Recommended:

Drain and refill oiling system with Rotella T6 5W-40
Motorcraft oil filter
Motorcraft oil filter cap
Fumoto oil drain valve
Motorcraft updated oil cooler kit
Motorcraft updated STC fitting kit (05-up)
Motorcraft updated dummy plugs (04-up)
Motorcraft updated stand pipes (04-up)
Motorcraft updated turbo oil feed line
Motorcraft updated turbo oil return line
Motorcraft updated oil dipstick (03-06)

Optional:
Add Rev-X, Hot Shot Secret, or Archoil 9100 to oiling system
Install aftermarket metal oil filter cap (BPD, Sinister)
Install aftermarket metal oil fill cap (BPD, Sinister, others)
Install aftermarket bypass oil filter setup (BPD, Sinister, Amsoil)
Install aftermarket oil cooler assembly (IPR or BPD)
Install aftermarket high pressure oil pump screen (IPR)
Install aftermarket high pressure oil delivery system (Diesel Site)
Install aftermarket high pressure oil pump (Diesel Site)
Upgrade to 05-up high pressure oil pump (03-04 trucks) (OEM parts)
Replace HPO rail seals when removing rails for other jobs (OEM)

I think about everyone on here knows about using Rotella T6, Rev-X, OEM filters, OEM filter cap, and a Fumoto drain valve, so I'm not gonna go into that. Hot Shot Secret is also preferred by some people, so it really seems to be just a preference thing anymore. The updated STC fitting, HPOP screen, dummy plugs, stand pipes, turbo feed and return lines, IPR screen, and dipstick all make sense. They were parts that were re-designed and updated by Ford. They are things that should be installed during an oil cooler job as most of them can easily be accessed during this process. As far as the updated parts thing - from what I can tell none of those parts made it onto any 6.0 besides the oil feed line. Late 06 and 07's had them from what I've read along with possibly the dipstick. I know without a doubt the updated oil cooler, STC fitting, HPOP screen, dummy plugs, stand pipes, oil return line, and IPR screen never made it on a 6.0. They were all parts that were created after the 6.0 finished its production run. Also, just to clarify, the HPOP screen is the same as the oil cooler screen. Some people just refer to it differently. The updated oil cooler kit (11 row) comes with the updated (stainless) oil cooler screen. Also, the updated STC fitting kit (stronger) comes with the updated (stainless) IPR screen as well.

There are the optional metal caps out there. They are generally for the guys who are adding accessories like oil temp gauges, bypass oil filtration setups, etc. Generally the plastic caps don't have any issues unless someone is over-tightening them. I myself can't justify the price of the metal caps for looks-only. The bypass oil filter setup seems to just be one of those extra "things" you can install if you have the money. These trucks aren't fans of extended drain intervals, and it's been shown the OEM filter does a perfectly adequate job of filtering the oil, especially if you are using a good oil like Rotella T6. There's quite a few people out there who advise against the bypass filters as no matter what the 6.0 shears oil. Diesel Site just recently released the high pressure oil delivery system and in theory it's cool idea. Apparently it's only useful for the guys with 195 or larger injectors though and that the factory HPO system (especially 05-up) can easily handle things up to that point. I would highly recommend the Diesel Site HPOP for the 03-04.5 guys who need to replace their pump as the OEM pump has a much higher failure rate than the 04.5-up guys. Also, you have the option to upgrade to the later pump as well but it's very involved and most likely not going to be worth it. IPR recently released the extreme duty oil cooler screen and although it makes sense, the OEM oil cooler screen was updated to a stainless steel mesh to prevent issues. To me the oil cooler screen is going to be more of bling item as I haven't heard of the updated oil cooler screen failing unless there were other bigger issues with the truck.

The oil cooler debate is a very heavy one around here. You have 3 setups generally - OEM, IPR's remote setup, IPR's replacement oil cooler, and BPD's air/oil setup. The OEM setup has been shown to work perfect with proper cooling system maintenance, and everyone here knows how it works. Ford has an updated oil cooler out now, so a lot of people choose to simply replace it for peace of mind. IPR has what appears to be a great setup with their external cooler setup, but has draw-backs. It doesn't really provide any additional oil cooling ability, just makes it easier to replace the oil cooler down the road. It requires you to run the 100% filtration setup and makes it harder to perform normal oil changes, plus it's a bit pricey and hasn't really been proven well. I DO NOT recommend this setup as it is very unproven. IPR also has their replacement cooler for the OEM setup with larger passes. Problem with this is it lowers the coolant's ability to cool the oil and IPR does NOT recommend it for towing, so I also DO NOT recommend this thing either. BPD's setup is great and works extremely well, but you lose the ability to warm the oil using the cooling system and it may not be a good idea for those of us in very cold weather, plus it's VERY costly.

Here's what my list looks like at this point for the oiling system:

Perform routine oil change and inspection using Rotella T6 oil, REV-X, and Motorcraft OEM oil filter (every 5,000 miles)
VMS Racing red 6.0 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel oil cap
Motorcraft oil filter housing cap
Fumoto oil drain valve
Motorcraft updated oil dipstick
Motorcraft oil pressure switch
Motorcraft updated oil cooler kit
Motorcraft updated high pressure oil pump STC fitting kit
Motorcraft updated high pressure dummy rail plugs
Motorcraft updated high pressure stand pipes
Motorcraft updated turbo oil feed line
Motorcraft updated turbo oil drain line

 

There is the option of external high pressure oil lines.

Josh

 

That would fall under the Diesel Site high pressure oil delivery system. I guess you could make your own as well.

 

If you want another snake oil option, Archoil 9100.
If you want a mechanical fix, polish the spool valves. I guess you could call this a "maintenance" job if you're pulling parts out for another issue, ie heads.

I'd consider HPO oil rail nipple cup seals an "optional" job worth mentioning if you're at high mileage/hours/age and re-ringing a bunch of injectors at once for whatever reason.

Using a new o-ring kit to re-ring injectors whenever removed so you keep the fuel out of the oil side and all liquids out of the cylinder kind of falls under oiling system maintenance.
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/allian...o-rings-03-07/

 

I don't see a reason to do the oil rail seals unless the nipple is loose. Mine were just fine when I pulled my injectors to polish the spools this spring.

Sent from my Telegraph using IB AutoGroup

 

I figured I'd mention polishing the injector nozzles as part of the fuel system that I will be diving into later. I almost forgot about the Archoil 9100. As far as the injector o-rings go I figured that kind of went along with the fact if you're removing them you should be doing it anyways, didn't think it was really worth mentioning. As far as the injector rail seals I guess that's something you can do if you really want to as well if you're tearing a bunch of **** apart and want extra insurance. I can add all this to my list. They didn't actually update the HPO rail rings though did they? It was just something that over time can fail?

 

You must mention Racor filters. I run these exclusively as I understand they make the Motorcraft filters.

On the snake oil side, I'm trying the Archoil 2300 cleaner. I'll run it 5k miles then go back to standard T6 and see if my stiction goes away.

Agree with a post above. If the ball tube (nipple cups) are loose, replace the ball tube orings. If the top injector oring looks cut, consider replacing ball tube orings.

 

The Hot Shot's Stiction Eliminator was designed specifically to clean off the spool valves inside the injectors. Not just lubricate them

 

Why is there an upgraded oil dip stick? what's wrong with the stock one? I have an '05.

 

The old plastic T-handled one would break off whereas the O-shaped one doesn't.

 

Bumping this up to see if there's anything I missed. I'm ordering parts and getting this thing to more a "completed" status.