Hi guys, if you read my previous thread then FYI I decided to keep the truck and replace the water pump myself. This is my first time ever doing this, with any vehicle, so some help would be appreciated.

First off, does it matter which brand I buy, and whether it is new or remanufactured? Do they come with a gasket or do I need to buy one? What kind of sealant will I want to buy for the gasket and for any bolts I will be replacing?

I found this walkthrough write-up on the AutoZone site, do I want to follow this "to a T"? Under the "diesel engines" section at the bottom, of course. | Repair Guides | Engine Mechanical | Water Pump | AutoZone.com

My truck doesn't have A/C, so I won't worry about that part. But other than that just making sure that I need to take off the power steering, vacuum pump, and alternator belts... as well as the water pump pulley.

After that, it seems like it's pretty straight-forward enough for me to do this. I know about making sure the right length bolts go back where they were, I'm guessing the pump will come with new bolts so I just match up the lengths to the ones that were in there and I'll be good?

In these instructions, I don't see anything about removing the fan clutch, the part that I need to rent a tool for.. is there a reason why they left this out? I'm not even sure what a fan clutch is, so I'm hoping this is self-explanatory once I look at it. Do I need to completely remove the fan as well?

Any other tips would be appreciated, or if anyone has a link to a DETAILED walkthrough for this. Again, I am a beginner... I have always done my own repairs but that has been fairly limited.

Zac

 

The pump usually comes with gaskets, but no bolts. Make sure you have some silicone caulk around(proper RTV may be good, I just use black Silicone Tub & Tile caulk; works a treat), you need to put it on the top two bolts(which are also shorter than the rest), or you will leak a little oil from those bolts.

Instructions wise, just drain the radiator, then take off whatever you need to to get the water pump out. Then put the new water pump on.
As long as you have wrenches and sockets, it won't take more than a few hours, even for a newbie.

 

The fan clutch is usually a REAL PAIN to get off. The tool that you rent wouldn't work for mine, just spread open instead of holding. AkaMacGyver has a good write-up with pics on how to use a wench to hold the pulley. I use an 1-7\8 wrench to turn the clutch. I would link the write-up, but I can't get it to work on my phone.

 

I'm trying to understand what you're saying about the fan clutch but have no idea. What would I be spreading open and what would I be holding? I imagine the pulley is one of them, is that the pulley on the front, right behind where the fan goes on? I want to remove that whole pulley, which is where the tool comes into play, correct?

I just went and bought a new (re-manufactured) water pump... only $36. Plus I get $7 core charge back when I return the old one. Not sure why it was so much cheaper at this store than anywhere else, but it looks good and should get the job done. It's a "Titan" brand, did a search and couldn't find anything saying NOT to use it, so I figured it would be fine.

 

I apologize. The rented tool comes with two wrenches that are very thin. One goes over the bolts that holds the pulley to the water pump. The other one goes over the big nut on the fan clutch. You want to hold the pulley and keep it from turning while you turn the nut on the clutch. Mine has left hand threads on the clutch.

 

The fan clutch on these engines screws directly onto the water pump shaft, unlike bolting to a flange like a traditional pump. You have to devise a way to hold the pump/pullys from spinning while unscrewing the clutch. And it's reverse thread IIRC.

 

Ah, I see now. That makes sense. I called Auto Zone and they do have the correct tool, so I will be going to rent it tomorrow morning. I also need to pick up some sealant, I've read a few different kinds but am not sure what I should use.. do I want to use the same for the gasket as I do the bolts?

Also from what I can tell, I only want to use sealant on the top two bolts, correct?

Zac

 

Thanks Chevy. I try a little too hard sometimes!

 

I just use gasket tack or shellac on the gasket myself, you can use RTV if you wish. Yes, you do need to seal those top tow bolts and make sure you put the bolts back in the holes they came out of. If you use one of the longer bolts in the top it'll come in contact with the timing gear inside.

I did a search and found a couple of threads that might be helpful:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12716668



https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11535216

 

 

When I've taken the fan clutch off, I've just used a large crescent wrench and put some force on the belts to keep it tight. Even with a little slippage, it worked.

'Course, I don't know how easy it will be to get off now... I had it fall off on me once from not being tight enough and put super glue on the threads... <_<

 

Hopefully I don't get my hands slapped for this Replacing water pump

 

Started the job today.. ran into a problem already. Taking the fan shroud off, the bottom bolt on driver's side is impossible to get to with a ratchet, since the air intake tube is in the way. Do I have to remove this tube? I don't know what else to do, unless I had one of those bending ratchet tools. Anyone else ran into this?

 

Just remove the intake tubing. One small bolt on top, slide it up to clear the lower clip.

 

Cool, that made it easier. Well I got the fan shroud off, now it looks like the next step is removing the fan and clutch assembly. I got the tool from Auto Zone to do this, can somebody explain what I'm trying to do here? I don't see any bolts on the front of the fan, only the 4 bolts on the pulley behind the fan.

And thanks, this is a big help.