1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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1973 F100 - Grumpy

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  #31  
Old 08-29-2014, 11:07 PM
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Geese sounds like Grumpy is living up to his name. And that for sure can get really frustrating. But just think of the fun you'll have with him tearing up the asphalt when you do get him going again. That'll make it all worth it in the end.
 
  #32  
Old 08-30-2014, 05:17 PM
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ya he's living up to his name lol

well today I went and took off the gas pump. stupid easy. shoulda done it yesterday. no stores have it in my town... so I am going to Regina, SK on the first and I will just stop at a napa or something up there and get one.


Buddy had a new one in box from his IH 347 gas. looks identical except for the horn going into the block... oh well..



old points and condenser


topper I got for grumpy. has a double back door in one. fits the truck i think



and back to sleep. still no windows installed. Found out an uncle has a rear glass in his quonset out of a 77. put in a sliding rear glass he said. of course after i have the glass ordered...
 
  #33  
Old 09-03-2014, 08:48 PM
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found ONE fuel pump at NAPA north in Regina... $50 but atleast I HAVE THE THING!!!


gonna be project for friday.

 
  #34  
Old 09-04-2014, 01:06 AM
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Finally reading your thread with my laptop, can now see your from Estevan, hows the Alemeda. Hio should have "replace your fuel pump upon purchase" in his sticky notes. You should get some rubber fuel line to and replace that also as thats due to fail. It usually dries out and cracks when you start driving your truck, The curse of vacationing in a field. Anything thats a rubber line will be pretty dry and brittle, ie vacumn lines, brake lines etc.

I see Regina kicked Winnipegs butt again this year, Ronnie Lancaster used to do it when I was a kid, we used to refer to it as a Lancaster bombing. I went to school with Glen Harper, Reginas kicker for a few years, if you don't remember him your Dad will. I think those were the years he was cursing the Riders. A white truck in a prairie field?, I'm surprised there weren't snowmobile tracks over it

Enjoy the build, if your ever heading Calgary way pm me and give me a parts list. As long as it's not a wind shield I probly got it including tailights and most trim. I'm turning 2 trucks into flat decks.
 
  #35  
Old 09-04-2014, 09:43 AM
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cheers from heres lol

yeah it was in a pasture with horses and bison so big 8' square page wire fences around the field. still some idiots get in there.. that super cab has intake and up gone and a bent over hood, the red 81 gmc has been stripped... the red gmc 3 tons have had stuff stollen off the motors... some minivans were parted out to.

anyhow Grumpy got another package in the mail. now he can see correctly again!


I now also have a spare points and condenser. not sure if I need that rotor yet. the one on Grumpy looks pretty good still. Tomorrow is Fuel pump day! just hope the rain goes away.. 40mm overnight. thats 4cm and 2.5 cm in an inch... so thats like an inch and a 1/4! harvest has stopped dead around here now...
 
  #36  
Old 09-04-2014, 10:49 PM
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Cold september rains, almost as bad as hail, hope this warm snap heads your way. Got pulled out of school one year so that I could run the fuel, lube and food truck so that everyone could stay on the field. Thought I saw a dentside in one of your pics, was drooling over all that project metal like Homer over porkchops. On my trip to Vancouver I picked up some neon rubber sunglasses and bootleg Freddy Krueger/Batman shirts and carnied my way there. One of the fairs I worked was Estevan. That highway to # 1 has got to be one of the hardest straight lines to drive, but I guess you guys are half assed used to it. Those light rings are such a pita it pays to snag em every chance you can, theres gold in them rings.

Just came in to grab a soup & sandwich, listen to the CBofC, check the forum and then back to the shop to do some insulating and put in a upper storage. I need some wooden to bang my head on. Seeing as soup is ready I guess I'm done.

If you can drop your gas tank now and clean up your contacts, wash that sock on your fuel pickup and give that tank a quik rinse. It's a pita I know but your probably going to have to do it sooner than later. Now is when it's cheap to do. have a good day.
 
  #37  
Old 09-06-2014, 12:16 AM
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they are actually re-surfacing and twinning that highway. twining begins next year.

Grumpy living up to his name today... Got the fuel pump installed, got his other eye re-installed (forgot pics lol) and gave him some prime for a good time and got him running and.... he was P#%@$ fuel out of the carb all over the place... crap...

so off came the carb


And yeah... someone shoot the guy that thought red silicone was a good idea for intake...






Yeah this was the spacer platet thing... there is supposed to be two tubes there..




and by the end of the day we got the carb back together... and the spacer thing ended up having two holes eaten through it. we used JBweld to get the gaps filled. will see how it holds up tomorrow.
 
  #38  
Old 09-06-2014, 02:08 AM
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That spacer plate thing that you jb welded is your EGR plate, I,ve got one thats on my 400, c6 that I'll take a pic of tomorrow so that you can compare with. It looks like yours is complete but just in case its not you'll have something to compare it to. I should have a loose one to or its mounted on a manifold in my shed. I'm pretty busy tomorrow between a dump run, fast idling carb and company that just got here.
 
  #39  
Old 09-06-2014, 10:59 PM
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guess ii never got an after pic of egr plate. looked good. holing up.

and GUESS WHAT!!??? I DROVE GRUMPY OFF THE TRAILER!!!


Before putting the carb back on I scraped and vac'ed as much stuff as I could. guess what. I have some good ol "POWERED BY FORD" valve covers lol!


And after some engine cleaner and pressure washing it looks allot better under the hood!
 
  #40  
Old 09-07-2014, 12:06 AM
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split 3 short cell phone videos together from today.

