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Help! Stuck Distributor (4.9L)

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  #1  
Old 09-04-2014, 11:06 PM
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Help! Stuck Distributor (4.9L)

I was trying to replace the lifter gallery gasket, so I removed the distributor cap. In doing so, I snapped off one of the bolts.

I am trying to remove the distributor so that I can try to remove the snapped bolt.

I got the bolt and clamp off. I can turn the distributor very easily. However, it refuses to budge when I pull up on it.

Is there some sort of trick to this? A clip or pin that needs to be removed? The Hayes manual says to simply pull up on the distributor.

The Ford manual says that #1 needs to be at TDC before pulling the distributor? I've never heard that needed to be done unless you forget to mark the rotor position and the distributor position. Do I need to put #1 at TDC in order to physically remove the distributor?

Thanks in advance.
 
  #2  
Old 09-05-2014, 12:21 AM
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Gently pry it up or use a small hammer to tap it out of it's hole…

The #1 reference is simply to allow for easier timing after the dizzy has been replaced.
 
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Old 09-05-2014, 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by krooser
Gently pry it up or use a small hammer to tap it out of it's hole…

The #1 reference is simply to allow for easier timing after the dizzy has been replaced.
x2 ... theres nothing but friction holding it in. just remember that it is aluminum ... be persistent but not brutal.
 
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Old 09-05-2014, 08:50 PM
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If the distributor base turns without a problem then it just might be the o-rings that melted...
 
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Old 09-05-2014, 09:00 PM
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Yep, it just pulls out. Maybe give it a shot of PB Blaster or whatever you prefer.
 
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by dixie460
Yep, it just pulls out. Maybe give it a shot of PB Blaster or whatever you prefer.
The Germans use "viener-schlider"…..
 
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:39 PM
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Thanks folks!!!

Originally Posted by joey2fords
x2 ... theres nothing but friction holding it in. just remember that it is aluminum ... be persistent but not brutal.
I got the distributor off. I soaked it with Kroil for a day. I managed to slip a small putty knife in between the block and the distributor and gently pried it up. I switched to a small flatblade screwdriver once there was enough of a gap.

It came out in one piece with out too many nicks on the aluminum.

Do I need to change the o-ring after the Kroil soaking? I suspect I should.

I drilled out (most) of the remaining snapped bolt. I wasn't able to get it out with the reverse drill bit, so I just drilled it though. I'm going to enlarge the hole a bit and just use a longer screw, a lock washer, and a nut to secure the cap.
 
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:39 PM
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oops. duplicate post.
 
  #9  
Old 09-09-2014, 08:42 PM
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Don't think you'll need to cahnge the o-ring unless you cut it. I never have...
 
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