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How in the world do you torque the back head bolts? Is the enough room to insert the head of the torque wrench? Do you use a rally good universal joint (didn't think the head knee that could take 210 ft-lbs)? Do you have to buy an offset?
How in the world do you torque the back head bolts? Is the enough room to insert the head of the torque wrench? Do you use a rally good universal joint (didn't think the head knee that could take 210 ft-lbs)? Do you have to buy an offset?
Thanks
Nope, pass side was easy with plenty of room to fit whatever you wanted to fit after the HVAC box was removed(have a shop remove freon before removing)
The pass side bolt closest to the firewall was the ONLY bolt that gave me an issue, but when I gave the firewall a "massage" I was able to fit the torque wrench no problem. I did have to use a cheater bar with the last 5 bolts the 210 really is a high number to pull. My arms are still sore almost 3 days later
Nope, pass side was easy with plenty of room to fit whatever you wanted to fit after the HVAC box was removed(have a shop remove freon before removing)
The pass side bolt closest to the firewall was the ONLY bolt that gave me an issue, but when I gave the firewall a "massage" I was able to fit the torque wrench no problem. I did have to use a cheater bar with the last 5 bolts the 210 really is a high number to pull. My arms are still sore almost 3 days later
How about the drivers side. Don't you have to massage the fire wall and jack the tranny just to get the stud in? Sounds like torquing would be an issue too.
How about the drivers side. Don't you have to massage the fire wall and jack the tranny just to get the stud in? Sounds like torquing would be an issue too.
Based on his earlier post, I believe he meant driver's side in his last post.
How about the drivers side. Don't you have to massage the fire wall and jack the tranny just to get the stud in? Sounds like torquing would be an issue too.
*edit* below I meant to say driverside!!
The *driver* side bolt closest to the firewall was the ONLY bolt that gave me an issue, but when I gave the firewall a "massage" I was able to fit the torque wrench no problem, also I did undo the tranny mount and jack up the trans made it a little easier but after doing that and the firewall there was no issue fitting a torque wrench . I did have to use a cheater bar with the last 5 bolts the 210 really is a high number to pull. My arms are still sore almost 3 days later
The *driver* side bolt closest to the firewall was the ONLY bolt that gave me an issue, but when I gave the firewall a "massage" I was able to fit the torque wrench no problem, also I did undo the tranny mount and jack up the trans made it a little easier but after doing that and the firewall there was no issue fitting a torque wrench . I did have to use a cheater bar with the last 5 bolts the 210 really is a high number to pull. My arms are still sore almost 3 days later
Other than taking the HVAC box off and massaging the firewall, what else was involved? Any special tools other than a torque wrench and standard sockets?
Other than taking the HVAC box off and massaging the firewall, what else was involved? Any special tools other than a torque wrench and standard sockets?
I used an air ratchet for all the valve cover bolts-ficm bolts-cac clamps-degas bottle...made life a lot easier and faster.
The one thing I would recommend is flexible ratchet wrench for the back bolt on the D.S. valve cover with out it, you would be back there for ever with a normal wrench, I am sure you could have done with with a couple universals and a couple different extensions but I found the ratchet wrench to be easiest.
I would also get something to suck the oil out of the bolt holes so they get seated properly, really, other than that its pretty straight forward. Get a GOOD torque wrench and a GOOD socket for the nuts on the studs.
When I did the studs on my old 6.0 I broke both the torque wrench and the socket.
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