostic code that indicated a power supply failure. The fact that EVERY reading is indicating high bothers me a little. Did you check the VSS (5V supply)? Pull the ECT connector (2 wire connector) and check both conductors to ground with the key on. One, you won't get a reading on, but the other should have only 5 volts on it. If it's higher than 5 volts, unfortunately your problem is going to be in the ECM. Another possibility is a loose ECM ground causing the reference voltage (VSS) to float. Check all the grounds very carefully and make sure none is broken or corroded.
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Ummm Old ya lost me explain that a little pls
As far as the Haynes book it explains some of the codes and how to fix but some are "take it to Ford" explaination unless I missed something,should I just replaced the sensors? they are going to need it sooner or later and there not to much money.
It goes to a garage tuesday for the rear pump and sender,I am trying to fix all the other stuff so I can save some cash,but it's running rough now and smoking,I replaced plugs,wirers,dis cap and rotor,next is the fuel filter after that I give up.
On a side note Old I see a 86 T-bird,I just got a 79 myself 50,000 on her.
CrimeScene
As far as the Haynes book it explains some of the codes and how to fix but some are "take it to Ford" explaination unless I missed something,should I just replaced the sensors? they are going to need it sooner or later and there not to much money.
It goes to a garage tuesday for the rear pump and sender,I am trying to fix all the other stuff so I can save some cash,but it's running rough now and smoking,I replaced plugs,wirers,dis cap and rotor,next is the fuel filter after that I give up.
On a side note Old I see a 86 T-bird,I just got a 79 myself 50,000 on her.
CrimeScene
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 805
Likes: 3
Originally Posted by CrimeScene
Ummm Old ya lost me explain that a little pls
As far as the Haynes book it explains some of the codes and how to fix but some are "take it to Ford" explaination unless I missed something,should I just replaced the sensors? they are going to need it sooner or later and there not to much money.
It goes to a garage tuesday for the rear pump and sender,I am trying to fix all the other stuff so I can save some cash,but it's running rough now and smoking,I replaced plugs,wirers,dis cap and rotor,next is the fuel filter after that I give up.
On a side note Old I see a 86 T-bird,I just got a 79 myself 50,000 on her.
CrimeScene
As far as the Haynes book it explains some of the codes and how to fix but some are "take it to Ford" explaination unless I missed something,should I just replaced the sensors? they are going to need it sooner or later and there not to much money.
It goes to a garage tuesday for the rear pump and sender,I am trying to fix all the other stuff so I can save some cash,but it's running rough now and smoking,I replaced plugs,wirers,dis cap and rotor,next is the fuel filter after that I give up.
On a side note Old I see a 86 T-bird,I just got a 79 myself 50,000 on her.
CrimeScene
The EEC takes the 12V from the battery, and steps it down to 5V for most of the sensors. Some of the sensors are analog, 0-5V, and others are discrete, 0 OR 5V (logic 0 or 1). If something fails in the circuitry for the 5V supply, but the EEC isn't completely dead, it'll flag all the sensors as being kaput. But, it isn't tagging ALL of the sensors on yours, so I more suspect a bad connection somewhere, or one sensor that is pulling down the 5V source. I had a sensor go out on the T-Bird once, and it pulled the 5V down, but didn't kill it. Took a while to find the problem. But, it's a fairly simple process. Disconnect them all, and plug them in one at a time, clearing codes as you do that. You should get codes for the ones that are disconnected on the KOEO. To clear codes without disconnecting the battery, you can simply interrupt the KOEO after it starts flashing the first set of codes at you by pulling the jumper out of the diagnostic link. The EEC will reset and you'll hear the normal clicking and whirring of the POST (Power On Self Test). If you plug one in, and it's code goes away, then plug another in with the EEC powered down, and test again. If one sensor is dead, and pulling down the 5V, you'll get all the codes again. Just remember to reset them between each test.
