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First off, my vehicle: 2006 F250 6.0L crew cab short bed Lariat
I have a fancy-schmantzy Pioneer radio in my truck which seems to be sensitive to being shut off when the truck is turning over. Sometimes it loses its configuration and goes into demo mode, sometimes it just refuses to connect to the bluetooth correctly without being switched to another mode and then back again. Either way, it gets pissed off when it gets turned off, so I'd like to find a power source that is on whenever the key is in, or some other way to convince the truck to not turn off the radio when cranking. It gets especially annoying when the wife sends me for coffee and I have to turn off the truck when ordering so the people can hear me, and then again at the window to just be polite.
Does anyone have any ideas on either a different power line I can tap into, or some other ingenious ideas? I still want it to turn off when the key is out so it doesn't drain the battery, so just tapping into one of the constant power sources doesn't work, and the upfitter connections only work when the key is in the "Run" position.
So what it sounds like to me is that you want to find a power source that is on anytime the key is in the ignition regardless of what position it is in? i.e. you put the key in and without turning, you have power on vs. putting the key in and having to turn it to acc. or something of that nature? If so, there is a possibility you could run a relay that supplies the radio with power and tie the "trigger" for the relay into the "key in" chime. In my 2006, whenever I put the key in with the door open, the truck chimes and I recall someone telling me that even with the door closed, there is a small current running to that chime. If you could somehow trace that and use that to trigger a relay, it may work. That's just a spitball idea…
Honestly, this really sounds like a defect in the radio itself, I've had two "fancy-schmantzy" Pioneer radios in my truck so far. Both had bluetooth, touch screens, iPod interface, radio, xm or whatever, one had nav. I have never had this issue with either of them in my 2006 gasser, so if possible I would try and troubleshoot the radio itself as opposed to trying to find a workaround. There should be a very small draw the radio keeps at all times that it uses to keep the clock set right, retain your station memory, etc. It sounds like maybe that aspect of the radio isn't working correctly perhaps. Troubleshooting the radio itself, checking ALL the connections in the back, and finally maybe contacting the seller from which you purchased the radio would be my REAL suggestion. You shouldn't be in a situation where you spent all that money on a nice Pioneer head unit and you have to deal with this issue. Good luck and keep us posted. If I think of any other electrical source for a "key in" power line, I'll chime back in!
Yeah, I agree that losing its configuration is really the radio's problem. I don't care so much about the difference between key in and key turned to the accessory power position, the detail I'm really going for is something that will turn off when the key is out/door is opened, and *won't* turn off when cranking the engine. I just haven't found that power source yet.
Yeah, I agree that losing its configuration is really the radio's problem. I don't care so much about the difference between key in and key turned to the accessory power position, the detail I'm really going for is something that will turn off when the key is out/door is opened, and *won't* turn off when cranking the engine. I just haven't found that power source yet.
Right now I'm looking in my shop manual at the Radio wiring diagram, it looks like there are three power supply wires coming into the radio. One is "Hot at all times" and that should be the one that keeps your settings saved when the truck is off. One is "Hot with ACC delay relay" which is obviously the one that is the main source of power for the radio and allows it to remain on with the key out until the doors open. The last is "hot in start", which sounds to me like it gives power while the key is in the start position, or the cranking position. My diagram says this wire is red/blk and is in position 32 in the central junction box. Maybe helpful, maybe not...
Good info. My dash is still torn apart, and my meter is still out there, so I'll go take a peek and see what I can find and report back in a few minutes.
I just tested at the fuse box and position 32 had a 5 amp fuse in it. I took it out and checked the initial voltage - nothing. Cranked the truck and it shot right up to 12.28 V, then was gone as soon as the key came back to the run position. So, the question is whether there's already a line run from where the radio is to position 32 in the fuse box, or if I'll have to run one myself. I figure if I run them both to the radio's main power, it *should* receive uninterrupted power. If I'm lucky. Which I'm probably not and I'll have to add a capacitor into the system to smooth things out.
I just tested at the fuse box and position 32 had a 5 amp fuse in it. I took it out and checked the initial voltage - nothing. Cranked the truck and it shot right up to 12.28 V, then was gone as soon as the key came back to the run position. So, the question is whether there's already a line run from where the radio is to position 32 in the fuse box, or if I'll have to run one myself. I figure if I run them both to the radio's main power, it *should* receive uninterrupted power. If I'm lucky. Which I'm probably not and I'll have to add a capacitor into the system to smooth things out.
I agree that it "should" give interrupted power. When the radio loses power due to the key moving to the "start" position, this power source should engage and supply power until the vehicle is running and then it switches back. In theory, it should work. However I agree on the concept of introducing a capacitor just to ensure a smooth transition between the stages of power.
Finally found it. The wiring harness adapter I have doesn't have a wire going to that position, so I'll rectify that tomorrow and see how it works out. Thanks for the help!
Finally found it. The wiring harness adapter I have doesn't have a wire going to that position, so I'll rectify that tomorrow and see how it works out. Thanks for the help!
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