What do you mean by "pop"

I have read threads where people do gaskets+studs and they still blow again in 10K miles-I guess doing anything to these trucks is a "gamble" Not trying to argue with you, but I have read countless success stories both with just doing 1 stud at a time and doing studs and gaskets....

I am willing to give it a shot.

 

The one stud at a time intrigues me as it would be nice not to have to pull the head but I am leery of it myself--I am very interested in how it goes.

 

I believe the folks that have problems after doing one stud at a time made mistakes such as not cleaning out the block holes, using too much lube in the block holes (lightly lube the threads), and/or using an inaccurate torque wrench that is under torquing the nuts.

 

Subbing. Please post any pics or problems.

 

Liberally use the lube on the threads, washers, and nuts and you will have a smooth torque. If you don't use enough the friction of torquing it will make a popping sound. If you experience that, I would back it back off and apply more lube.

 

Thank you Toreador_Diesel I did not get back to the thread I update. Plus I did not know the years for the turbo updates.

 

Double post

 

This method as descried by DSMMH is not the safest/correct way of doing the mod. That being said, why replace perfectly good head gaskets? After 25k and over 3 years no sign of trouble with mine

 

How do you figure it's not safe?

Me as well as many other know it's not the "right" way but with good gaskets and the POS TTY bolts that fail on A LOT of 6.0s I wanted to do it now and not worry, and if they do good bad, heck what am I out-just my time the studs are re useable.

Anyways, I did the studs tonight. Took me 7 hours start to finish. I started @ 6:00PM And the truck was running by 1AM .... I did the driver side first that side SUCKED. Not a lot of room and that back bolt by the fire wall wasn't easy either I ended up denting the fire wall AND cutting the bolt to get it out. Then to slide the stud in with out hitting the fire wall again I took off the trans mount bolts and jacked it up there which tilted the motor forward and the stud slid in.

I did it in reverse factory torque sequence I did a lot of reading about this subject and it seems that's the going method for doing it.

The pass side was a PIECE OF CAKE! I removed the HVAC box after removing the refrigerant @ my shop and I had so much room in there it was unreal.

I went to 165LBS after removing the factory bolt and installed the ARP I used plenty of lube and they all torqued very smoothly.

Then when all the ARP bolts were i went to 210LBS-ouch!

Got the truck all back together fired up after a couple seconds of cranking(normal) then I got a P0261 code and went back and looked at the harness and it wasn't fully seated. Good to go for now. Any questions just ask.

If I were to do head studs again I would pull the cab not for any other reason of I'd like to know how to do that.

 

[QUOTE="2006powerstroke90;14679719"]

Took me 7 hours start to finish. I started @ 6:00PM And the truck was running by 1AM ....

Well I guess Friday night is part of the weekend... lol. Good job man, please post back from time to time with results good or bad. I do have some questions...

In the 7 hours, are the studs the only thing you did, or did you take care of any of the other "weak points"?

I did the driver side first that side SUCKED. Not a lot of room and that back bolt by the fire wall wasn't easy either I ended up denting the fire wall AND cutting the bolt to get it out. Then to slide the stud in with out hitting the fire wall again I took off the trans mount bolts and jacked it up there which tilted the motor forward and the stud slid in.

Could denting the FW or cutting the bolt been avoided if you had jacked up the Tranny first?

Did you drain all the coolant from the block plugs before starting the work?

 

[QUOTE=Shaneb75;14679982]No, the stud BARELY slid in after I jacked up the trans, so the head of the bolt still had to be cut which was no big deal.

I drained all the coolant and then I sucked all the oil out of the bolt holes...put the studs in hand tight as well

 

Congrats on almost finishing, you still need to edit your signature

 

[QUOTE=2006powerstroke90;14676466]How did you get the driverside rear bolt in? The one closest to the fire wall?



I massaged the firewall a little with 3lb sledge, if I remember correctly.

 

[QUOTE=2006powerstroke90;14679997] I have 2 jacks under the truck and removed the engine & transmission mounts/bolts and twisted the engine/transmission to get at the rear bolts/studs.

 

Most on this forum were against this way of doing them as that time. Like you said if it didn't work, all you were out was your time.