Hello all, I,m working on a 79 f350 4x4, 400 with a/c. I don,t ever use the a/c so I want to remove the compressor to make working on the truck easier. But I want to have a heater for winter. So can I just disconnect the lines at the a/c heater box, along with the other associated parts, compressor, condenser, etc. And will the heater still function? Thanks for your input.

 

Yes, the two systems are independent of each other.
Basically what you'll have now is the "Hi-Lo vent system". This is an optional heater that Ford brought out in 1978. It consisted of the A/C system, minus the A/C part. You had the dash vents, vacuum controls and the big evaporator housing under the hood, minus the lines, evaporator, condenser, compressor, etc.

 

Just take the compressor off and get the big mount plate out of your way, disconnect the a/c lines in the engine compartment only, from where they go in the firewall.

Yes remove the front grill a/c related items to.

Or you could convert the compressor to provide on-board air??

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...a-install.html

York Compressor for On-Board Air

Learn about your a/c here, more than I could ever tell ya.

1979 F100 Air Conditioning

NORTH COUNTRY SPECIALTIES ®

 

Thanks. For the help.

 

If the compressor is still works pm me if you're interested in selling it

 

That compressor from BC Canada to Fl, $$$ heavy shipping cost.....$$$

 

Nevermind, didn't realize you were that far away

 

Put your mouse pointer on a users name, slick and a drop down of his profile will open.

Go to "View Public Profile", then second box "about me" to get a state location.

Also a great way to send PM's and talk about buying parts privately.

 

I understand your line of thought. I added the AC to mine back in 1987 and used it many times in summer back then, the stock vents in a non AC truck just didn't "do it". It was work, but now I have the benefit of the added vents plus I still have the big vent beside driver's left foot well.

I haven't charged the system in years, R-12 too expensive ... so I have considered removing the compressor and stuff as well but then I'ld still have the big box over on the pass side that I worked so hard to install .... and then lately have been thinking of trying this "Red Tek 12a" substitute?

System is still shut, still has some R-12 in it even.

I did not know that .... hmmmm?

 

Yeah, Ford brought it out starting with the 1978 model year.
This is one of those options that I never could figure out, I mean, what's the point?
That's seems to me to be a lot of "monkey motion" just to get hot air out of the dash. And now you have to deal with one of the factory A/Cs worst features, that big a$$ evaporator housing sticking in the engine compartment.
If I wasn't going to get A/C, I'd go with the standard heater. A whole lot easier to work on and less to go wrong.
Just my 2¢.

 

Have the a/c evac'd, flush it, new o-rings, install the correct amount of ester (POE) oil, vac it down and charge with r152a - aka the air duster can refrigerant.. Stuff works great, it's cheap and easy to find...look it up on YouTube.. Air duster refrigerant.. Been running it in my 88 ranger performs great in the 100+ degree AZ heat

 

The reason I got going on this was because the driver exhaust manifold was cracked, and of course some of the bolts broke in the head. So I,m going to pull the engine to fix them, What a pain.

 

WHAT....PUT THE BINDERS ON THAT SHOW PONEY, that is not always necessary, at least there are other options to consider 1st. Read on....yes it long, but might save you an engine pull. Skip the header part and read about broken bolts repair.

This a story about changing from stock exhaust manifolds to fenderwell exit headers. Or if you are just changing stock exhaust manifold gaskets. Truck is a 79 F250 4x4 351M 4 spd.
The #1 thing in my book is to LUBE THE HELL outa those soon to be old exhaust bolts. I would use PB blaster or Sea Foam Deep Creep. If the vehicle is not your daily driver, soak them as much a possible for like a week straight. Use the red tube to get right in there, spray the top side of the bolt head and let it soak. This step is very important because you do not want to break off any of those bolts. I have heard of heating up the bolts with a torch, good way to burn up your valve cover gaskets, and catch fire to your sprayed on lube, I always change them cold. I even heard of starting the truck to heat up those bolts, great way to burn your hands and fingers. Remember LUBE LUBE LUBE, jack up truck to a comfortable working height, take off front tires. And do all the other safety stuff, block rear tires ect....I start on the passenger side, it’s always easier. Do not try to "snap" torque the bolts loose, use a slow draw break torque. And use a quality socket, as straight on as possible.

