C6 Leak(s)
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Memphis
C6 Leak(s)
As discussed in the Permatex post, my C6 transmission seems to be leaking around the edges of the pan. I was looking at it last night, and while it may or may not be leaking from the pan gasket, it definitely appears to be leading around the Manual Downshift Lever.
1. Is this common? I would think it is, since that lever is moves pretty frequently.
2. Can I replace the seal without opening up the tranny? I've looked at the service manual, and the instructions and photos are not super-helpful in this regard. I know I can do it if I take the tranny out and take the pan off, but can I do it short of that?
3. I've got no desire to rebuild an automatic transmission on my own. Auto tranny's just seem like something easy to screw up and expensive to correct. However, with the bolted cross-member, if I want to repair all the leaks and check the back end of the engine, is it possible to drop the transmission without taking the engine out? I do not have a lift, just jack-stands.
1. Is this common? I would think it is, since that lever is moves pretty frequently.
2. Can I replace the seal without opening up the tranny? I've looked at the service manual, and the instructions and photos are not super-helpful in this regard. I know I can do it if I take the tranny out and take the pan off, but can I do it short of that?
3. I've got no desire to rebuild an automatic transmission on my own. Auto tranny's just seem like something easy to screw up and expensive to correct. However, with the bolted cross-member, if I want to repair all the leaks and check the back end of the engine, is it possible to drop the transmission without taking the engine out? I do not have a lift, just jack-stands.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
As discussed in the Permatex post, my C6 transmission seems to be leaking around the edges of the pan. I was looking at it last night, and while it may or may not be leaking from the pan gasket, it definitely appears to be leading around the Manual Downshift Lever.
1. Is this common? I would think it is, since that lever is moves pretty frequently.
2. Can I replace the seal without opening up the tranny? I've looked at the service manual, and the instructions and photos are not super-helpful in this regard. I know I can do it if I take the tranny out and take the pan off, but can I do it short of that?
3. I've got no desire to rebuild an automatic transmission on my own. Auto tranny's just seem like something easy to screw up and expensive to correct. However, with the bolted cross-member, if I want to repair all the leaks and check the back end of the engine, is it possible to drop the transmission without taking the engine out? I do not have a lift, just jack-stands.
1. Is this common? I would think it is, since that lever is moves pretty frequently.
2. Can I replace the seal without opening up the tranny? I've looked at the service manual, and the instructions and photos are not super-helpful in this regard. I know I can do it if I take the tranny out and take the pan off, but can I do it short of that?
3. I've got no desire to rebuild an automatic transmission on my own. Auto tranny's just seem like something easy to screw up and expensive to correct. However, with the bolted cross-member, if I want to repair all the leaks and check the back end of the engine, is it possible to drop the transmission without taking the engine out? I do not have a lift, just jack-stands.
1.Common,not really. But that seal fit more than the C6 so Ford still sells them. I have two in stock as a matter of fact. There is an outer o-ring also. The seal is part number D5AZ7B498A. The o-ring is part number 386078S. It's 3/8" I.D X 15/32" o.d. X 3/32" thick.
2.The manual shift lever is a 2 piece unit that fit together. To get them apart to change the seal you have to go inside the case.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,920
Likes: 271
Disconnect the linkage from the steering column at the trans. Pull the pan. Shift the trans by hand and actuate the kickdown lever while looking how the linkage moves the valve body (take pics, if necessary.) Remove only the 3/8 headed bolts and drop the valve body.
Remove the 1/2 nut holding the kickdown lever on the outside of the linkage, remove the nut on the inside of the case holding the selector shaft (it's 7/8, I believe) make note of the position of the linkage on the outside and inside of the trans. (it is slotted so it can only go back together one way if the lever is in the right position) take pics inside and out if you need to. Slide the selector shaft out of the case. Take a flat blade screwdriver and pop the selector shaft seal out of the trans case. Wipe any dirt out of the hole. Coat the inside of the new seal with petroleum jelly and tap the seal into the hole using a socket that is the same diameter as the seal. Slide the kickdown lever shaft out of the selector shaft, clean the selector shaft kickdown shaft. Replace the kickdown o-ring in the end of the selector shaft. Reverse disassembly to assemble. Reinstall the valve body making sure to get the linkage tab into the valve body selector shaft notch and the kickdown lever behind the tip of the kickdown valve, tighten the 3/8 bolts to 100 in. lbs.
Make sure the edges of the trans pan are flat at the bolt hole area (use a small hammer to flatten any holes that aren't flat.) Clean and dry the pan. Wipe the pan gasket surface of the trans clean and dry with Brakekleen. Apply Gaskacinch to the trans pan gasket surface. Apply Gaskacinch to the pan side of a cork trans pan gasket. Let both dry for a few minutes.
Place the gasket onto the pan. Install the pan with clean, dry pan bolts. Tighten bolts finger tight. Slowly begin to tighten the pan bolts, alternating side to side and around, with a 1/4 drive ratchet just until you see the cork gasket begin to squish out. Dump in 4 qts. Type F fluid, start the truck and check the fluid level with the truck idling in park on level ground.
Remove the 1/2 nut holding the kickdown lever on the outside of the linkage, remove the nut on the inside of the case holding the selector shaft (it's 7/8, I believe) make note of the position of the linkage on the outside and inside of the trans. (it is slotted so it can only go back together one way if the lever is in the right position) take pics inside and out if you need to. Slide the selector shaft out of the case. Take a flat blade screwdriver and pop the selector shaft seal out of the trans case. Wipe any dirt out of the hole. Coat the inside of the new seal with petroleum jelly and tap the seal into the hole using a socket that is the same diameter as the seal. Slide the kickdown lever shaft out of the selector shaft, clean the selector shaft kickdown shaft. Replace the kickdown o-ring in the end of the selector shaft. Reverse disassembly to assemble. Reinstall the valve body making sure to get the linkage tab into the valve body selector shaft notch and the kickdown lever behind the tip of the kickdown valve, tighten the 3/8 bolts to 100 in. lbs.
