When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
found a5.4 engine add a local junk yard with 130,000 milesmy question is before I install the engine I was wondering if I should replace the spark plugs and what is the best procedure for doing suchand any other thoughts on preventive maintenance or other items I should consider replacing while the engine is out
First off, I've never done this, so my advice is basic at best.
1. Is the engine going into a vehicle that had the 5.4 previously? Is the engine from the same year as the vehicle it's going into? You could be in for a lot of
2. While the engine is out, I would replace the following if at all possible: Gaskets (intake, valve cover, oil pan, exhaust manifold, especially if there's any evidence of leaks, belts, hoses, spark plugs, spark plug wires, engine oil & filter (USE HIGH QUALITY ON 5.4's!!).
3. Check/replace cam phasers and related parts. I only know this from reading threads on FTE. I have no further knowledge, but these are important.
It will be SO much easier to do the gaskets and whatnot with the engine OUT. There is never a better time to do so!!!!
I'm sure others will chime in with their opinions/advice, and most of them probably have more experience with this than I do.
Best of luck!
Last edited by phoskins; Sep 11, 2014 at 09:07 AM.
Reason: added more
found a5.4 engine add a local junk yard with 130,000 milesmy question is before I install the engine I was wondering if I should replace the spark plugs and what is the best procedure for doing suchand any other thoughts on preventive maintenance or other items I should consider replacing while the engine is out
This maybe overkill, but I would SERIOUSLY consider Head Gaskets. After reading here for the past year or so, it's not a matter of IF on a 2V Head Gaskets, but WHEN. The 2V's are notorious for failure at or around 125,000 to 155,000. Went through it with mine (son's). They lifted the cab off the frame to do the job, about $2,500+. If you have the funds to do it, I would. Gaskets aren't that expensive, and if doing other gaskets (as mentioned above), just buy the entire gasket set as head gaskets should be part of the set. Also they are the latest and greatest design/materials. You will also need "New" head bolts (buy from Ford, will most likely have to be ordered). Just my opinion.
This maybe overkill, but I would SERIOUSLY consider Head Gaskets. After reading here for the past year or so, it's not a matter of IF on a 2V Head Gaskets, but WHEN. The 2V's are notorious for failure at or around 125,000 to 155,000. Went through it with mine (son's). They lifted the cab off the frame to do the job, about $2,500+. If you have the funds to do it, I would. Gaskets aren't that expensive, and if doing other gaskets (as mentioned above), just buy the entire gasket set as head gaskets should be part of the set. Also they are the latest and greatest design/materials. You will also need "New" head bolts (buy from Ford, will most likely have to be
ordered). Just my opinion.
I paid 350.00 for the engine I will look into the head gasket replacement
This maybe overkill, but I would SERIOUSLY consider Head Gaskets. After reading here for the past year or so, it's not a matter of IF on a 2V Head Gaskets, but WHEN. The 2V's are notorious for failure at or around 125,000 to 155,000. Went through it with mine (son's). They lifted the cab off the frame to do the job, about $2,500+. If you have the funds to do it, I would. Gaskets aren't that expensive, and if doing other gaskets (as mentioned above), just buy the entire gasket set as head gaskets should be part of the set. Also they are the latest and greatest design/materials. You will also need "New" head bolts (buy from Ford, will most likely have to be ordered). Just my opinion.
$2,500+ is $1,500 too much , I was quoted $1,000. Right About head gasket , well plus new studs . My new motor from powertrainproduct.net was only $2,500 did it myself . Easy just time consuming . Pull out radiator, u have a couple inches of space to pullout n from here it's just removing n remembering along with torque specs. Xoxo! does that $350 have 350,000 miles?
Last edited by skidmarks82; Sep 13, 2014 at 07:25 PM.
Reason: Wording
When I did mine I did water pump and plugs, no reason not to do them when it is so easy to access all 8. Think I also did belt tensioner and idler pulley(s).
I'm doing the same thing but with a but with a newer more powerful version non-PI to PI. I would include front crank seal, rear crankshaft seal, and new valve seals. You may also need a new EGR tube to the exhaust manifold if the bottom nut adapter breaks/corrodes off inside it.
I'm doing the same thing but with a but with a newer more powerful version non-PI to PI. I would include front crank seal, rear crankshaft seal, and new valve seals. You may also need a new EGR tube to the exhaust manifold if the bottom nut adapter breaks/corrodes off inside it.
im doing an engine replacement on my 02 5.4, with the engine out of a somewhat junked 98, and from experience i can tell you your best bets for replacement will be to take the time and do it right, replace the plugs and COP's, while the engine is out, (it would be wise at this point to have a timesert kit with extra inserts) go ahead and rethread all your plugs, just to avoid having to time sert them later if and when they blow out, also change your exhaust manifold gaskets, intake gasket, valve cover gaskets, and serpentine belt if necessary, as well as oil pan and gasket, be careful in taking out and inserting the engines that you dont destroy the flywheel teeth or torque converter for your transmission, speaking from experience (thank you to the donor truck for the trial and error) when you are ready to lift the engine out, lift and place a stand with a small sheet of wood to disseminate the pressure from the weight of the truck, so that you dont destroy the bell housing on your tranny,( the donor truck ended up with the jack stand starting to push through the bell housing) you want to have it lifted and at more or less the same angle that the engine is coming out or going in at so as not to destroy anything. a hoist with an extendable boom is ideal, as well as an engine balancer to go with it, and a stand for the engine to sit on while you clean and prep with all the new gear is an absolute life saver. best of luck to you and hope all goes well, mine should be up and running within the week and hopefully yours goes just as fast
I've got all the seals and gaskets. I have been on-the-fense about installing "Timecerts" preemptively. I know it would be much much easier to do while out, but will then have to buy new head gaskets. Jbrew advised to just install as is with new gaskets and torquing the plugs to 28FT lbs as per the Ford TSB. I've never had a plug blow out on my still running 98' 5.4L. The last time I installed plugs I hand tightened them solidly per years of experience with aluminum head of all kinds. I know, I sure wouldn't want to have a plug blow out after all that swapping work and money spent. I may call the machine shop and see what they get $ to install new ones.
I've got all the seals and gaskets. I have been on-the-fense about installing "Timecerts" preemptively. I know it would be much much easier to do while out, but will then have to buy new head gaskets. Jbrew advised to just install as is with new gaskets and torquing the plugs to 28FT lbs as per the Ford TSB. I've never had a plug blow out on my still running 98' 5.4L. The last time I installed plugs I hand tightened them solidly per years of experience with aluminum head of all kinds. I know, I sure wouldn't want to have a plug blow out after all that swapping work and money spent. I may call the machine shop and see what they get $ to install new ones.
you shouldn't have to replace your head gaskets just to do time serts.
you shouldn't have to replace your head gaskets just to do time serts.
If you don't like the idea of leaving aluminum filings in your combustion chamber, you should remove the heads while the engine is out and install the "Timecerts" correctly. Ask any machine shop. Using grease or a mini vacuum to remove the chips is foolhardy. Chips will remain and very possibly ruin your newly installed engine.