After a 2,000 miles trip towing about 6K# with my '04 Excursion 6.0 it ran rough the next day on startup but once warm it ran fine. All the symptoms pointed to injector stiction so yesterday I drove it to town for oil change supplies and to get it hot. I'd also ordered soe Archoil AR9100 and did the oil change with Rotella 5W-40 synthetic. It seemed fine until I started getting close to home and it was running a little rough even though it was warmed up. Did the oil change and took it for a quick drive and the idle still was rough and it had very little power, completely unlike earlier when I took it to town.

Today I checked the FICM voltages and it checks out. The worst it did was a brief dip to about 45.5 volts but all other voltage measurements were 46.5-47.6, and it usually sat at about 47.3 running.

Now it just runs rough and will die if you let it.

The FICM was replaced a few years ago and IIRC it tested fine voltage-wise but the Ford dealer said it tested bad for them. I don't have a scan tool other than a basic OBD-II code reader and it shows no codes.

It had to have 5 injectors replaced 1-2 years ago but then it was running rough and they were dumping way too much fuel in--you could see it in the exhaust. Can they fail as stuck closed, too?

The old oil was at most 1/2 quart low and didn't smell of diesel fuel. Once the oil was in the pan it didn't smell of fuel, either.

So, do I have some bad injectors? Battery voltages were fine. Is the FICM actually bad again, possibly? We're having a "when it rains, it pours" here with expensive bad luck and can't well-handle another big expense. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Well if you can't handle another big expense, then it is time to slow down, figure out exactly what the issues are and not toss part at it!

What are you using to check the FICM voltages with?

You have a high side voltage and a low side voltage on the FICM. The high side should not dip below 45 V and the low side should not drop below 12.5 at start up. If it is withing a 1/2 volt of those numbers you are ok. If not then there is an issue.

Have you cleaned the EGR valve yet? How is the coolant level? What is the ALT putting out voltage wise under a load?

There are other values that you can monitor to help figure out what is going on, at the moment I am brain dead after dealing with my 3 sons today to remember them at all ...

 

You should consider adding a fuel pressure gauge, have you done the 'blue spring' updated fuel pressure regulator spring?

Low fuel pressure can kill injectors too.

The ficm repair from ed@ficmrepair.com is a better repair than another oem with same weak components.

Have your batteries individually load tested, it is free, just disconnect both negative cables first, they can test 'em where they sit.

Stock Alternator is barely adequate, consider an upgrade.

Good luck and keep us informed

Sent from my Sprint PC36100 using IB AutoGroup

 

Your FICM voltages are on the low side if they are dipping to 45.5, but still within spec. What are the FICM voltage measurements when the motor is stone cold with the key on engine off, during cranking, immediately after it starts, and immediately after it starts at 2,000 rpm?

 

Did my testing with a digital multimeter. Didn't check low side voltage.

I last cleaned the EGR valve 1-2 years ago prior to finding out the injectors were the culprit. EGR valve replaced with a reman. about 3.5 years ago.

Haven't done the blue spring upgrade, but I've read about it.

Alternator was putting out about 13.3V.

Cooant level was a bit low, added about a qt. to get to the minimum level on the overflow tank.

Turbo replaced about 4 years ago.

Ed, thanks for your site and info. You're first on my list if I need a FICM!

KOEO cold (about 86* outside temp.) = 46.2-47.5 over a few trials, usually about 47.1

Cranking = 1st time a VERY BRIEF dip to about 45.5 (so fast that's my best guess on the decimal value), a few other trials 47.3

Right after startup = 47.3

Startup then 2K RPM = 47.1


FYI, I've been wrenching on cars seriously for about 15 years. No motor rebuilds but I've done valve seals on a Jeep 360, LOTS of electrical work, intake gasket on my Explorer's 4.0L, SAS on the front of my Explorer and rear swap (Dana 60/Sterling 10.25"--it's a trailered rock crawler now), modded a '86 Mustang SVO 2.3L turbo, etc. The "deal" with the Excursion from the boss (my wife) is that we leave it alone and just do basic maintenance. Due to the potential for expensive failure any engine-related problem has resulted in it going to the local Ford dealer (which I'm at about an 85% trust level with now). No tuners, etc. We plan on having this thing until it rusts into the ground. I think I'm going to look into the better scan tools, 6.0L-specific tools, and some mods (EGR cooler delete, etc.) more once we have some other things taken care of.

