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Okay I'll admit it, I'm a moron lol.
As I've been working on my 87 I had come to the conclusion that something was wrong with my 6.9's IP or injectors etc.
I assumed this because EVERYTIME I cold start my 87 I have to push the gas pedal down and crank it ( after the WTS light goes out obviously) for it to start right up.
With My limited experience with diesels dodge cummins and JD 3020, I've never had to touch the throttle pedal, just hit the key.
Well, here's my stupidity, I flipped the sunvisor down today and low and behold, there's Ford's starting instructions, 4x4 instructions etc right on the visor!
for my 6.9 "temps above 32• F hold throttle pedal halfway down and crank it after WTS light goes out.."
"...for temps below 32•F hold throttle pedal all the down and crank it after WTS light goes out..."
I may feel stupid now but at least I know its normal and I don't need a new IP or injectors...
What should I be checking? IP?
Don't get me wrong once my intial cold start is out of the way the truck will start without any pedal and idles fine no pedal, it's just that intial cold start, perhaps my injectors are bleeding down(?)....
I wouldn't say it's hard starting at all when cold, (once warmed up, even if it's cooled almost completely down, it fires right up, no pedal)
wts light comes on for around 10secs then goes off
and it cranks once and catches and fires up (with my foot on the pedal) and runs fine, no pedal once it fires.
If I don't touch the pedal it cranks, catches and fires but doesn't actually start up on its own without pedal.
But maybe I'm not understanding a diesel hard start? (Is there a difference? I'm not being a smart @$$ or anything.)
Usually with a hard starting gas engine you have to crank, crank and crank it etc,
and I don't have to do that with my 6.9.
Now I'm wondering if my fuel screw is turned up enough for my banks turbo...
the main reason for to the floor to cold start is because the cold idle solenoidal does not have enough power to set itself. you need to put the pedal to the floor for the solenoidal to pop out to high idle.
You should only have to quickly depress the accelerator once during the glow cycle to activate the high idle solenoid. Then the motor should fire when you turn the key to start. You shouldn't have to hold the pedal down during the cranking.
No matter the temp, I just hit the pedal down to the floor once quickly. If it's hot out, it won't activate the solenoid. If it's cool out, it'll go to the mid idle setting. If it's cold out or the first start of the morning, high idle. Works every time.
I push/hold the pedal down about a quarter of the way, while I crank it for the first start of the day and it fires right up and runs like a champ usually on the first crank,
What should I check on my 6.9,
My injectors bleeding down overnight?
I have noticed that my solenoid doesn't move, it stays in the same position, hot or cold.
I've played around with tapping the pedal in halfway or floored during the WTS light cycle but it doesn't seem to make a difference, my cold start solenoid could be bad but I don't think (?) that's the problem...
Your solenoid should push the linkage on your pump out to make it idle higher and perhaps advance the timing. Not sure about the latter. If it isn't doing that, something is wrong.
I push/hold the pedal down about a quarter of the way, while I crank it for the first start of the day and it fires right up and runs like a champ usually on the first crank,
What should I check on my 6.9,
My injectors bleeding down overnight?
I have noticed that my solenoid doesn't move, it stays in the same position, hot or cold.
I've played around with tapping the pedal in halfway or floored during the WTS light cycle but it doesn't seem to make a difference, my cold start solenoid could be bad but I don't think (?) that's the problem...
my 88 and 02 will both start without hitting the throttle, but start better with full throttle.
if you high idle solenoid and timing advance do not work, look to see if the sender is plugged in. you will have to get up into the engine bay and look straight down alongside the alternator to the block next to the thermostat housing. that is where the sensor is. the wires usually get knocked off when changing the alternator.
if it is plugged in, try putting 12 volts to it and see if it moves.