Recommended:

Drain and refill oiling system with Rotella T6 5W-40 and Rev-X
Motorcraft oil filter
Motorcraft oil filter cap
Fumoto oil drain valve
Motorcraft updated oil cooler
Motorcraft updated STC fitting
Motorcraft updated HPOP screen
Motorcraft updated dummy plugs
Motorcraft updated stand pipes
Motorcraft updated turbo oil feed line
Motorcraft updated turbo oil return line
Motorcraft updated oil dipstick
Motorcraft updated IPR screen

Optional:
Install aftermarket metal oil filter cap (BPD or Sinister)
Install aftermarket metal oil fill cap (BPD)
Install aftermarket bypass oil filter setup (BPD)
Install aftermarket oil cooler assembly (IPPR or BPD)

I think about everyone on here knows about using Rotella T6, Rev-X, OEM filters, OEM filter cap, and a Fumoto drain valve, so I'm not gonna go into that. The updated STC fitting, HPOP screen, dummy plugs, stand pipes, turbo feed and return lines, IPR screen, and dipstick all make sense. They were parts that were re-designed and updated by Ford. They are things that should be installed during an oil cooler job as most of them can easily be accessed during this process.

Now, about the optional stuff. There are the optional metal caps out there. They are generally for the guys who are adding accessories like oil temp gauges, bypass oil filtration setups, etc. Generally the plastic caps don't have any issues unless someone is over-tightening them. I myself can't justify the price of the metal caps for looks-only. The bypass oil filter setup seems to just be one of those extra "things" you can install if you have the money. These trucks aren't fans of extended drain intervals, and it's been shown the OEM filter does a perfectly adequate job of filtering the oil, especially if you are using a good oil like Rotella T6. There's quite a few people out there who advise against the bypass filters as no matter what the 6.0 shears oil.

The oil cooler debate is a very heavy one around here. You have 3 setups generally - OEM, IPPR's remote setup, and BPD's air/oil setup. The OEM setup has been shown to work perfect with proper cooling system maintenance, and everyone here knows how it works. Ford has an updated oil cooler out now, so a lot of people choose to simply replace it for peace of mind. IPPR has what appears to be a great setup, but has draw-backs. It doesn't really provide any additional oil cooling ability, just makes it easier to replace the oil cooler down the road. It requires you to run the 100% filtration setup and makes it harder to perform normal oil changes, plus it's a bit pricey and hasn't really been proven well. BPD's setup is great and works extremely well, but you lose the ability to warm the oil using the cooling system and it may not be a good idea for those of us in very cold weather, plus it's VERY costly.

If anyone else has any input here that would be great. Everything should be consolidated here and since I can't edit my old posts I figured I would attempt a final thread for the oiling system.

 

I saw your two posts last night and thought maybe the threads were locked since nobody has responded. I'll go 1st

THANK YOU!!!

This is the sort of reliability to-do lists I've been working on myself. I'm still not convinced on the synthetic versus dino oil changed at a max of 5k intervals (unless the truck is in cold country).

I also don't even know what some of the items are or are for (dummy plugs, stand pipes?), but since I think I'm the only one -- I'll go do a bit more reading.

So a question for you: I see in your coolant post you refer to some items being on later models. I assume that means every Ford updated part on this list never made it into a production engine? I remember several years ago a thread just on the STC fitting and that was the final verdict (it was only an upgraded replacement part).

Thanks again. Some rep points comin' your way....

 

Thanks Cody, good thread and info.

-Mark

 

The synthetic oil is much nicer than the dino oil. Its cold pour point is much better making the truck start much easier in the cold. The dummy plugs and stand pipes are for the HPO system rails. Leaks in them will cause hard starts when warm.

As far as the updated parts thing - from what I can tell none of those parts made it onto any 6.0 besides the oil feed line. Late 06 and 07's had them from what I've read along with possibly the dipstick. I know without a doubt the updated oil cooler, STC fitting, HPOP screen, dummy plugs, stand pipes, oil return line, and IPR screen never made it on a 6.0. They were all parts that were created after the 6.0 finished its production run. I just went out and checked my 6.0 and found it's got the old feed line, so I'm gonna do everything.

 

Also, just to clarify, the HPOP screen is the same as the oil cooler screen. Some people just refer to it differently.

 

You might not want to consider either of these items, but either the Turbo cleaning kit (4C4Z-9V424-AA) or the Turbo mounting kit (3C3Z-9T514-AG) might be helpful while you are doing this project. Have not read all your threads so perhaps already mentioned.

 

Yes, I will be using those as well. I just didn't include them as they are considered part of normal work when doing a head stud job. Basically I just wanted to get a list of the updated parts and also upgrades that are available along the way.

 

Anything else guys?

 

Truck goes in soon, wish me luck! I think I've got all the oiling system stuff covered!

 

Truck gets started today. If there's anything else I should do I would love to hear it!

 

Just curious, but are there any other common oiling system parts that fail? I was thinking the oil pressure sensor in the valley was a common item but can't remember for sure.

 

Got the truck back, learned a couple things. The updated oil cooler kit (11 row) comes with the updated (stainless) oil cooler screen. Also, the updated STC fitting kit (stronger) comes with the updated (stainless) IPR screen as well.

Besides what I listed above, are there any other oil system upgrades or maintenance or do I have it taken care of?

 

Also, I found today after looking through my records that the oil pressure switch had been replaced at 83,162 miles, so I don't need to worry about that thing leaking.

 

I guess at this point the oiling system will be wrapped up. I won't be using the bypass filter setup as I don't really believe in it. Also, the IPR oil cooler setup really hasn't been proven yet, and for the price it costs it doesn't seem worth it. I will admit the BPD oil cooler setup is very nice, it just sucks that you lose the ability to warm the oil with the coolant and that the kit is so expensive. And finally, no need for the metal oil fill or oil filter caps, they're just too pricey for something that looks nice when the money could be spend elsewhere.

 

so you went with the Upgraded OEM OIL COOLER???

Thats what I did^^and Also went final charge coolant with a coolant filter its been almost 2 years temps are still good as day it was new far as I can tell threw my Gauges