Make sure the edges of the trans pan are flat at the bolt hole area (use a small hammer to flatten any holes that aren't flat.) Clean and dry the pan. Wipe the pan gasket surface of the trans clean and dry with Brakekleen. Apply Gaskacinch to the trans pan gasket surface. Apply Gaskacinch to the pan side of a cork trans pan gasket. Let both dry for a few minutes.
Place the gasket onto the pan. Install the pan with clean, dry pan bolts. Tighten bolts finger tight. Slowly begin to tighten the pan bolts, alternating side to side and around, with a 1/4 drive ratchet just until you see the cork gasket begin to squish out. Dump in 4 qts. Type F fluid, start the truck and check the fluid level with the truck idling in park on level ground.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Memphis
Disconnect the linkage from the steering column at the trans. Pull the pan. Shift the trans by hand and actuate the kickdown lever while looking how the linkage moves the valve body (take pics, if necessary.) Remove only the 3/8 headed bolts and drop the valve body.
Remove the 1/2 nut holding the kickdown lever on the outside of the linkage, remove the nut on the inside of the case holding the selector shaft (it's 7/8, I believe) make note of the position of the linkage on the outside and inside of the trans. (it is slotted so it can only go back together one way if the lever is in the right position) take pics inside and out if you need to. Slide the selector shaft out of the case. Take a flat blade screwdriver and pop the selector shaft seal out of the trans case. Wipe any dirt out of the hole. Coat the inside of the new seal with petroleum jelly and tap the seal into the hole using a socket that is the same diameter as the seal. Slide the kickdown lever shaft out of the selector shaft, clean the selector shaft kickdown shaft. Replace the kickdown o-ring in the end of the selector shaft. Reverse disassembly to assemble. Reinstall the valve body making sure to get the linkage tab into the valve body selector shaft notch and the kickdown lever behind, tightening the 3/8 bolts to 100 in. lbs.
Make sure the edges of the trans pan are flat at the bolt hole area (use a small hammer to flatten any holes that aren't flat.) Clean and dry the pan. Wipe the pan gasket surface of the trans clean and dry with Brakekleen. Apply Gaskacinch to the trans pan gasket surface. Apply Gaskacinch to the pan side of a cork trans pan gasket. Let both dry for a few minutes.
Place the gasket onto the pan. Install the pan with clean, dry pan bolts. Tighten bolts finger tight. Slowly begin to tighten the pan bolts, alternating side to side and around, with a 1/4 drive ratchet just until you see the cork gasket begin to squish out. Dump in 4 qts. Type F fluid, start the truck and check the fluid level with the truck idling in park on level ground.
Remove the 1/2 nut holding the kickdown lever on the outside of the linkage, remove the nut on the inside of the case holding the selector shaft (it's 7/8, I believe) make note of the position of the linkage on the outside and inside of the trans. (it is slotted so it can only go back together one way if the lever is in the right position) take pics inside and out if you need to. Slide the selector shaft out of the case. Take a flat blade screwdriver and pop the selector shaft seal out of the trans case. Wipe any dirt out of the hole. Coat the inside of the new seal with petroleum jelly and tap the seal into the hole using a socket that is the same diameter as the seal. Slide the kickdown lever shaft out of the selector shaft, clean the selector shaft kickdown shaft. Replace the kickdown o-ring in the end of the selector shaft. Reverse disassembly to assemble. Reinstall the valve body making sure to get the linkage tab into the valve body selector shaft notch and the kickdown lever behind, tightening the 3/8 bolts to 100 in. lbs.
Make sure the edges of the trans pan are flat at the bolt hole area (use a small hammer to flatten any holes that aren't flat.) Clean and dry the pan. Wipe the pan gasket surface of the trans clean and dry with Brakekleen. Apply Gaskacinch to the trans pan gasket surface. Apply Gaskacinch to the pan side of a cork trans pan gasket. Let both dry for a few minutes.
Place the gasket onto the pan. Install the pan with clean, dry pan bolts. Tighten bolts finger tight. Slowly begin to tighten the pan bolts, alternating side to side and around, with a 1/4 drive ratchet just until you see the cork gasket begin to squish out. Dump in 4 qts. Type F fluid, start the truck and check the fluid level with the truck idling in park on level ground.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,920
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I edited a couple of words regarding the valve body reinstall. I did a poor job proofreading my original post. Good luck. Don't be afraid to ask questions.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 3
From: Lincoln USA
I bought this jack in May of last year.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Summit-Transmission-Jack-Hydraulic-1000-lb-Capacity-8-1-4-To-24-Lift-Range-Steel-/191285013424?hash=item2c8979abb0&item=191285013424&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr
They're selling it now for $20 less than I paid for it. AND free shipping!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Summit-Transmission-Jack-Hydraulic-1000-lb-Capacity-8-1-4-To-24-Lift-Range-Steel-/191285013424?hash=item2c8979abb0&item=191285013424&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr
They're selling it now for $20 less than I paid for it. AND free shipping!
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Memphis
This looks like a good price. Any thoughts on the risk of such a purchase?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Truck-C6-Transmission-Gasket-amp-Seal-Kit-w-Bushing-/260768210756?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Truck-C6-Transmission-Gasket-amp-Seal-Kit-w-Bushing-/260768210756?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
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