70 f-250 help
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New User
Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Charlotte
70 f-250 help
Im 20 years old I don't know much about antique trucks and I am looking at purchasing a 70 f-250 here soon, and I looked up the vin and it has the wrong motor and tranny in it. It was supposed to have the 240 with a 3 in the floor and it has the 300 with a 4 in the floor, and I need some help with the truck. for one I don't know how to switch between the two gas tanks that are in the truck or if it does it automatically. I also don't know if I should restore it to vin if it would be worth anything its got the long wheel base and its the skyblue interior/exterior or if I should just build it up as a work/hunting truck. I also don't know how to tell if it has the half ton rear or the 3/4 ton. I would also love to take any advice on what else I should to to the tuck whether I am restoring it or turning it into a work/hunt truck.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 346
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From: Memphis
Welcome!
I am going to guess, since you're 20 and buying a truck that is more than twice as old as you are, that you don't have loads of extra cash just lying around. And full restoration isn't cheap, no matter how you slice it. And at the end of the day, even a beautifully restored 250 is still essentially a work truck. The ceiling for resale value is not very high. These are not classic Ferraris.
So, I would say you should do whatever you like and can afford. Don't worry about making it "correct." Make it what you want it to be. There are loads of trucks represented here with different-than-original engines, axles, transmissions, interiors, etc., which is great. Folks are doing what they like.
Stick around, you'll learn a ton. I know I have.
I am going to guess, since you're 20 and buying a truck that is more than twice as old as you are, that you don't have loads of extra cash just lying around. And full restoration isn't cheap, no matter how you slice it. And at the end of the day, even a beautifully restored 250 is still essentially a work truck. The ceiling for resale value is not very high. These are not classic Ferraris.
So, I would say you should do whatever you like and can afford. Don't worry about making it "correct." Make it what you want it to be. There are loads of trucks represented here with different-than-original engines, axles, transmissions, interiors, etc., which is great. Folks are doing what they like.
Stick around, you'll learn a ton. I know I have.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
An F250 would have 8 lugs all the way around.... and a Dana 60 rear axle.
The fuel tank switch should be manual and located left of the driver on the floor board. Look underneath the cab under the driver's seat.. the valve is between the frame and rocker.
A restored truck will never be worth the money you put into it. For example, a '70 grill shell is around $600 retail, headlight doors around $90 each, and inserts about $70 each. Do the math!
If it is already non-stock then use your artistic and mechanical license with good workmanship standards to make your truck reliable, fun, and safe. Improve what is there and don't get overly concerned with "correctness"... use salvage parts where it makes sense and new parts where it will really count. Enjoy.
Btw, if you're looking if ever to lower it then start with an F100.
The fuel tank switch should be manual and located left of the driver on the floor board. Look underneath the cab under the driver's seat.. the valve is between the frame and rocker.
A restored truck will never be worth the money you put into it. For example, a '70 grill shell is around $600 retail, headlight doors around $90 each, and inserts about $70 each. Do the math!
If it is already non-stock then use your artistic and mechanical license with good workmanship standards to make your truck reliable, fun, and safe. Improve what is there and don't get overly concerned with "correctness"... use salvage parts where it makes sense and new parts where it will really count. Enjoy.
Btw, if you're looking if ever to lower it then start with an F100.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Like what has been said, do what you want with what you can afford. Even in "mint showroom condition" you couldn't get more than 15k from it. And you'd be lucky at that.
300 is a good motor. Not fast, but strong. 4 on the floor is better than 3 on the tree.
If it were me, I'd fix the mechanicals and clean it up some, then drive it hard. It's tough.
300 is a good motor. Not fast, but strong. 4 on the floor is better than 3 on the tree.
If it were me, I'd fix the mechanicals and clean it up some, then drive it hard. It's tough.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Smalltownboy, Welcome to 
and the Bumpside Forum. 
Couple things the 240/300 are basically the same engine different stroke, one has 240 cid the other 300. There were no floor mount 3 spds offered, only 4, often referred to as 3 spd with granny low.
As noted 8 lug wheels for the F250 & 350, 5 lugs for the half ton 100. A half ton 100 will be cheaper to operate, brakes, tires, less for replacement and better mpgs.
John
and the Bumpside Forum. Couple things the 240/300 are basically the same engine different stroke, one has 240 cid the other 300. There were no floor mount 3 spds offered, only 4, often referred to as 3 spd with granny low.
As noted 8 lug wheels for the F250 & 350, 5 lugs for the half ton 100. A half ton 100 will be cheaper to operate, brakes, tires, less for replacement and better mpgs.
John
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
1967/72 F100/350 with optional factory installed 25 gallon auxiliary fuel tank:
The manually operated fuel tank selector valve is located on the floor adjacent to the drivers side of the seat.
Located on a bracket, at the bottom of the dash...to the left (drivers side) of the steering column is the fuel tank selector switch.
This switch only changes the dash fuel gauge from the in-cab tank to the 25 gallon auxiliary tank and vice versa.
1970/72 F100/350: The fuel filler tube and cap pokes thru the bedside below the scallop (bumpside) line in front of the left (drivers side) rear wheel.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford did not offer a 3 speed manual with a floor shift after 1952, so originally...this F250's shift lever was on the column.
4th digit of the VIN is the engine code. 1968/72 F250: A = 240 1V I-6 / B = 300 1V I-6 / H = 390 2V / Y = 360 2V
TRANS code stamped on the 2nd line of the Warranty Plate, located on the left door face below the latch.
1968/72 F250: A = New Process 435 4 speed / C = 3 speed manual / F = Warner T-18 4 speed / G = A/T.
The manually operated fuel tank selector valve is located on the floor adjacent to the drivers side of the seat.
Located on a bracket, at the bottom of the dash...to the left (drivers side) of the steering column is the fuel tank selector switch.
This switch only changes the dash fuel gauge from the in-cab tank to the 25 gallon auxiliary tank and vice versa.
1970/72 F100/350: The fuel filler tube and cap pokes thru the bedside below the scallop (bumpside) line in front of the left (drivers side) rear wheel.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford did not offer a 3 speed manual with a floor shift after 1952, so originally...this F250's shift lever was on the column.
4th digit of the VIN is the engine code. 1968/72 F250: A = 240 1V I-6 / B = 300 1V I-6 / H = 390 2V / Y = 360 2V
TRANS code stamped on the 2nd line of the Warranty Plate, located on the left door face below the latch.
1968/72 F250: A = New Process 435 4 speed / C = 3 speed manual / F = Warner T-18 4 speed / G = A/T.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 8
From: Langley, BC
That's what you think! Just kidding. You're right. But it can be made to go fast!
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New User
Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Charlotte
thanks all for the advice I'm glad to hear I should just make it what I want I plan on going back with the sky blue. I have a 4wd 5 speed lined up to change out once I can find the front end to put in. I will put pictures up on my profile when I get around to it. I really is a good truck to start out on there is a little fab work to be done a little rust repair to go through but Its going to be a fun first truck. And you're all right about that 300 I have had some good experiences with my buddies truck. Would anyone know where I'd be able to find a hood that is a little beyond my fabrication experience. the hood is mostly there but rust has a good hold on the underside of it.
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