Found my mother F'n leak! Blown o ring on top of HPOP going to branch tube. New question is, will an o ring from tractor supply work? Or is it a special material?

 

Why don't ya just order the right part and fix it once

 

Because International doesn't have it and they were closing, the guy gave me the number for the o ring size and I was wondering if it's just a regular o ring. Tractor Supply had the same size.

 

You sir are a man after my own heart!

I would do the same thing if I was in a tight spot and needed it up and running. As long as the o-ring material is the same, then there SHOULD not be a problem. That being said how much work was it to get down to that point of the engine? Would it be worth it to wait and get the right o-ring? If you are like me I hate doing the same thing twice.

Here is an example of my MacGyvering that bit me...

Had to do a water pump on my Ex. I didn't have the fancy air hammer fan tool. I got a cheap tool and used it. I ended up bending the pulley a bit. Had a family emergency and sent it to a buddy of mine halfway through that WP replacement to finish it.
He got it back together and called me up and said listen to this. It was squeaking and I told him I didn't want it back till he found the squeak. 30 mins later he calls me back and says the WP pulley was cracked in 2 places and he could fix it since there was no replacement around for 3 states. He is a certified welder and I trust his work. I picked it up the next day.

Fast forward 6 mos. I had every intention of ordering a new WP pulley....forgot all about it. Going down the road one day the alternator light flickers, the steering wheel twitches not once but 3 times over a half mile. Scan gauge voltage goes to 0 and I pull over. When I pop the hood the belt was wrapped around what was left of my WP pulley.

4 days to get a pulley and get it installed the second time.

Just food dor thought...

 

Okay, so here's the plan. I bought the o ring from Tractor Supply, installed it and reassembled to a point I could air test. The o ring is the problem and I hear no more air running. Tomorrow I will proceed with reassembling the motor to a point just short of the HPOP (I have the valve covers and everything off). Monday a new branch tube o ring kit will be ordered, and all connections will be replaced under the HPOP cover. Common sense would say there is a difference between my $0.33 o ring and the $74.00 kit from the diesel suppliers I'm seeing on the Internet.

 

Call Clay at RIFFRAFF FORD DIESEL PERFORMANCE PARTS
They are down in Oregon and may be able to
get the part to you for less.


Sean

 

I will do that, thanks for all your help with this. You've been a huge help with this process.

 

When you get it running you have to come down for the chapter get together.

Sean

 

Where and when, I'm pretty busy, but I'll try. Everyone here has been a huge help.

 

So, its been about 1.5 months since I made my repairs to the o-rings and everything has been running great. I want to give a special shout out to Yahiko and say thank you. Your help and guidance was instrumental in me getting my EX fixed for my wife and kids, without having to spend a thousand dollars at a dealership. I've attempted to give more reps, but the system won't let me. Thank you again. Now on to the fun stuff!

 

I love a happy ending!

 

Sean / Eric,


Its an 05 Excursion. Unless I'm badly mistaken, they had the late 04 engine package with the early model HPO pumps. So, it will be a late 04 vintage HPOP.


It sounds like a definitive HP oil leak. Two possibilities.


1) Was it an OEM oil cooler or aftermarket? If OEM, go to step 2. If aftermarket, you could be loosing oil there. However, that usually pours oil onto the ground because the oil cooler cover gasket leaks onto the outside of the engine.


2) The late 04 HPOP have a high failure rate. I am not familiar with the brand you have, but I'm not sure there are any late 04 types with a better track record than OEM HPOPs. So, the replaced HPOP may have failed. But, it is unusual for the late 04 type pumps to fail suddenly. Its more of a gradual failure with hot not starts.


3) It needs to be air tested regardless to find the source of the leak.