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Is it common for them to crud up that bad?? I was astounded by the appearance of the EGR. If they weren't so expensive, I'd of thrown it away and started over.
Been doing some emails with a diesel only repair shop in La Crosse WI. (not too far from home) He says he suspects a temperature disparity with either oil or coolant. You may have nailed it. This place has worked on a lot of 6.0 liters and expresses optimism about a successful outcome. But I'm still working it out at home with help from the forum. Thanks.
I have spent countless hours in front of this screen trying to gain some knowledge of my newly acquired 6.0 l engine. Having read the blogs, looked at pictures and watched videos, I have noticed that it appears that a lot of replacements, ie. EGR cooler, oil cooler etc. are being done on engines that are no longer in the vehicle. Some have cabs removed. Is this necessary for repairs in general? If so, this home mechanic is screwed!
No, you don't have to pull the cab for those repairs. In fact, if you're a home mechanic without a hoist (like me) there is no need to ever pull the cab - you can pull the engine if the repair is too hard to do. After pulling my ARP studs to 210 lbs/ft on an engine stand, I have new appreciation for those that do it in the truck.
One thing I discovered that makes it easier is to lay a big folded up piece of indoor-outdoor carpet over the engine when you're working on it. Saves lots of scrapes and bruising.
A sheetrock bench comes in handy to stand on in front of the bumper.
You can adjust it to the right hight and with something to lean on and
cover the hood latch it makes life so much more easy.
Lost of walking space and so many other uses. Just keep the wife away
of you will never see it again. Just too useful.
I like the looks of that... just put it on my list of things I need if(when) I have to tear into this thing again.
And if I've got anything extensive to do, that latch gets unbolted. And I'm going to start popping the grill out too - just 4 screws and it's out. It really likes to grab the boys and rough them up a bit when I'm sliding down the front... although that bench would probably stop that.
I like the looks of that... just put it on my list of things I need if(when) I have to tear into this thing again.
And if I've got anything extensive to do, that latch gets unbolted. And I'm going to start popping the grill out too - just 4 screws and it's out. It really likes to grab the boys and rough them up a bit when I'm sliding down the front... although that bench would probably stop that.
I need a little confidence boost. I have rebuilt a couple of Chevy 327's from the crank up. I have never worked on a diesel. I have watched most every You Tube video re: EGR and oil cooler replacement. The fellows doing the work don't look any smarter than me, but I suspect they are. Are you fellows doing your own work or farming it out? Other than the need for a set of metrics, and with time on my side (still driving my F250 V10) I think I can 'get 'er done'. Any encouragement out there??
If you can rebuild an engine you can replace the EGR and oil coolers.
Just stay organized. I use a long table, neatly line up every part I take off, and put it back together in reverse order. Keep all nuts and bolts with the parts. Take your time and clean parts i.e. Intake, turbo, oil filter assembly etc...
You will be fine... Pop in here and ask questions as needed. The folks here have your back!
Oh and make sure the FICM connectors snap in place and line up Y-Pipe. Experience talking here...
If you had the crank out of a V8 and put it back together (and it ran) this won't be a problem for you. I will say it's damn uncomfortable working under the hood for extended periods and there are a few bolts that are a booger to get at properly. I did my oil and EGR cooler and STC replacement back in 2012 and took a bunch of pictures, the thread is here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...many-pics.html . Really not that bad. I've done a couple more since then and was much faster but I also spent less time cleaning parts. I also broke my fan shroud when I tried to pull the intake with the fan shroud bolts still in place, they're kinda hidden. A good selection of hand tools is a must and ratcheting Gearwrench type wrenches come in handy a lot. Great bunch of folks here will be glad to help also if you have a question along the way and the torques are in the back of the coffe table books in the Tech folder.
I'm not sure if solvents will hurt it but I just used a small brush from a gun cleaning kit.
Sorry to hijack OP but rusty where and what is this sensor you have pictured? I'm pretty good with sensors and switches on this truck but I'm confused with this one!
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