Ignition Switch Problem
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 101
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From: Portland, OR
Ignition Switch Problem
My '79 short wheelbase E-150 (with only 110,000 miles on it) has a dash mounted ignition switch. Today when I tried to start it, the key would not turn in the ignition. I jiggled it, rocked it, ect. and finally got it to turn to the accessory side. Then after working it for 2 or 3 minutes it finally moved to start position.
It has been balky for the past few months and slightly pulling out against the key while turning it gave the best results.
I looked at new ignition switches online. They all show the electrical part that plugs in to the wiring harness. I'm not sure what part of it is worn. The key cylinder is what's hanging up.
Last year when I had to replace the windshield wiper motor I had to remove the key cylinder from the ignition so I could pull the dash panel. Still, I'm not that familiar with the ignition switch and unsure of what to do.
It has been balky for the past few months and slightly pulling out against the key while turning it gave the best results.
I looked at new ignition switches online. They all show the electrical part that plugs in to the wiring harness. I'm not sure what part of it is worn. The key cylinder is what's hanging up.
Last year when I had to replace the windshield wiper motor I had to remove the key cylinder from the ignition so I could pull the dash panel. Still, I'm not that familiar with the ignition switch and unsure of what to do.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Most likely your issue is centered more on the lock cylinder rather than the actual electrical switch. I'd call a locksmith familiar with automotive and get their input.
Typically and assuming replacement parts are available the failed cylinder is drilled out and replaced. Naturally this requires new parts which might be problematic.
Typically and assuming replacement parts are available the failed cylinder is drilled out and replaced. Naturally this requires new parts which might be problematic.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
The key switch is still available at Rockauto -
<table class="main" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr name="pltr494" class="part0" id="table494part2"><td class="alternate0" rowspan="2"><table class="parts"><tbody><tr><td class="left" style="padding:0px; margin:0px;"><table class="layout" style="padding:0px; margin:0px;"><tbody><tr><td class="partlayout">STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # US23LT T-Series
</td></tr></tbody></table></td><td class="right" style="height: 40px;">
</td></tr></tbody></table></td><td class="center leftrightborder boldfont priceonly alternate0" style="padding-top: 10px;" id="node494part2price">$5.42</td></tr><tr id="table494add2" class="part0"><td class="alternate0 center" style="vertical-align:top; white-space: nowrap; padding-right: 5px; padding-top: 5px;">
</td></tr></tbody></table>
There is a "pin" under the lock housing that you push in while the key in in the "on" position, and the entire lock core pulls out.
And........I haven't seen a dash key in a long time, the good thing is, you don't need to have that key programed at the dealer
<table class="main" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr name="pltr494" class="part0" id="table494part2"><td class="alternate0" rowspan="2"><table class="parts"><tbody><tr><td class="left" style="padding:0px; margin:0px;"><table class="layout" style="padding:0px; margin:0px;"><tbody><tr><td class="partlayout">STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # US23LT T-Series
</td></tr></tbody></table></td><td class="right" style="height: 40px;"></td></tr></tbody></table></td><td class="center leftrightborder boldfont priceonly alternate0" style="padding-top: 10px;" id="node494part2price">$5.42</td></tr><tr id="table494add2" class="part0"><td class="alternate0 center" style="vertical-align:top; white-space: nowrap; padding-right: 5px; padding-top: 5px;">
</td></tr></tbody></table>
There is a "pin" under the lock housing that you push in while the key in in the "on" position, and the entire lock core pulls out.
And........I haven't seen a dash key in a long time, the good thing is, you don't need to have that key programed at the dealer
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
The key switch is still available at Rockauto -
<table class="main" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr name="pltr494" class="part0" id="table494part2"><td class="alternate0" rowspan="2"><table class="parts"><tbody><tr><td class="left" style="padding:0px; margin:0px;"><table class="layout" style="padding:0px; margin:0px;"><tbody><tr><td class="partlayout">STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # US23LT T-Series</td></tr></tbody></table></td><td class="right" style="height: 40px;">
</td></tr></tbody></table></td><td class="center leftrightborder boldfont priceonly alternate0" style="padding-top: 10px;" id="node494part2price">$5.42</td></tr><tr id="table494add2" class="part0"><td class="alternate0 center" style="vertical-align:top; white-space: nowrap; padding-right: 5px; padding-top: 5px;">
</td></tr></tbody></table>
There is a "pin" under the lock housing that you push in while the key in in the "on" position, and the entire lock core pulls out.
And........I haven't seen a dash key in a long time, the good thing is, you don't need to have that key programed at the dealer
<table class="main" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr name="pltr494" class="part0" id="table494part2"><td class="alternate0" rowspan="2"><table class="parts"><tbody><tr><td class="left" style="padding:0px; margin:0px;"><table class="layout" style="padding:0px; margin:0px;"><tbody><tr><td class="partlayout">STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # US23LT T-Series
</td></tr></tbody></table></td><td class="right" style="height: 40px;"></td></tr></tbody></table></td><td class="center leftrightborder boldfont priceonly alternate0" style="padding-top: 10px;" id="node494part2price">$5.42</td></tr><tr id="table494add2" class="part0"><td class="alternate0 center" style="vertical-align:top; white-space: nowrap; padding-right: 5px; padding-top: 5px;">
</td></tr></tbody></table>
There is a "pin" under the lock housing that you push in while the key in in the "on" position, and the entire lock core pulls out.
And........I haven't seen a dash key in a long time, the good thing is, you don't need to have that key programed at the dealer
First I removed the lock cylinder from the ignition and flushed it out good with lots of WD-40. Unfortunately that didn't work, and the thing jammed for good.
I went over to the local auto parts store and they sold me a replacement lock cylinder with 2 Ford style keys for about $9. That adds another key to my ring but it seems to work okay now. I'll probably get a second one for a spare and carry it in my tool box, just in case.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
Hey, glad to hear you made out good on this.
I don't know about getting a 2nd one for a spare? after all, the OE lasted 25 years.............
Guest after 25 years the pins in the lock core just gave up.
Another thing if found over the years, keep a original key some place safe, and after time the user key teeth wear down, causing problems with the pin alinement, at that point, time to get a new user key cut, and Not from a 'big box store', from a good key cutter (locksmith)
So, '79 was the last year of the dash ignition switch........
They were great when working on them, you could just reach in the window and hit the starter
I don't know about getting a 2nd one for a spare? after all, the OE lasted 25 years.............
Guest after 25 years the pins in the lock core just gave up.
Another thing if found over the years, keep a original key some place safe, and after time the user key teeth wear down, causing problems with the pin alinement, at that point, time to get a new user key cut, and Not from a 'big box store', from a good key cutter (locksmith)
So, '79 was the last year of the dash ignition switch........
They were great when working on them, you could just reach in the window and hit the starter
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