If you break one, don't panic, you do not have to remove the head to fix this problem, at least I didn't, and I broke 3 on pass side and 2 on dvs side, on 1 truck and 2 and 2 on another.
If you do continue removing the rest of the bolts, hopefully with better luck. And then ditch that ol heavy stock factory manifold, do not throw them away those stock suckers are pricey especially the dvs side, why I do not know. If there is any bolt left sticking out of the head after you remove the rest of them and the exhaust manifold maybe you can vice grip it and get it to break loose. Probably not, and you only gouge it up. Some guys say they can weld a nut on there and get it out, those guys are luckier than me. If it’s broke flush with the head, just keep reading. If you do break a bolt, use a GOOD QUALITY set of drill bits to drill it out. Use a center punch to make sure you start in the middle, VERY IMPORTANT. Start with a smaller bit and work your way up to a bigger one.Match your drill bit to your tap size needed for the correct bolt size. 7/16 1/2 or 9/16 can't remember. I would then tap in new threads. As a tech note if you are going to re-tap the hole weld the tap into a old 3/8 drive socket that way you can get in there with a extension and get it tapped right the first time.
I WOULD NOT USE A EASY OUT, been there done that, broke it off in the hole, another long story. If you are having trouble tapping in new threads, might be able to use a "helicoil" thread insert, easy to use, buy it in a kit, just have to drill out a bigger hole to insert the thread coil. Debur or run a tap in to clean out the old holes best you can.

Get new hardware, grade 8 or better, do not use the hdwr provided (junk) not enough washer face to the header flange. I got mine with a premade large washer, and use the lock washers with the little face to face lock teeth.They are called Norlock fasteners, got them and my bolts from Fastenall, use some thick header gaskets from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, pricey but awesome. Make sure you use anti seize compound on the hardware. DO NOT have any solvent on your hands when you install the gaskets, it will cause a hot spot on the gasket and burn it up. Passenger side inner fenderwell will need a bit of trimming or bend outa the way for now, trim later. 2 people makes this part a lot easier, while you wrestle the header into position, from under the truck, your helper will align the gaskets and start the bolts, all hand tight at first. If you are having trouble getting it in, try taking off the shock tower, 3 bolts ? Might give you more wiggle room, did for me especially on the dvs side. Evenly tighten down bolts, all the while making sure the header doesn't catch on anything.
Ck the clearance on the cab mount frame bracket to the collector area, grind the bracket as needed. Use a quality audible Tq wrench, start at minimum working your way to max. STOP THERE, DRINK ONE BEER, AND GET READY FOR OTHER SIDE.

Ok on dvs side, remove dip stick and tube (plug pan to stop oil leak) and brake line coil from master cylinder to frame mounted proportional valve. Cap/plug all opening, brake fluid in the eye is a M...F.... Probably have to remove that brake line clamp plate from back side of shock tower, remember to take the tower outa the way also. Bend/trim inner metal fenderwell and install in same order as passenger side. Re install all the other stuff you took off, remember to re-bleed brakes. Make sure nothing is touching your headers, spark plug wires, fuel line ect...I would start the truck with open headers, so you can soak up the fruits of your hard labor. Some smoke is normal from all the lube and the paint burning off YOUR new headers. Let truck idle, blip throttle to scare the neighbors, again make sure nothing is touching the headers. Decide if you are man enough to drive it around the block, let idle till all the smoke quits. Shut off and do a torque ck on those bolts. CAREFUL THE HEADERS ARE HOT! The torque will be different due to the bolts being hot now, do a minimum tq ck. Start in middle and work your out. Decide what exhaust system you want to use, cherry bombs, flowmasters, I prefer straights to stacks. If you are not going to do it yourself, make appt with muffler shop, have fun driving there. Remember you can install a Y-style muffler bypass with cap. I do another cold torque ck then next day. And then again in a day or two after they settle in place from driving/muffler hanging on them. If you used those cool lock washers should have no problems. I know this is long but hope it helps, have fun let us know how it turns out, and throw in a pic. If you own a ½ ton go to this thread 7-24-2010 “My 460 needs to be heard” ½ ton swap with pics.

 

Thanks for the info 77&79f250. I broke 2 bolts on the driver side and they are flush with the head, nothing to grab. But im thinking pulling the engine to clean and paint now. The truck sat in a carport for many years and the cork gaskets have dried up, the oil pan is leaking pretty bad. So I figure now is the best time to deal with. You know how it is, start working on a simple job and you get covered in grease and crud, no thanks.

 

Ah NO I don't, I do not own or work on chebbies....

If you are going to pull it, you are taking the complete front clip off right? 14 bolts and a cherry picker and its off by yourself.

I have some more info if interested?