EDIT: Also, on the cold starts today (I never ran it more than about 2 min.), on startup, it runs fine after the initial idle-down for about 5-10 seconds and then it starts running rough. I think that's been constant since the problems started.

 

The very first two things I would do is the batteries - test and fully charge them after all those cold starts - and then the fuel pressure regulator spring. Fuel pressure needs to be above 50 psi at all times, and should be around 60 psi at idle with the upgraded spring kit. Testing is a pain but a diesel shop or the Ford store can do it for you if you don't have a gauge with the correct metric adaptor. And then get the FICM fixed. It's on the way out and they don't get better on their own...

 

Also search bubble test. I would do one.

Sent from my leash using IB AutoGroup

 

You need a little more info since no codes have been set. The engine starts and runs, so that makes troubleshooting easier. Check fuel pressure(can be done with a mechanical gauge). A SGII can help you easily read battery, FICM, EGR, turbo, and HPO data. If that all checks out, an hour with a qualified tech running a contribution/balance test can really help determine the condition of your injectors.

 

Since I don't have a Scangauge or fuel pressure gauge and I work OT every week (as does my wife and we have a 2-year-old!) it's just going to have to go to the shop. Going in today on a tow truck to be safe. I'll update what they tell me.

 

Ford dealer says the fuel pump was going out which then took out injectors 1, 3, 5, and 7. Injector 8 was variable/borderline. The 5 that were replaced about 2 years ago were 2, 4, 5, 6, and 8. Total quote for parts and labor was about $3,100. Can't afford that! Having a friend tow it home tomorrow and I'm going to tackle this myself.

The pump doesn't look like much more work than replacing the filter in the housing. The injectors seem do-able after looking at some write-ups and videos I've watched on YouTube. I'll probably do the blue spring upgrade while I'm at it. I think I'm going to do the 4 bad-for-sure injectors, pump, fuel filters, and blue spring and see how it does. If there's still a stumble I'll replace #8. Sound like a decent plan? My parts cost for this looks like it'll be about $1,500-$1,600 which, while still a lot, is a lot less than the dealer charges. Any tips, tricks, or advice?

I have decided I'll be jumping into the 6.0 diesel world more now. Going to eventually get a scan tool and some gauges to start. Eventually I'll do the EGR and cooler delete, too. One more catastrophic failure after I've learned to do things right and I'll seriously be considering selling the thing, although my wife and I don't want to. Any advice on a ScanGauge II vs. the AutoEnginuity software? The AE looks like it can diagnose far more.

 

Injectors aren't horrible. Watch the videos a few times through and you'll be fine.

If you don't yet have a source on these parts, we'd be happy to take care of you for sometimes MUCH less than you get these parts anywhere else for. If you can buy it from Ford, we carry it! Ditto for (nearly) everything in the aftermarket space.

BTW, we sell both the SGII and the AE tool. The AE tool is far more capable, but of course the SGII is portable.

 

Any news on the website?

Josh

 

Yes. We ended up getting rid of our last guy and hired a new firm. The framework is completely built with full functionality up. Man oh man, is that site FAST.

We are busily adding content and product now. Hopefully it won't be too much longer, but this is an amazingly sore subject for me and a huge lesson learned. I know why many companies just have an in-house web developer now. I may end up going that route eventually.

 

It might be just delaying the inevitable but I'd replace the fuel pump and drive it a little and re-test if there's still an issue. And maybe even polish the spool valves on suspect injectors after that. Not the fastest or easiest plan but definitely most economical.

 

Feel free to come on down I70 a bit to Grain Valley and we can do any diag or service the dealer can. We have a deal we call,, "50 bucks no wrenches". We will show you which injectors actually need replacing and which can wait. I normally have customers watch the screen,,, and they tell ME which ones to replace. Just a thought,, but if you need any quick advice,, feel free to burn us a phone call.