Brian - Where did you get your turbo with no core charge. I found them at Autozone, but they have a $285 core charge. Did you get the complete turbo including the housing or just the cartridge?

 

Rotomaster is an A/M turbo. They are sold new only to my knowledge, at least at this time.

 

Rotomaster NEW Upgraded VNT Turbo 04-07 6.0L Ford Powerstroke

They make many OEM turbo's for different manufacturers, they make rebuild parts and do rebuilding of other turbo's. I've found nothing but good about them so far.The guy at diesel power products said they've sold a lot of them with zero come-backs. It's absolutely complete and ready to install, includes the O-ring and bolt kit.

Brian

 

Howdy,

Just looked at the Rotomaster site. They've been around providing turbochargers for many years.

Looks like the 6.0L replacement turbo has stainless steel VNT components that would largely solve the "sooting-up" and corrosion problems that cause the unison ring and vanes to frequently stick causing a low/no boost or overboost condition
(other VNT turbos don't seem to have this problem)

Anybody else tried one of these?




Cheers,


Rick

 

Back to the oil cooler question. How fast did it cool off after you slowed down?
If it dropped fairly fast then that is one way to know that the cooler is working.
If you find that it did not drop as you slowed down then I would start to investigate
to see if there was a problem or not. One thing to do when you see the temps start
to clime is slow down with a downshift to get the RPMs up so you will move more air.

Sean

 

MC5C, I was thinking that I had to do the oil cooler and EGR but based on this thread I am thinking my symptoms point more to the turbo. How difficult/how much time involved to swap in the new turbo?

Thanks,
Tom

 

Time. That is a question and a half. If you get all the tools in place, have good luck with seized bolts, loosen the up-tube connections to the manifold from underneath (I didn't) and don't break anything, you can re-and-re the turbo in about 2 hours. That's if you know how to do it. I didn't know how to do it, didn't loosen the up-tube connections at the manifold, had to figure out what tools to use to get at some of the hard to reach bolts, had to find my old air ratchet to tighten down some of the vee-band clamp nuts, yada yada yada. It took me about three hours to get it out and about an hour to put it back in.

Loosening the up-pipe is what gives you the wiggle on the up-pipe to get the connection well and truly seated before you tighten the vee-band clamp. If you don't get it really well seated and think that the vee-band clamp will pull it together, you will have an exhaust leak and have to do it over. What I did is get the turbo in place, start one of the three bolts that hold it down so the turbo had a lot of wiggle, and then work the up-pipe into place and get it clamped down really well. Only then did I lever the turbo around to get the other front bolt started and bolted it down. Only then did I even think about getting the third bolt started from the back, but it went really easily.

I had no leaks, the CAC boots didn't blow off, and the new drain tube only fell out once as I was trying to figure out how to get it to stay in place as I held the turbo and tried to fit the lower end in while not knocking the upper end out of place. Answer is luck, tenacity and grow a third arm.

Brian

 

Cleaning your turbo unison ring will run you about 600 bucks labor if no damage. Happened to me about 85k,pulling a P0299 code. It's not if, but when.

 

MANY THANKS for such a detailed response and step by step description!! Really appreciate your time!