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Ok I need help my dad has a 2004 f250 super duty with the 6.0 and went down for the EGR cooler again we changed up with the bulletproof one and they also changed oil cooler tried to start it and found an oil leak on top of oil cooler so we replace the seal try to start it again and would not startafter bleeding the diesel fuel finally got it to start but would not go over 1800 RPMs thought it was the HPOPor the IRP we change them both and blood the fuel again and still will not start it'll crank over and act like it's firing but will not run we do have a oil on the factory gauge the put a code reader onto it as we've done before and finally came up with an ICP fault change the ICP and still the same The truck has about 195,000 miles in the cold reader reads pretty much faults not pressure or voltageif there's anything that you see that I've messed please message me back
You're going to need something to read IPR percentage, and ICP, FICM volts etc. You're pretty much in the dark with these engines without being able to read those values
It can take a lot of cranking to get oil back through the HPO system after changing the ICP, IPR, and pump. I'd put a charger on the batteries and try some more.
If you want to speed up the process a little, pull the oil filter and standpipe out of the housing and pour a quart of oil in the hole. This will fill the HPO resivour and give you a little head start. The standpipe has three Torx screws at the base, only the one at the rear position needs to come out. Loosen the other two just a bit and twist to remove. It's plastic and can break if you get heavy handed with it.
There is a no start thread in the tech folder also, it has some good info on some things to check.
Ok we got it to start and run good at idle but whenu give it has it start blogging down around 1000 rpm and after a while of sit there and drive it and also put fresh Diesel in it started to run better but still does not have the take off like it use to
If you have a check engine light on, most of the auto parts stores will scan for fault codes for free. It's also possible to have a code set without the light being on. Might get you on the right track.
I think there is a low power thread in the Tech folder also. Might be something in there that ring a bell for you.
If you just want to take a swing at it, new fuel filters is a good place to start.
Well after getting the scan gauge 2 and programming it we find out it was the ficm was losing volt when crank after we replace it it start just find but took it a little bit of drive to get the power back thank for all of ur help