 
  #41  
Old 09-07-2014, 08:20 PM
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Well.... crap. It had been getting warm and when shutting off it backfires after 3 to 4 seconds...

After getting home from work today (8 mile commute from 30 to 50 mph) and got home and parked out front and temp was firmly in the middle of "P" in the temp guage. Shut it off and KA POW!! then I could see steam from under the hood. Got out and safely opened the hood and its the rad cap hisssssing steam out... and its all rusty coloured....


One guy says timing. Others say carb needs adjustment. I know it needs a thermostat and a cleaning.


 
  #42  
Old 09-07-2014, 09:06 PM
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Subscribed. Cool thread. I dig "revivals".

Privateer, I'll make a note of fuel pump replacement on these resurrections.

When reviving a derelict rig, it's prolly better to leave nothing to chance. I am surprised that ya didn't at least drain & refill the cooling system - even with straight water. C'est l'vie. I suggest back flushing the radiator, heater core, and block... good time to do it is when replacing the t-stat.

I don't recall if small blocks have pet***** or pipe plugs on the sides of the block. If so, pull those too. I undid my FE's on an engine stand and nothing came out until I poked it with a scribe. Then about a quart of muck, rust, and grit gushed out.

In terms of the backfire, 2x on the carb adjustment plus check your points. Sometimes they can slip. Backfires are also caused by bad timing. A cylinder(s) are receiving an air/fuel charge and lighting off when it's not supposed to. I don't suppose ya pulled the valve covers to inspect the valve train? Bent push rod??

That's funny about discovering 'Powered By Ford' on the covers.

Lastly, thanks for publishing the 73 owners manual. I read it cover to cover.
 
  #43  
Old 09-07-2014, 10:00 PM
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Congratulations on the revival . In situations like this, teething pains are to be expected.
One thing I notice is the odd options that some trucks are equipped with. Your truck is pretty much bare bones, manual brakes and steering, non-A/C. But it has the dual horn option.
 
  #44  
Old 09-07-2014, 10:10 PM
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Not to sound like an old woman, these old field find trucks have a few things that need to be looked over before you get to much into driving them. We, I mean myself and other Fte'rs sometimes forget to tell you the things that made us curse our field finds/scores. I think we do it in order to not scare or discourage each other.

Anything thats made of rubber or has rubber in it is going to be dried out, rear wheel seals, fuel lines, window and door moldings, brake lines and I'm sure other readers have things to add to the list.

Anything that holds oil or hydraulic fluid will have picked up moisture or is starting to seperate, rear end, trans, brakes, crankcase you get the idea. If it is lubed the lube or grease has started to turn hard or is as hard as a hockey puck, wheel bearings, front end steering linkages, king pins and universals..

This is part of your truck tune up that quite often gets overlooked or is put off until it's forgotten until theres a break down. The list is longer and my senility gets bad when I over exercise my synaptic nerve endings, oh well back to the spider solitare

Give that rad a good flush and double check your heater hoses before they pop. I hear it still hits -40 with a 50 mph wind on the prairies come winter, global warming.

There is a check list on this forum, if it was'nt written by Hio he'll know which sticky link to go to. Have better luck in the future with the truck, but try to change your luck if you can..... Now wheres my walker and cane.... scat you evil cat.... run like hell, the devil's coming for you....
 
  #45  
Old 09-07-2014, 10:50 PM
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By request.. it's not stickied so here it is. More written for a potential buy rather than one already bought but you get the idea:

"Here's what I do to every new-to-me vehicle. Doing some of these simple steps when looking at a vehicle to buy can also reveal stuff the seller may not tell ya.:

Preserve sanity.
Grab a trash bag and a small box… trash and garbage goes in the bag and any spare parts goes into the box. The owners manual and, if present, fuses goes in the glove box.
Powerwash the body, wheel wells, and even the engine compartment.
Vacuum it out. Cleanliness is next to….

Basic Visual Inspection
Grab a note pad and do a bumper to bumper visual inspection.. this is also time to go on “Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.
On the notepad make three columns/categories:
Gotta fix/replace now.. these include safety items like lights and brakes, cab mounts;
Gotta fix/upgrade/replace soon or “The Watch List” – floor pans.; and,
Fix later – rust holes, old wiper blades, loose ***** and switches.
Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bellhousing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.

Fluid Check.
You’re just doing this so ya don’t burn anything up and the fluids will be replaced later.
Engine oil, coolant, auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid. If possible, front and rear axle lube, T-case, and gear lube in a manual trans.
Air up the tires and the spare.

Hardware Check (Bumper to Bumper)
With a screwdriver, sockets, and wrenches double-check the tightness of everything that is easily accessible.
Torque the lug nuts.
Tighten hose clamps in the engine compartment.
Double-check spark plugs and seat the plug wires. I like to also verify the firing order.

Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure.
Turn on the ignition system (no engine start). Turn on everything - blower motor, exterior and interior lights, turn signals, hazards, heater controls, wipers, etc.

Engine Start.
With a fire extinguisher at the ready, fire it up and let’er cook.
Set the idle speed and timing.
Verify that the thermostat works by leaving off the rad cap. You’ll see the coolant flowing which is an indication that the thermostat had indeed opened.
Take it for a test drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops.
Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats.
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.

Full Tune Up (to establish a baseline)
Rebuild the carburetor!!!
Replace points, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.
Change the engine oil and oil filter.
Change coolant, axle gear lube, transmission, & T-case lube.
Replace air and fuel filter. If it has been sitting for more than five years, change the fuel pump!
Bleed and change brake fluid.
Replace all the drive belts and at least the radiator hoses.
Take a grease gun and service all grease fittings.
Lube door latches, locks, tailgate latches, door hinges, etc.
"
 


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