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Eliminateing the a/c compressor?

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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 08:08 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Ah NO I don't, I do not own or work on chebbies....

If you are going to pull it, you are taking the complete front clip off right? 14 bolts and a cherry picker and its off by yourself.

I have some more info if interested?
yes id be happy to read what you have.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 09:58 AM
  #17  
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Front clip removal...w/pics

Ok then here goes, there are 5+ ways to skin a cat, here is just what works for me. I am going off memory and am a long way from my truck to go look. This works on my none a/c 79 4x4 F250, more than once, and I used the same technique on a 79 Bronco with a/c. Painters tape on the door front edge when opened, and a little more plus the back edge of the fenders to prevent scratches. Disconnect battery and remove. Drain radiator.Tag and bag each piece of hdwr, or stick it in a large piece of card board and mark it accordingly.

1. Make sure you park the truck where you can get both doors open. Or BEFORE you put it inside a narrow shop....Open each door and remove the one bolt on each side that is right between the hinges. Now put it in the narrow shop...lol.

2. Take a scribe or sharpie and trace a mark the hood hinge positions on the underside of the hood. This will be helpful come re-installation/realignment time. Hood removal is really a 2 person job. If you go it alone, be careful, great way to scratch the hood/cowl. If the hood is all the way open, it is front heavy when you remove the bolts. I can’t really explain a 1 man job here, but it looks like a monkey f..in a football. Just get a helping hand for this. If the hinges are compressed once removed, be careful as they can pop back up easily and get a finger in the process. Disconnect the hood ground on the passenger side. Make sure you make note of the stiffener brackets (under the hinges) if you have them. Ok hoods off.

3. At the very bottom edge/back side of each fender, is one bolt.

4. Make sure if you have the front fender/front edge to frame small support bars (some do, some don't) remove them from the frame. I would remove them from the fenders also, to prevent anything from getting bent.

5. Masking tape tag electrical connection on each side of the connection and mark them like (1-1), (2-2) or A-A, B-B and so on. There are 3? Main electrical connector on the dvrs side back by the fire wall, behind the hood hinge. Tape, tag, and disconnect.

6. The electrical harness that runs across the back side and above the fire wall on the passenger side and go to the starter solenoid. Disconnect from solenoid (make sure you know make note) where each elbow plug goes on the starter solenoid. There is a plug for voltage regulator, and lay wiring on engine. Ground wire from solenoid to engine block (remove from solenoid side).

7. Look over the area behind the headlights (each side for 1 small square plug) and the washer tank for a electrical plug in the front end of the tank. And the rubber feed line that goes to the T.

8. Top and bottom radiator hoses from back side of radiator. Fold rubber hoses back out of the way and zip tie, so they do not flip back open. Is it a auto trans? Disconnect trans lines from radiator. Cap lines.

9. There are these 1” or 2” wide rubber straps (one on each side) on the back side of the metal inner fenderwell that attach to the firewall, disconnect from firewall.

10. Scribe mark where the bracket that support the inner fenderwells (where it attaches to the fire wall). Remove 3 bolts per side.

11. Now if you are lucky here, down on each side of the radiator there is one main mount bolt for the radiator core support. Lucky meaning, it will come out and is not all rusty and stuck. But if it is rusty, stuck and or the head is stripped. Time for the sawzall. Red Diablo blades here and carefully cut between the top of the frame rail and the bottom of the core support. These bushings and bolt parts are available. A torch is not a good idea here the rubber bushings will smoke like crazy.

12. Have an old tire or some other similar support to set the front clip down on once removed. Put it under the middle of the core support/radiator. So you do not bend the front edge of your fenders.

13. I use 2 other FTE buddies + myself and we just pull the complete front clip off. Make sure the plastic inner fenderwell liners do not get hung up on the shock brackets. As far as by yourself, attach the cherry picker to the middle of the core support, it can be done with a piece of cable, some folks just pull the radiator and use chain. Make sure you triple ck all electrical connections and the core support bushings are free. Lift it up just a bit and ck the fenders, and then lift it up again just a little. You are wanting to pull it more forward than up, so that the back edge of the fenders contact the back side of the tires.

Like I said, its doable, but a PITA as far as a one man show. 2 guys can pull it way easier. I am NOT 100% positive on all the electrical connections, but that is the big stuff. I am sure some FTE member are reading this and will double ck me and chime in with what ever I missed. Or maybe they have a better one man hood trick?

I did get the red truck and bronco hood off and up there by myself.....ok so 14 ish bolts.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 10:48 AM
  #18  
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I seen where a FTE guy drilled aliment holes here and said he did in the hood...
 
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